Routes in Icefields

A speleological encounter of the squeeze kind Start: Around the corner from "Raspberry Jam"

Easy crack/face for about 3m then 5m up chimney, the first move once in chimney is the crux if you're over 5'.

Start: At the extreme left end of the Icefield, a large block leans up against the main face providing a low-angled corner crack. Everyone does this one. Up the crack.

Start:Around right of R.J. A thin crack below a small fig tree just left of a clean, slightly diagonal crack. Fantastic !

34m. Up to fig tree and crack above to below a steep wall with a huge jug. Swing out left on jug, then up onto easy slab and on up to tree, belay. Rap off.

Start: 2m right of T.T.L.G., a dirty groove that takes you to a clean, classic crack. Excellent climbing with very good protection.

40m. Up dirty groove for 3m then step right to block. Swing up onto block, then continue up the crack through an overlap, then easier climbing to tree. Belay. Rap off.

A really pleasant pump with good gear Start 6 metres right of "Alpine Wobblygong".

The thin crack in a scoop that leads to a block in the roof.

Up the wall and crack to the horizontal under the roof. Slightly right to the block, grunt up and cruise the wall, trending left to the belay tree. Use first fork rather than base of trunk (easier to pull rope).

Terrific but committing.

Start 3 metres right of "Soapbox Prophet". The steep groove to a corner.

Commit to the balancy start and motor up the corner with occasional good gear to where a smaller, steeper corner breaks left at 20m. Carefully up this to a good 3 1/2 friend pocket and on to the top. Off left to abseil tree, as above.

Bring your "Uncarved Balls" for this little gibberfest. Committing, technically 18 but gets and extra grade for the "gibber factor" (Editor's note: as in gibber and whimper, not as in gibber desert).

Start: Line of pockets up the wall 4m right of "Uncarved Balls", 6m left of the "Legler - Sharpe Route" (I thought it was the "Legless Sharp Route" just goes to show how wrong you can be)

1. 25m Crux - up pockets with fiddly gear to big bucket (#4 Friend). Up, mantle narrow ledge and up wall (being careful of the big pocket with the wasps nest in it) to belay at good friend break and ledge.

2. 25m Doddle up the easy low angle wall (Thanking god its all over) with good gear to belay under large boulders. Walk down right (facing downhill) to same belay tree as "Soapbox Prophet"

Start: A great route in spite of the name. An incipient groove, slightly diagonal from left to right, several metres right of A.W. Often tried in the seventies but Austin won the prize. I love it. The start is difficult to protect. Take lots of wires.

1. 30m. A tricky start, delicate pro, then nice moves up the groove till it ends on a small ledge.

2. 15m. Easy climbing to top.

Start: Approx 10m right of Legler Sharp etc. route. A slab below a large fig tree on a ledge. Originally had one piton for aid, now free. Right and left hand variants have been done also, for the 2nd pitch.

1. 20m. Up the slab to fig tree, then up crack to ledge.

2. 40m. Up the nose of the buttress to a steep wall, across the base and up to ledge. Continue up to the top of the blocks, traverse left across slab (peg used for aid here) Up over nose and up to ledge.

3. 10m. Up crack and wall to top.

Start: Right of I.R. on a block above the next fig tree.

55m. From the top of the block, up to the left of large block at half height and a crack/groove to top.

Start: On top of the same block as for R.H. This one goes right, whereas R.H. goes left.

1. 25m. Up to wall then diagonally right to belay on top of large block.

2. 46m. Down and traverse left 6m then straight up to small wall at top.

Start: The next slabby area right of Trial and Error. This route goes up the lower slabs then goes left.

1. 30m. Up slab to the right of blocks. Then right onto slabs and up wall into corner on the left of large blocks.

2. 30m. Up slabs trending left above the 1st belay ledge.

Start: As for Japanese Bikes, but go right after the 1st pitch. A beginners classic. A great easy double pitch climb.

1. 30m. As for pitch one of J.B.

2. 30m. Up corner and diagonally right, then up slabs to top. What a view!

Start: 17m right of B.B. Start on ledge 6m. up.

1. 25m. Up slabs to corner, traverse right to belay on small tree.

2. 35m. Up corner left of belay, right onto ledge then traverse left to tree, then along ledge and up wall and slab to a dead tree.

Start: 7m right of S. A beginner’s classic.

1. 20m. Up slabs to the right of a large block, to a prominent horizontal crack.

2. 35m. Diagonally up corner/crack to top of large block, left and slightly down for 3m, then up wall to top.

Start: 2m. right of L.R.T.B.M. is a large low- angled slab that goes through an overlap. Named after the very nasty wasps that used to live near the start of the climb. Nice moves through the overlap.

1. 36m. Straight up the slab, through the gap in the overlap, continue up, then move right to a groove and up this to a large ledge.

2. 30m. Straight up wall to top.

Start: Just right of the sting. Not really recommended. The first pitch has no runners on hollow rock!

1. 36m. (crux) Up short corner (on hollow rock and no runners) then step right and straight up to belay ledge as for The Sting.

2. 30m. Straight up wall and slab to top (as for The Sting).

Start: 15m. right of T.S. slabs that lead to a crack.

1. 39m. Up slab and crack to the first major ledge.

2. 21m. Straight up wall to top.

Start: 15m right of F.F. near the right hand end of the cliff. A block that has a crack going up both sides, take the left-hand side side.

15m. Up slick groove and crack on left.

Start: The harder looking of the two cracks, deceptively hard.

15m. Follow the diagonal crack leftwards to join the Left variant at about half height, continue as for the left variant to top.

Unknown domed slab covered in pockets around 3m left of the fence draped over the cliff. Has been top roped decades ago but may not have been led.