Showing all 54 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mosquito Lands Grinch Boulder | |||||
V4 | You're a Mean One Mr Grinch
The obvious compression line in the middle of the boulder. Stand start with left hand on OK sloper at chest height and right hand on OK slopey edge. Compress your way up and top out. FA: | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ A Pinch of the Grinch
FA: Karsten | ||||
V6 | ★ Whosville
Crouch start on sloping large side pull. Head left along slopers and mantle out. A powerful sequence. FA: Felix Binns, 10 May | 2m | |||
V8 | ★ Whosville Extension
Extension to Whosville. Traverse the sloping arete to the top and mantle out. FA: 10 May | 4m | |||
Flaky Walls | |||||
17 | The Pursuit of Happiness
The wall 4m L of OH aim for the vertical groove. FA: John Golding, 2002 | 12m | |||
20 | Grim Dusty
The pocketed R-facing corner. A long reach gains the horizontal and a final flurry brings jugs to hand. FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988 | 12m | |||
15 | Occupational Hazard
The prominent diagonal. FA: Gary Jones, Robert Finlay & Mike Ashton, 1979 FFA: Dave Trehearne, Peter Kraehenbuehl & Dave Chenery, 1986 | 10m | |||
21 | Vanishing Crystals
A micro-route requiring some effort, The short diagonal corner crack R of OH yields to an easy wall and arete FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988 | 9m | |||
22 | ★ Beware of the Drone
Crimp and slab your way up an impossible looking wall to a horizontal then finish up the small crack. Surprisingly not that bad rock. FA: Chad Freak, 12 Jul 2014 | 12m | |||
The Gallery | |||||
V3 | WTF
Stand start with hands inside vertical crack. Move to the big horizontal edge at half way height then make a massive move to the top. | 3m | |||
V3 | Hot Sexy Punkie
Stand start matched on big hold. Make a big move out right to the large rail before making yet another big move to the sloping arete. Mantle up and top out. | 3m | |||
V3 | Magnum Arete
Stand start on good holds on the arete and climb the arete to the top. | 3m | |||
V3 | Gray Man
Stand start on good side pull Make a move to the arete and climb before making a final move to a blind hold at the top. A nice bail boulder to the right if you need it. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Instantaneous Combustion
An instant classic of the area. Sit start with left hand on arete and right hand in crack. Head up through crack and a vertical edge at the top and top out. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Buzzing
On the boulder facing you one level below the main waterfall area. Sit-start with low left hand and right-hand on good edge. Move up along the diagonal aréte with feet on the face, right hand to the high-right jug and mantle onto the top slab where things aren't quite over yet. FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Hopping
Stand-start onto the face with no hands. Hop up to the final jug of Buzzing and onto the slab above FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Baby Cricket
Up the dihedral on the right end of the boulder FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018 | 4m | |||
V5/6 | ★ Le rocher explosif
Start low on the obvious rail. Follow the line of semi-decent (semi-exploding) crimps to the lip. RH Arete is out. Set: Nick Miguel Ducker, 19 Dec 2016 FA: Felix Binns, 12 May | 3m | |||
12 | Orgasmatron
The zigzag crack LH side of the wall to a gritty exit FA: Edward Johnstone FFA: Paul Badenoch & Edward Johnstone, 1999 | 7m | |||
17 | ★★ Meet Me Tonight in Atlantic City
Start in the cave beneath the higher boulder and gain the crack above the cave. FA: Ryan Rodertson FFA: Luke Adams & Ryan Rodertson, 1986 | 7m | |||
14 | Jean A
Start as for MM but head up the corner. FFA: Mark Pearsons, 1997 | 7m | |||
15 | Le triomphe de l'homme sur la toilette
The bottomless corner 1m R of Meet Me Tonight then the clean wall just R of Jean A. FA: Paul Badenoch, Paul Gray, Mark Witham & Chris Oerman, 14 Sep 2019 | 7m | |||
16 | ★ Slab and Tickle LHF
Start as for Slab and Tickle, but at the botanical ledge at 1/3rd height step left to finish up the lichen-free crack line FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018 | 7m | |||
18 | ★ Slab and Tickle
The middle of the mossy Undercut Slab follow up 2m R from the corner FFA: Nick Neagle, 1994 | 7m | |||
11 | ★ Eau D'ear
The diagonal small crack on the slab finish up the vertical crack FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1997 | 7m | |||
V1 | ★★ Main Mantle
Central mantle problem left of the waterfall FA: 2006 | ||||
V4/5 | ★★ Bellydancer
Low start under Eau D'ear, with left hand deep in back of the triangular "cutout" visible in topo, and right hand on positive corner just above the undercut. Pull on, adjust left hand and make some bizarre moves to gain the slab, and top out easily as for Eau D'ear. V5 if you start one move back with right hand on side pull edge in the back of the overhang. FA: Petey Pete & Jordan Grant, 25 Jun 2020 | ||||
