Routes in Central Tablelands

start on vertical section of slab-wall use cave for feet as you get up

Start in jug hole and go up. Topout

Disrespect the disrespectful. Starts just left of FoS. Up thin face, wild move across roof on incredible jugs and then face climb to glory. Fantastic rock the whole way.

Steep, Hard, bloody awesome 4 metres right of Who'd be a cop project. Very hard climbing thru steep territory, many a strong lad had a crack before Chris got the tick.

Off the ledge.

Expeditionary undertaking. Classic Ewbank no doubt. Obvious crack in yellow and black wall capped by large roofs on SW facing cliff below Fortress Ridge. Visible from Evans Lookout.

Leave car on Mount Hay Rd and walk along 4wd track on to Fortress Ridge. At end of track head WSW along prominent subsidiary ridge. Upon reaching cliffs, head S around small upper cliffline and down bushy ramp. 3 long abseils on double ropes to reach a big ledge. Scramble L along ledge and down bushy gully to short abseil at bottom.

Start: Walk NW 300m to base of route.

1. 18m (16) Black crack to small bushy ledge.

2. 24m (19) Up over 2 ledges, then corner-crack to grassy ledge.

3. 20m (18) Belay under small overhang on R. Corner to ledge. (good bivy site?)

4. 30m (21) Crux. Cracks, then major crackling to foot ledge on L, below small roof.(#1.5 cam, wires).

5. 15m (19) Crack to shale ledge on right. (Cams 3m above ledge.)

6. 15m (21) Equal crux. Overhanging crack to large slot. Bolt belay.

7. 25m (18) Crawl 3m R, then left up wall to corner and roof. Now left to aerate and crack above to ledge.(Poor pro).

8. 20m (12) Crack, and corner to tree.

9. 50m (12) Up to black slabs, and up.

Start as for BSABG, but is the right line.

Up the boulder seam through a mini roof then classic and sustained steep wall climbing to a tricky finale.

Up the beautiful hand crack corner then easily to thread and piton belay.

Soon to be bolted.

Flake 4m L of Loddle, then R diagonal crack

Start below the tree. First pitch (15) is 40m with 7 bolts. Runout to 2 rusty bolts right by each other not far from the tree, and then 5 above the tree. A 2 bolt belay leads into the 2nd 20m pitch (17) with 4 bolts and a 2.5 friend. The bolts are not all easy to spot. Chains and ring on ledge.

Cliff splitter!! Gear up accordingly.

One meter left of old pumpy, fun features and some cool moves

Low sit-start half under roof and an edge on the face. Thuggy move leads to the start of the stand. Top out's the same

Start: On right of SB# ledge.

Desperate overhanging start then up easier slab past 2 rusty carrots.

Belay off immovable blocks 5m back with directional rusty carrot near edge (on left facing out).

Up left sided flake and up juggy face

#Historical Topo notional, route not confirmed.

BA describes a different climb to Owen, from which the description below is taken.

Start: At bottom of Devils Hole track, go left (facing cliff) just past left arete, up gully, and onto to huge block on ledge. Belay behind block as original "bush and piton belay" are no more.

1. (17m) Arete, left onto corner. Back to arete and up to tree.

2. (20m) Corner and left to tree.

3. (16m) Groove/chimney to tree.

4. (33m) Walk left to red corner (tree).

5. (10m) Up corner.

6. (40m) Walk left and up gully to overhangs.

7. (23m) Right and up to ledge, across corner to ledge (tree).

Scramble right, up arete, and down to Devils Hole path near chockstone overhanging track.

The route to do here if you have to! Take care!

Start: Right of 'Caterpillar Girl'. Below the big red roof. 10m above the track. To freedom.

Obvious line left of The Industrial Revolution.

Longer line of ring bolts, 4m right of arete, facing in. DRBB at top.

A great pit-link of Ebola Noodles to the big undercling flake then pump right into a hard clip on North By Northwest and continue up this into a crimpy headwall.

Easier 3rd pitch than weaselberger,

Cross the creek at lower level. DRB at the top. This and the next route have a lower off at the top.

Start: Step over creek and up crack/boulder feature then up the face above to the lower off.

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

Cruxy to gain the roof. Then heel hooking heaven.

