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Routes in Reedy Creek

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Showing all 54 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Mosquito Lands Grinch Boulder
V4 You're a Mean One Mr Grinch

The obvious compression line in the middle of the boulder. Stand start with left hand on OK sloper at chest height and right hand on OK slopey edge. Compress your way up and top out.

FA:

Boulder 3m
V5 A Pinch of the Grinch

FA: Karsten

Boulder
V6 Whosville

Crouch start on sloping large side pull. Head left along slopers and mantle out. A powerful sequence.

FA: Felix Binns, 10 May

Boulder 2m
V8 Whosville Extension

Extension to Whosville. Traverse the sloping arete to the top and mantle out.

FA: 10 May

Boulder 4m
Flaky Walls
17 The Pursuit of Happiness

The wall 4m L of OH aim for the vertical groove.

FA: John Golding, 2002

Trad 12m
20 Grim Dusty

The pocketed R-facing corner. A long reach gains the horizontal and a final flurry brings jugs to hand.

FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988

Trad 12m
15 Occupational Hazard

The prominent diagonal.

FA: Gary Jones, Robert Finlay & Mike Ashton, 1979

FFA: Dave Trehearne, Peter Kraehenbuehl & Dave Chenery, 1986

Trad 10m
21 Vanishing Crystals

A micro-route requiring some effort, The short diagonal corner crack R of OH yields to an easy wall and arete

FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988

Trad 9m
22 Beware of the Drone

Crimp and slab your way up an impossible looking wall to a horizontal then finish up the small crack. Surprisingly not that bad rock.

FA: Chad Freak, 12 Jul 2014

Top rope 12m
The Gallery
V3 WTF

Stand start with hands inside vertical crack. Move to the big horizontal edge at half way height then make a massive move to the top.

Boulder 3m
V3 Hot Sexy Punkie

Stand start matched on big hold. Make a big move out right to the large rail before making yet another big move to the sloping arete. Mantle up and top out.

Boulder 3m
V3 Magnum Arete

Stand start on good holds on the arete and climb the arete to the top.

Boulder 3m
V3 Gray Man

Stand start on good side pull Make a move to the arete and climb before making a final move to a blind hold at the top. A nice bail boulder to the right if you need it.

Boulder 3m
V4 Instantaneous Combustion

An instant classic of the area. Sit start with left hand on arete and right hand in crack. Head up through crack and a vertical edge at the top and top out.

Boulder 3m
V1 Buzzing

On the boulder facing you one level below the main waterfall area. Sit-start with low left hand and right-hand on good edge. Move up along the diagonal aréte with feet on the face, right hand to the high-right jug and mantle onto the top slab where things aren't quite over yet.

FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018

Boulder 3m
V2 Hopping

Stand-start onto the face with no hands. Hop up to the final jug of Buzzing and onto the slab above

FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018

Boulder 3m
V1 Baby Cricket

Up the dihedral on the right end of the boulder

FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018

Boulder 4m
V5/6 Le rocher explosif

Start low on the obvious rail. Follow the line of semi-decent (semi-exploding) crimps to the lip. RH Arete is out.

Set: Nick Miguel Ducker, 19 Dec 2016

FA: Felix Binns, 12 May

Boulder 3m
12 Orgasmatron

The zigzag crack LH side of the wall to a gritty exit

FA: Edward Johnstone

FFA: Paul Badenoch & Edward Johnstone, 1999

Trad 7m
17 Meet Me Tonight in Atlantic City

Start in the cave beneath the higher boulder and gain the crack above the cave.

FA: Ryan Rodertson

FFA: Luke Adams & Ryan Rodertson, 1986

Trad 7m
14 Jean A

Start as for MM but head up the corner.

FFA: Mark Pearsons, 1997

Trad 7m
15 Le triomphe de l'homme sur la toilette

The bottomless corner 1m R of Meet Me Tonight then the clean wall just R of Jean A.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Paul Gray, Mark Witham & Chris Oerman, 14 Sep 2019

Trad 7m
16 Slab and Tickle LHF

Start as for Slab and Tickle, but at the botanical ledge at 1/3rd height step left to finish up the lichen-free crack line

FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018

Trad 7m
18 Slab and Tickle

The middle of the mossy Undercut Slab follow up 2m R from the corner

FFA: Nick Neagle, 1994

Trad 7m
11 Eau D'ear

The diagonal small crack on the slab finish up the vertical crack

FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1997

Trad 7m
V1 Main Mantle

Central mantle problem left of the waterfall

FA: 2006

Unknown
V4/5 Bellydancer

Low start under Eau D'ear, with left hand deep in back of the triangular "cutout" visible in topo, and right hand on positive corner just above the undercut. Pull on, adjust left hand and make some bizarre moves to gain the slab, and top out easily as for Eau D'ear. V5 if you start one move back with right hand on side pull edge in the back of the overhang.

