Ascents in Central Tablelands by Simon Leo

If you're doing the direct start it might be worth on the abseil down placing a 5 or 4 with a long sling above the now lushly vegetated corner down low as there's not much pro down there and hardest move on the climb scrambling up below it, or could alternatively tie an alpine butterfly in the static rope to use on the way back up. The one bolt below it is an old one but seems solid enough

This is a really enjoyable little route. More solid rock like the Araplactic end of crag and good holds and just enough placements for a few handish sized cams between the bolts. Nice belay ledge at top of route to bring second up and enjoy the view together

This is one of those routes not to confuse easy grading with suitability for beginners. True old school run-out feel and crappy rock (although not as bad as Dream Machine in either aspect). Can protect the belayer with medium-large cams if worried about the drop-off behind

Climbed between TDDUP and Manãna for a change

Worth using some rope pro at top for belaying from above (or extend anchor a long way back towards top of route) and also for small wedge in middle of route (right side of first boulder).

More satisfying jamming for smaller hands and feet than the Obituary, and straightforward cam placements.

Easy TR solo access and would be easy enough to build a ground anchor for lead solo

3 solo laps

Went up this quickly on TR with the rain starting, keen to lead it though. Found a very useful finger jam to pull through the crux

Started right of bolts, between the 2 routes, with crimpy dimple pockets. This is a more evenly graded start than using the big and easy flake at bottom left

1st pitch only, the hand crack not using corner

This is a desperate and dirty climb! Took a lot of cleaning and a lot of broken rock to make it to top, but there's plenty of dirt and fragile choss left for next silly climbers. Top out and top belay aren't ideal but it's the first bulge that is shoddiest in terms of protection and rock quality. And then the top crack would be decent if it wasn't full of dirt and the feet are mostly non existent so nice and pumpy. Not sure where the star came from because there aren't any ascents recorded since 1980 🤣

This is more fun than it looks. More technical and less pumpy than other low grade routes at crag. Interesting mix of crimps and slopers and side pulls

Thought it was the 15 lol but the bulk of the route probably is around 15 with a cruxy start. Horrible rope drag is what makes it hard further up haha, definitely worth being thoughtful about what draws you place early on

Would be fun mixed climb. Not sure if you're meant to use lower crack, I went direct up slab which is a little harder but still soft for grade

There aren't any carrots, they're on Horn Dog

Nice start with flake holds and good holds at top. Just a few slopey crimpy holds in middle but soft for 18. It's worth brushing off dry moss because there are sometimes holds underneath!

Seriously you don't need to run it out, easily protected

I didn't expect there to be much to this after the first bulge but there are some good moves in the middle too, worthy of a soft 18

It's a fun climb but a little spicy to lead with plenty of potential for breaking holds (as with most of the crag) and probably not most comfortable landings. My partner pulled down a decent sized chunk onto his foot on top rope. It's easy enough for belayer to stand out of the way. Worth having a few longer draws or slings to reduce rope drag

Very enjoyable. Similar to Burger Boys at Sunbath, if you follow the line of bolts precisely you'll discover more interesting moves without juggy distractions

I do love this climb, definitely gotta do the direct route though to fully appreciate it, straight up through the tiny pinches and crimps rather than too far left. I would say this is on easier side of 19 compared to something like Poultry in Motion, and 17/18 if you're going left