20 | James E
Another undercut start up to a seam then L to a small corner. FFA: Mark Pearsons, 1997 | 7m | |||
V2 | ★ Renegade of Funk
Groove-like feature up face left of Verve boulder (right of stream). Can have water underneath it depending on time of year. FA: Redanon, 2006 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Verve
Perfect highball line approx 4m right of the waterfall starting from a good jug in the middle of the face. Take left hand seams to a cruxy top out. FA: Red2, 8 Jan 2017 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Bruce
Start low and left of the "roof" (slab). Move up and right, then left and top out the slab. FA: Andy, 19 Dec 2016 | 4m | |||
V3 | Golf Is Not A Sport
Same start as Bruce, except traverse into "The Sport of Golf" and finish up on the slab FA: Nick Miguel Ducker, 19 Dec 2016 | ||||
V2 | ★ The Sport of Golf
Start low in the features, move up onto the rail below the slab and top out the slab. FA: Nick Miguel Ducker, 19 Dec 2016 | 5m | |||
6 | The Gash
The cleft on the L FFA: Peter Kraehenbuehl, Jim Roberts & Kate Murrie, 1987 | 8m | |||
10 | Treebeard
The centre crack. FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979 | 8m | |||
13 | Art Attack
The grisly offwidth on the R FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979 | 8m | |||
4 | All Thunked Out
Around the arete L of WS is a short, wide crack leading to an easy angled ramp corner. FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979 | 9m | |||
21 | Whippersnapper
The south facing crack follow the rising diagonal to the steep, thin crack where the fun begins to the ramp top out though ATO FA: Grant Tode, 1985 FFA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987 | 9m | |||
Terror Arête Project
The very high proud standing arete. Climb the arete to the top. Serious highballers apply! | 10m | ||||
V4 | Chilean
Situated right next to the Arete Attack project. Sit start with left and on crimpy on arete and right hand on edge. Climb the arete and top out. FA: Cristobal, 2016 | 3m | |||
Terror Oasis | |||||
90 Degrees project
The impressive square arete and diagonal seam, which might or might not be climbable. Needs a bit of cleaning which would require abseiling. Quite high, but a near perfect landing | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Unfittable
Sit start as layback on the bottom-left block. Head up and right through several fist jams to a good rest, before making your way carefully up the mossy slab FA: Ben Dickson, 30 Jun 2020 | 4m | |||
V3 | Weak and Slappy
One move wonder above terror arete. Lefthand utilises a hold on the arete, right hand small hold on face. Slap for the top. FA: 2006 | ||||
The Unflappable project
Start on bottom-left layback as per The Unfittable, but head directly up following the seam. Not very hard, maybe around V4, but the crux requires care to avoid getting stuck in the kneebar or falling into the adjacent slab | 3m | ||||
Diamond Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Le Lezard
On the buttress L of Diamond Wall, starting 3m L of ST. Up into the alcove balance R then up and R to the crack. Finish boldly up the face. FFA: Paul Badenoch & John Golding, 2001 | 12m | |||
7 | Sic Transit Gloria Fridi
The glory lives on? The chimney on the L side of the diamond. FFA: Mike Ashton, Robert Findlay & Gary Jones, 1979 | 12m | |||
17 | ★★ Ace of Diamonds
Follow a plumbline up the long axis of the diamond FA: Gary Jones, 1979 | 13m | |||
13 | ★ Ace of Diamonds (Piker's Variant)
When 4m up A Girl's Best Friend take the diagonal line L to the crack and arête at the apex of the diamond. Good climbing, adequate protection. FA: Paul Badenoch & Vicki Kavanagh, 6 Jul 2014 | 15m | |||
13 | A Girls Best Friend
The diagonal line on the R side of the wall to the ledge under the roof then the rising traverse to ST. Finish up the wall just R of the chimney FA: Gary Johns & Mike Ashton, 1979 FFA: Nick Neagles & Barry Conoley, 1980 | 16m | |||
19 | Star Trekking
A wonderfully exposed outing. Above the R end of the roof a diagonal crack runs out L after a hard start follow this airly to where it widens and kinks upwards. Leave it there and climb the neat wall above FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988 | 10m | |||
10 | ★ Paddy Melon
the short crack in the middle of the little buttress down R of Diamond Wall. at the ledge, step R and climb the wide crack FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979 | 10m | |||
A Rather Useless Outcrop | |||||
8 | Outer Limits | 7m | |||
Upper Falls | |||||
V4 | ★★ Andy's Slab
Sit start on two decent edges on leaning boulder; head up and slightly left towards more crimps, and large side-pull. Top-out directly above. FA: Toi Suriyasenee | 3m | |||
Andy's Slab Stand-Start Extension
Sit-Start on left side arete of boulder on decent side-pull underclings. Gain arete pinch/crimps and traverse into, Andy's Slab, and finish as per line. Set: Toi/Andy | 4m |
Showing all 54 routes.