Routes as sport in Central Coast

Obvious line up middle of left wall to DRB. Thin start but getting easier with height. 5 BRs.

2m right of SS/P. Around small bulge and then straight up easy ground to DRB lower offs. Well protected with 5 BRs, although 2nd clip can be a bit stressful.

Through the rings passing right of the 'window'. Apparently a hold has broken around the 3 rd bolt in 2012 making this a little harder and landing the victim with a T 10 #

Original line bolted ground up, easier line moving slightly right to lower off under roof.

First line of bolts inside the cave. Climb to the ledge then lean back to the small roof and follow right to anchors. Alt start also known as Spider Pig

This is the far southern end of the crag. Initialled AH. Up left of cave and flake past 4 RBs to new lower offs. Rebolted by Vanessa Wills 2010

Up 'Lobster', Diagonally right then through roof flake to lower off.

Line of carrots to the right of Mr. Window

Easily up wall to tough move below roof.

2m right of WIJALB at huge pocket. 1. Even looks like a great route! 6 BRs.

On left side of arete. Stem up the dihedral to start then follow arete to top. 4 BRs to DRB lower off.

Through the overhang on the left and up the face. Single ring as anchor or top out and walk back down

Right most climb on the wall. Through the rings then head right at the top to join the anchors for Master Window

At slightly higher level at right side of bowl. Up past 2 carrots and a large angophora tree to DRBB

Start as for SS. Nice moves make a classic face climb at the grade. 6 BRs.

Left most climb on the wall. Pass the flake clipping carrots and one ring

The route 4m L of BBB. Great positions up the inviting crack. Starts from down on the lower level, left of the boulder. Up the easy initial lower section, then onto the wall heading L to the crack. Goods moves and a couple of classic jams along the way. Veer right at end to loweroffs. Retro ring bolted 2012.

Starts at right side of large cave pass 5 RBs, veering right at end to shared anchors with Rapunzel

The black streak 2 metres left of arete. Straight up for 2 or 3 bolts then diagonally left to double ring bolt anchor. Sustained and good fun

Carrot bolts

Slopey underclinging. Same start as 'Lobster' for the first 2 bolts then trend left onto 3 bolts to finish at 'Second Cave Carrots' anchors.

Last line on the slabs before the arete. Arete is not in.

Follow (6) carrots through slopey goodness

Start up BJ linking into WBF stepping left under roof and head up the amazing airey arete.

Just L of F&B is a stunning black wall. Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right

Hex bolts to lower off outside cave.

Mother's Buttress area is to the south of the main descent gully.

The arete at the very base of the gully. Straight up on jugs.

WARNING: This climb has an overgrown/invisible carrot DBB at the top. You can risk losing gear and/or getting stuck.

To finish you can either:

• Climb out and over the roof of the cave and walk off (this is the safest option; anchor yourself to tree and bring second up to clean the route).
• From the cave, walk down the ramp of Mother's Choice (not recommended).
• Double BB's in the floor of the cave. You can either rap off a tree and into the cave at the end of your session to clean anchors, or if you need to abandon route and grab gear later.

Up the nice orange/red rock moving leftward at the 3rd bolt. Then cast off left from good block to slopey crimpers and reachy moves, to get across to 4th bolt. Trend up and left to get stood up via little footers. Great technical climbing, that is well protected.

The main arete you come to from the walking trail. P1 20 m Up the slab/arete to chains with disabled quick link. Leave fixed black locking carabiner. P2, contine up through the small roof to top out, anchors back a few metres from edge.

The route left of the corner chimney. Hard start to move right up scoops to ledge then off ledge to anchors. Be wary of wasps that sometimes nest in the scoops. Monty can be top roped from the anchors if you don't have trad gear.usually dry in rain.

2m right. Up the orange streak on carrots

Start as for SM. Straight up left side of obvious large bulging block. 3 RBs (last needs long runner) to double BB.

A delightful stroll up the centre of the wall 3 metres left of the cave climb. High first bolt appears high but is easier then it looks. Fun climb. This route shares a double ring bolt lower off with George's Daughter.

6m right of G. Up easy slab. 2BRs to double BB.