A tad scary

Flakes and smears to mantle top out

There's a few different ways to go. Good warm up... Starts in the corner next to tree, then up and slightly left, shares anchor with Banana Man. For Safety, clip the 4th bolt from high jug before traversing left

1m right again. The first bolt has gone walkabout.

The line of ring bolts in between St. Andrews Cross and Melancholic that heads up and diagonally right through many ticked and bad looking holds. Might be a project?

Classic! Rebolted with RB's 2017. Bring a medium wire if you want to stitch the last few meters. Creative slabbing start veering right , through crux at bulge then easy into corner and DRB lower-off.

Big move off undercling down low and huck to monster jug rail. Past hole to right side of rooflet. Up on edges to ledge and final wall to top out. Dynamic climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

Short face to slab and corner, left to anchors

Short corner left end of black slab.

1. 25m corner to overhang, left to BR and up to DBB.

2. 20m up to rap point.

Start as per Milo but continue up to the tree and onto the face behind it.

Just right of tree on ledge, up hard face onto slab to anchors

Start on Like'n Lichen and traverse obvious high sloper line out to the right. Tops out at good rail. Continuation out right is still un'scent.

30m from the carpark - arete on the right wall, tending right to a vegetated ledge

8m right of BR, up crack to ledge then up the shallow corner. Originally done in two pitches

http://sydneyclimbing.com/Mt+Banks.html

Fine sustained wall climbing in the middle of the wall. Climbs much better than it looks. Link the two pitches together for a big sport route.

1. 20m (21) Carrots, then a couple of rings, then 7+ glue-in carrots to small ledge and rap anchor. Quite thin in places. Lower-off, or...

2. 12m (21) Continue up steeper wall above on pumpy little flats. It's exactly 30m to the ground from the top anchors.

Start: 20m right of AR.

1. 25m Up to ledge.

2. 25m Up to top.

100 meters west of Beche de Merle is a 90 meter pillar with a steep crack and chimney line on its left hand side. Start from high terrace, small cairn marks the start. Great climbing if you enjoy adventurous trad. Climb carefully - there is some soft rock, but protection is good where you need it. Pitches 5, 6 & 7 have bolts with fixed hangers.

Suggested rack: 1 set aliens or similar tiny cams, black diamond 2 x 0.3 to 1, 3 x 2 to 4, 1 x 5, 1 set of wires, 1 x red offset wire for pitch 5, lots of long slings.

P1, 15 meters, (20) Start at rightwards arching flake which is 1.5m right of a corner and 10m left of the fall line of the main crack system. Climb arching flake to ledge, walk right to belay. A #6 cam is handy to protect the first two meters, but you're not likely to place it anywhere else on the route.

P2, 30 meters, (20) Twin cracks to small overlap, step right, crack steepens, jamb and stem for 8m, crack widens, be careful of the big block, wide crack up to roof, move left to semi-hanging belay on cams (4, 5 & 0.5) in horizontal breaks.

P3, 30 meters, (17) Enjoyable wall and chimney, protected by spaced cams in horizontal breaks. Comfortable belay stance, large cams at shoulder height also a fixed 5m thread (rap anchor) at foot level.

P4, 40 meters, (18) Chimney, good climbing, some soft rock, protection via cams in horizontal breaks. When you reach the shale, move into the chimney, over large boulders and up to very top of the pillar on shale. Belay off 2 rings above you on the headwall.

P5, 30 meters, (21) Place gear and then commit to a big step into the thin corner for 8 metres, bomber small gear and crucial red offset. At the roof, step left to a bolt, then commit to a move on the arete and get prepared for a bowl quivering exposed traverse left for 5 more bolts to belay on edge of grey wall. 2 rings for belay.

P6, 30 meters, (21) Diagonally right across grey wall to shallow left facing corner, small cams, further right to bolt then up and right again to hanging arête, up past 4 bolts to ledge. Belay on 2 fixed hangers.

P7, 25 meters, (21) Straight up the orange and grey vertical wall protected by cams in horizontals and wires in unique slots and 3 bolts. Pumpy but lots of rests. Easy top out then walk up the slope 10m to 2 rings at your feet.

Line of bolts up a steep orange nose.

Right of the two lines. A useful warm up for the main event in the amphitheatre, where flash pumps will ruin your effort for getting here. Climb up juggy wall on bolts steepening at the anchors. Spaced bolting and not well cleaned - take care..