FA: Petey Pete & Jordan Grant, 25 Jun 2020

Boulder
20 James E

Another undercut start up to a seam then L to a small corner.

FFA: Mark Pearsons, 1997

Trad 7m
V2 Renegade of Funk

Groove-like feature up face left of Verve boulder (right of stream). Can have water underneath it depending on time of year.

FA: Redanon, 2006

Boulder 4m
V5 Verve

Perfect highball line approx 4m right of the waterfall starting from a good jug in the middle of the face. Take left hand seams to a cruxy top out.

FA: Red2, 8 Jan 2017

Boulder 5m
V3 Bruce

Start low and left of the "roof" (slab). Move up and right, then left and top out the slab.

FA: Andy, 19 Dec 2016

Boulder 4m
V3 Golf Is Not A Sport

Same start as Bruce, except traverse into "The Sport of Golf" and finish up on the slab

FA: Nick Miguel Ducker, 19 Dec 2016

Boulder
V2 The Sport of Golf

Start low in the features, move up onto the rail below the slab and top out the slab.

FA: Nick Miguel Ducker, 19 Dec 2016

Boulder 5m
6 The Gash

The cleft on the L

FFA: Peter Kraehenbuehl, Jim Roberts & Kate Murrie, 1987

Trad 8m
10 Treebeard

The centre crack.

FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979

Trad 8m
13 Art Attack

The grisly offwidth on the R

FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979

Trad 8m
4 All Thunked Out

Around the arete L of WS is a short, wide crack leading to an easy angled ramp corner.

FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979

Trad 9m
21 Whippersnapper

The south facing crack follow the rising diagonal to the steep, thin crack where the fun begins to the ramp top out though ATO

FA: Grant Tode, 1985

FFA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987

Trad 9m
Terror Arête Project

The very high proud standing arete. Climb the arete to the top. Serious highballers apply!

Boulder 10m
V4 Chilean

Situated right next to the Arete Attack project. Sit start with left and on crimpy on arete and right hand on edge. Climb the arete and top out.

FA: Cristobal, 2016

Boulder 3m
Terror Oasis
90 Degrees project

The impressive square arete and diagonal seam, which might or might not be climbable. Needs a bit of cleaning which would require abseiling. Quite high, but a near perfect landing

BoulderProject
V3 The Unfittable

Sit start as layback on the bottom-left block. Head up and right through several fist jams to a good rest, before making your way carefully up the mossy slab

FA: Ben Dickson, 30 Jun 2020

Boulder 4m
V3 Weak and Slappy

One move wonder above terror arete. Lefthand utilises a hold on the arete, right hand small hold on face. Slap for the top.

FA: 2006

Boulder
The Unflappable project

Start on bottom-left layback as per The Unfittable, but head directly up following the seam. Not very hard, maybe around V4, but the crux requires care to avoid getting stuck in the kneebar or falling into the adjacent slab

BoulderProject 3m
Diamond Wall
17 Le Lezard

On the buttress L of Diamond Wall, starting 3m L of ST. Up into the alcove balance R then up and R to the crack. Finish boldly up the face.

FFA: Paul Badenoch & John Golding, 2001

Trad 12m
7 Sic Transit Gloria Fridi

The glory lives on? The chimney on the L side of the diamond.

FFA: Mike Ashton, Robert Findlay & Gary Jones, 1979

Trad 12m
17 Ace of Diamonds

Follow a plumbline up the long axis of the diamond

FA: Gary Jones, 1979

Trad 13m
13 Ace of Diamonds (Piker's Variant)

When 4m up A Girl's Best Friend take the diagonal line L to the crack and arête at the apex of the diamond. Good climbing, adequate protection.

FA: Paul Badenoch & Vicki Kavanagh, 6 Jul 2014

Trad 15m
13 A Girls Best Friend

The diagonal line on the R side of the wall to the ledge under the roof then the rising traverse to ST. Finish up the wall just R of the chimney

FA: Gary Johns & Mike Ashton, 1979

FFA: Nick Neagles & Barry Conoley, 1980

Trad 16m
19 Star Trekking

A wonderfully exposed outing. Above the R end of the roof a diagonal crack runs out L after a hard start follow this airly to where it widens and kinks upwards. Leave it there and climb the neat wall above

FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988

Trad 10m
10 Paddy Melon

the short crack in the middle of the little buttress down R of Diamond Wall. at the ledge, step R and climb the wide crack

FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979

Trad 10m
A Rather Useless Outcrop
8 Outer Limits Trad 7m
Upper Falls
V4 Andy's Slab

Sit start on two decent edges on leaning boulder; head up and slightly left towards more crimps, and large side-pull. Top-out directly above.

FA: Toi Suriyasenee

Boulder 3m
Andy's Slab Stand-Start Extension

Sit-Start on left side arete of boulder on decent side-pull underclings. Gain arete pinch/crimps and traverse into, Andy's Slab, and finish as per line.

Set: Toi/Andy

BoulderProject 4m

Showing all 54 routes.

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