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.

The right side of the steep wall. Up face/slab past 2 bolts to slopey moves to get onto head wall.

Up slab on left side of arête. 4 carrot bolts along route, CARROTS FOR ANCHORS

4m right of arete. Straight up. A little runout.

This route is located in-between HIL and BJ and heads straight up. Stick clipping the first clip is recommended as the holds right bellow are often damp. Extend draws number 3 & 4; 7 & 8. Classic!

Starts directly below left end of cave 3. Up past a chipped undercling and a few more chipped holds to slopey mantle into cave. Straight up rim of cave and hard move past bolt to finish.

Megaclassic through steep juggy ground. Back to ground level, about 20m L of 666 The Beast 66, on the left wall of a small corner. Steep, airy and scary. Retrobolted 2020 (from 9 carrots to 19 Ubolts including the 2 sets of anchors). Can be done in one pitch with a sling extender or so.

1. 10m (16) Up thin crack to Ubolt belay (3 bolts)

2. 25m (20) Crux at the bottom. Trending R and up overhung arete and wall above. Lower off, or Ubolt belay over top (10 bolts)

4m left of V. Juggy. Up wall and slab to finish. Traverse right 3m to DRB lower offs as for V.

At obvious tree stump. Centre line up block and over bulges. Shares bolts with M

The first line at the extreme R end of the crag. The short arete - a hard start, then easy past another bolt to a single ring lower off.

Start where there is a step up in the cliff through overlap. Go direct ( snakes inhabit pockets to left) through roof then traverse left to quick links.

Start on the face left of the block. Out roof then traverse left to anchors on Roast Lobster.

Start on the featured bulge in in the top cave.

4m right of CA. Up to the left, behind tree. 4 BRs.

Obvious centre crack or weakness up centre of wall. 4BR, DBB (CARROTS FOR ANCHORS)

As for 'Texas', up 3 bolts to ledge, then traverse right 2 metres, clip RB then very cruxy move, up through roof and step right to anchors. All RBs. If you are in trouble at the crux a bolt plate on an old carrot and a spare draw will let you aid

3m right of F. Hard start then eases off. 2 BRs to double BB.

Right of the obvious, wide, overhanging chimney. Up steep wall and overhanging chimney. Recently retrobolted with 3 large RBs & double BB

Down left below blunt arete. Up around bulge and up final dirty ramp / slab. 3 RBs to double BB.

Start Woodface as above. Instead of trending L after the flake crooooze straight up the arete to join original route. Ross Linsley had inadvertently climbed this arete assuming it was Woodface natural line. Same anchors as for Woodface and 'Hang Ten'.

Tricky move to first carrot just left of low roof and up left of nose following groove and line of carrots

1.5 left of WNW. Veer left then straight up. A little over protected with 7 BRs. This climb seems to have been retro-bolted with the appearance of several very large ring bolts. The original bolts have not been removed.

Start at white square 2m L of BLSB. CLip first RB from ledge then up, or return to ground for more value. Hard moves from pocket to flake then push on to ledge, anchors on wall above. Retro-ring bolted 2011.

Starts off block beneath a flake 2 metres left of Flash Me. Straight up past flake and a balancy undercling move out left a bit. Then tending right and finishing left of overhanging block at the same anchors as Flash Me. Sustained classic Paul riviere

Bouldery start up to the labial feature,then straight up to the same anchors as BP

A bit contrived - try not to use any holds of Absolute Honey. Direct to first ring shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared anchors with 'Sniffing Dogs'

Climbs the face just right of the steep wall. Up slab trending right at halfway then delicatly up the steepening wall to top.

Start up corner at the right end of Kit Kat wall to ledge of cave, then left up slab to top. 2BR, DBB (CARROTS FOR ANCHORS)

3m right of J. Another a little gem! Thin slab then over bulge. 3 BRs to single RB.

Starting in the corner left of Green slugs. Up wall to lower off under roof. P2, continue up wall to the right to top out.

Straight up wall to obvious quick links

Start 3m left of HNIT, up slab then run it out through easy ground to the belay. 3 carrots, DBB.