First of the steep roof routes about 5m right of the vertical orange wall. Maybe 27? Bolted by C. Coghill along with angiotensin, just prior to discovering Egg and Farside so he never returned to free them. Freed 13 years later. Needs a bolt shuffle after roof boulder.

Sloping polished footholds and delicate

Just around corner up steep territory tending left following bolts to anchors

Shorter version of HOC starting closer to left hand side prow on first big holds

Face 10m left of Mystery Corner. Rock quality is a bit crap and it needs a brush. There are five old hangerless carrot bolts - one that has a bail biner fixed to it. Start up short corner crack (trad) then through small bulge (first bolt) and up face above past numerous bolts and some bomber medium/large cam slots. Double BRs on top but no way of walking off.

Start below and left of white lichen, throw for the jug and easy to top.

Start left of arête, up crack to tree. Then left side of arête. BRs and cams.

Crack line splitting the centre of this overhung orange wall. Probably the only line that can go on this wall starting from the ground. Rack - doubles of cams from tips finger size (sub 0.3) to #2 Camalot and single cams of 3, 4 and vital #5. A single set of wires and several long trad runners are also useful. Lastly a narrow bit of untied cord for an important thread near top of pitch 3. Best to bring two ropes - one 60m to fix from tree at top for easy descent - and one rope to lead on. All belays are bolted and on comfy ledges. Leave the #5 Cam on the bolt belay at end of pitch 2 unless you like weight training.

1. 18m (21) Striking left facing finger crack corner. Easier than it looks unless you have jumbo sized fingers. Finish through very steep hanging prow to big ledge (double bolt belay)

2. 13m (20) Undercut major flake feature. Fill the base with big cams and venture upwards! Double bolt belay on small ledge.

3. 25m (22) Traverse right from belay (bolt) for a couple of metres, up, then back left to 2nd bolt. Monkey through steepness above on giant holds (bolt) then vital #0.4 cam in small slot and right to short flake with air to spare. One more bolt, then lob the giant cam in horizontal before traversing left into slabby corner finish. Keep an eye out for thread behind small rock pillar when you can't find any gear and get scared. Bolt right at top to protect icky topout to tree belay.

The route right of Angiotension. Good steep sustained climbing with a dynamic finish. New crux beta = new grade. Gifted to Gary from HK.

Runout - has about half the bolts of nearby routes! Lucky the bolts protect the hard stuff. Top half is a bit loose and scary.

The next three routes share the same start 4m right of Sport Unknown2 at undercut shale bulge that can be avoided by stemming up the tree (it also makes the first bolt clip possible). This goes straight up grey wall on good quality glue in carrots. There appears to be no lower-off anchors - top out to tree belay.

Carrots visible on orange wall up high. Not sure where this starts. If you know more info please add it!

Sit start, up left then sidepull and pop to the top

Start two finger left under cling/side pull, two finger right gaston. Shares one hold (right hand) with Thin Times half way up.

Start: up levitation then move leftwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

Corner and arête.

This route links the start of Ernest in Africa into the top of Chase the Lady. High first bolt, can be accessed along the ledge from Madge.

Wide flake and fist crack. Single sideways ring anchor in block at top.

Short, easy slab a few metres left of Kedumba Sisters. 4 ring bolts swing around towards arete then back right to 2 RB lower-off.

Unknown setter and first ascensionist. Suggested name: Megalong Goodhas ('children' in Gundungurra)

Lower off after slab

Stand start with a bit of technical footwork up to the start of "Avian Flew" after which you can enjoy an easy mantle. Requires plenty of brushing, chalk, and patience!

Climbing the bloc/fridge feature on the underside of Gravel Rash. Will be a compression special

The old Giles project. Was partially bolted with a dozen dodgy doggers for 20 years - has now been revamped and direct start added (instead of starting up Fart Flusher - although there are still a few extra RBs to let you do this link if you like).

Originally done with a stickclip and short batman past greenery but has now been freed from the ground, same grade. Three bolts up punchy start to ledge, then swing up right then back left steeply on pretty amazing holds and position.

Start matched on a corner block just left of the blunt arete and move up through some compression crimps.

start left bathang finish bottom hold