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Smokestack

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 58

Seasonality

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Description

Largish twin boulders behind Razoback offering a number of quite fine chimney problems.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Routes

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Grade Route

Start as for Crumpet of the South 1/2 climbing left to finish as for Crumpeteer.

Start EC side of Smokestack low shelf far left climbing via a low right traverse to finish via Crumpet of the South 1.

Climb as for Crumpe' finishing as for Southern Crumpet #2.

Set out on Real Crumpet returning via Crumpeteer.

Climb as for Real Crumpeteer finishing via Bar Mat.

Climb as for Real Crumpeteer exiting via Ramp Tramp.

Start on low shelf just left of Ramp Tramp traversing right to finish on arete left side of chimney.

Establish yourself left of chimney and reverse Southern Crumpet finishing matched on the wide highish crimp.

Climb as for Crumpet of the South 1 finishing at the starting holds for Southern Crumpet 2 being sure to match the highish central crimp before going for the arete.

Linking section. Climb Crumpet of the South #2, reverse back via the entirety of Crumpeteer and back to starting position via Half Crumpeteer Right.

Start in centre of chimney moving East to finish as for Crepe.

Climb Crumpet of the South pausing for three on the crimp before reversing back as for Southern Crumpet 1.

Climb as for Crumpet of the South 2 pausing for three at the arete then reverse back via Southern Crumpet 2.

East chimney exiting direct/left of the chockstone.

Start in the middle of the chimney directly under the chockstone moving East to finish via CEL.

Start on outer aspect West chimney move East to finish via CEL.

East side of chimney exiting right of the chockstone via the slab.

Start in middle of chimney directly under chockstone moving East to finish via CER.

Start on outer aspect West chimney move East to finish via CER.

Path of least resistance up Dead Edges wall via the bluntish arete right side of chimney, technical & fraction morpho.

Sit start to Dead' Arete from low rail/crimp centre of Dead Edges wall.

Start matched on the highish wide horizontal crimp of Dead Edges wall traversing left until established on slab/arete left of the chimney.

From the crimps/lower rail.

As for Southern Crumpet #1 starting a move back with left hand on the horizontal crimp and right hand on arete.

From crimps/low rail, contrived.

Complete Southern Crumpet #2 twice linked via the lap of Crumpet of the South.

From crimps/low rail.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 continuing the traverse to the far left low shelf.

Sit start and climb Crumpeteer from crimps/low rail.

Start as for Crumpeteer finishing via Bar Mat.

Climb Sit the Crumpeteer and finish via The Real Crumpeteer (no picnics on shelf, plenty of rests elsewhere!)

Climb as for Sothern Crumpet #1 finishing via CER.

Start as for Souther Crumpet #1 finishing via CEL.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing via CER.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing via CEL.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #1 finishing via CEW.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing via CEW.

Climbs as for SC1CEW eliminating the semi-detached block on the left.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing as for Attack of the Field Mouse.

FA: Anthony Alexander, 2002

Start as for Crumpeteer and finish via Ramp Tramp.

Chimney on Western aspect of Smokestack.

Start in the middle of the chimney directly under the chockstone moving out to finish via the West chimney (CW).

As for CWI eliminating the semi-detached block on the left.

Start on outer East aspect of chimney move all the way through to other side finishing via CW.

As for CEW eliminating the semi-detached block on the left.

Establish yourself on the left wall of Western Chimney (right wall and chockstone out) moving left via nice move into Pub Lunch and up its quite mossy slab taking care with the potentially awkward landing.

Eliminate problem starting as for CWI and finishing via CWLE-PL with the semi-detached block on left as you exit the chimney out.

Climbs Worm starting from outer aspect of Eastern Chimney.

Crimpy & technical problem centre right of the steep slab, not a perfect landing.

Start four points of contact left side of West chimney traversing right into and up Schooie (stay off the lowest part of shelf).

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Tue 30 May
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