Up slopes to undercling, then hard move to gain upper section of cave. Move left on slopey ledge to exciting sitting finish.Starts just after the first pinch gap on the low bolt. Back jump to clean.

Starts above the graffiti to the right of bulge. Jug haul with a cool dyno in the middle

First carrot climb on the left.

3m left of TLG. Up nice slab. 3 BRs to double BB. This line was drilled minimally by Grant Severn immediately before the appearance of the final line.

A few metres left of Golden Shower is a diagonal ramp. Follow this trending R and then traverse further R to a short corner. Up the rings to rap anchor. Retro ring bolted 2014.

1m right of CH

Initialled BJ. Fully rebolted and do as one pitch. Starts 3m L of HIL. Up the little slab to horizontal then up over small roof to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeehaa. Reach out blindly to clip fixed hanger, now swing on out and up trending R. To easy but airy ground to belay off tree in cave. Retrobolted 2012 Anchors are back behind block.

Starting low down, climb up over easy ironstone jugs to massive break. Step right to get around choss, then onto little headwall (crux) and up another metre to lower-offs

The left of two obvious vertical orange streaks up superb rock. Hard moves down low then eases after 2nd ring. 1 bolt runner and the rest ring-bolted. Lower offs. Retro ring bolted 2013.

Start in the corner on the right hand side of cave (shared start with Gonzo). Hard start to a pumpy traverse left. Shared anchors with Farout

1m right of DDC

The left side of the arete to LGS. Climbs quite differently, then share final 2 bolts to anchor of MOL

This climb starts and finishes beneath the left end of the overhanging block. Climb the vague bulge (bolt) onto a sloping ledge and a balancy clip. Continue diagonally right and up past crux, then back left below the block to anchors. One of the best on the coast. Paul riviere

Just left at the top of the hill. 3 RB to Double RB lower-off. Caution: One of the lower off RB's is only half in the rock

Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBTW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing rings, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBTW to same finish Originally done with cams now fully ring bolted.

4m right of O. They needed a lot of cleaning to unearth this one. Up through suspect rock passing 5 BRs (2012 - this route looks clean and appealing). Single carrot for anchor.

Start 4m left of large off width chimney, veering right to underside of roof and exit left. 4BR, DBB (CARROTS FOR ANCHORS)

Starts 15m L of the corner at the right end of the slabs. The short open book corner with a u bolt at 3m.

1. 15m (21) Up the short crack and onto slab. Belay at the tree below the arete. 17, 19, or 21 depending on height!

2. 15m (20) From tree head up 1m right of arete on flakes. You can belay from the cave or continue thru to the top. Anchors are on top and require long slings, easy to collect on walk out. 30m to ground.

Slabby blunt arete. Nice little climb. 2 BRs to single RB.

Straight up to lower offs

3m left of W. Straight up wall and slab above, traverse right to belay as for V / W. 3 BRs.

Beautiful open face climbing. Equipped with U-bolts in 2011 by Paul Riv.

1. 35m (20) Start 4m L of WBF. Bumble up 4m to start up the line of ring bolts. Now up flake then trend L. Just above this traverse R to blunt arete. Cruise up trending L to top. Fixed anchors.

2. 5m (20) Up rounded arete and crack to top.

4m right of TLG. Wandery and brittle, take care. Veer right toward arete then up left to belay. 3 BRs to double BB.

Balancy start. Avoid the left-hand flake in the cave finish. Lower off

2m left of M. Up passing 4 BRs. A #3.5 friend keeps the rope out of the way to start.

Starts at the far left of the top cave. Lean out and grab the ledge then traverse for 3 bolts and head straight up to anchors. Tree start has largely disappeared.

Bouldery start to right of chimney then after 2nd bolt step left onto face and traverse up and left to anchors

On small boulder in centre of wall. Up centre of wall, fingery holds with a few good jugs lower down. 3 BRs to double BB.

Start: 3m L of Ring Leader. Trends R up the weakness L of RL with a funky move to get to the anchors. Looks easy with some fun at the end. Easy tick for the grade.

Up the top of the hill and about 20m to the right