Routes as sport in Mid North Coast

In the middle of the wall, great climb for beginners, up the wall past nicely spaced bolts to a lower off in the groove down right of the tree.

Climbs Black Arete on left of wall. Fun pockets at start then edges up high. Direct start from ground or traverse in from ledge

4m right of WTPGHH. Through the large scoop, six CARROT BOLTS to chains at back of large scoop at top. The position of these chains means the rope is running over an edge for the lower off but the chains at WTPGHH can be used as an alternative. Apparently this was set up as a trainer for lead climbing.

Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof.

A juggy roof that is way easier than it looks from the ground. 3 bolt slab with pockets to ledge, take a breather and then campus into the roof on massive jugs and up through more steep terrain to a lower off below small tree.

Up the Beautiful yellow wall past 4 bolts. Rebolted MAY 18

Up featured wall 5m left of andy goodvibes

Right of TRL. Classic, technical climbing through big pockets. 3 bolts to lower off.

Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout.

Perfect on a hot sunny day. Up the wall just right of (and perpendicular to) ROOM WITH A VIEW. 3 bolts. Beautiful!

A tribute. Great moves all the way up the wall. Tops out to anchors just above lip for full value! REBOLTED FEB 14

Start as for HOC or there is an optional direct start. Up wall to mantle ledge and anchor under roof.

This climb is on a tier below the main cliff, about 30m below 'Don't Chew The Fat'. A nice, orange slab leading to a 2.5m roof. 2 bolts on the slab and then 2 bolts in the roof. 2 bolt belay.

Follow 2 fixed hangers and then through overlap up to top. The anchors are set quite far back at the top.

The obvious roof just right of the approach trail. 4 BR's and a small cam down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees. Was originally graded 22 (in the days when climbing roofs was a new thing).

Start as for FSA then veer right and up thin slab to anchors on ledge

A fantastic slab with a great little crux roof. The orange streak about 15m right of 'Corky's crack'. Up pockets on orange section, then crux move onto the gray slab with progressively better moves to the top.

The black wall right of STEAMER.

Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings.

Start under obvious pocket. Up Past 2 original fixed hangers then straight up steep wall past 3 RB's to anchor.

Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top.

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Straight up middle of white wall. Fun moves on great stone.

Just right of DECEIVING DECISIONS. Up short wall, thin moves to top, 3 carrot bolts.

1m right of PGP. 2 bolts and a fixed hanger, finish as per TM.

3 bolts, finish as per CRTB

The amazing looking, yellow, honey-comb roof 15m left of Super Grover. Up wall and then crank out the 3-4m horizontal roof on jugs and pockets to finish on holds over the lip. Anchor has permadraws on it to make cleaning a little easier

Climb the carrots on the white streak, the rock is better than you think it might be. 2 fixed hangers at the top.

wall just left of offwidth

2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you.

Great little short wall, out of the sun. Good small holds, pumpy. 2 bolts and a cam.

3m right of Stranger in a Strange Land and just right of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts.

From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger

3 hangers to chain

Start just left of the white streak. Follow the carrots which stay to the left of the white streaks over an overlap to the top where there are 2 fixed hangers.

Hard start off ledge then up past scoop and steepening finish. Shares Anchors with FF.

Start on left side of steep orange face. Up Moist Crack then head rightish and up face past 4 bolts to tree anchor.

Same start as Mind Warp. Up the crack and then head right past two bolts and optional trad gear to chain.

This is the first line on the left of the slab on fixed hangers. Up slab past square cut roof, follow bolts to a hard move near to a rusty coach bolt and 2 closely spaced fixed hangers. From here it is run out all the way to the anchors.

The first good piece of rock on the cliff line and possibly the closest sandstone route to Coffs?? Climb arête past 2 bolts. Most people think this route is harder than 19 but Artie refuses to give such a short route a harder grade. Let's call it 'stout'.

left wall on the face. Tricky start

The first climb to the right of the descent gully. Just left of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts to the top.

Start at yellow paw print on wall at knee height. 1m right of PGADITHP, 2 bolts to rings.

A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route.

15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers.

Follow 3 carrots to overlap, continue up to second overlap and then on to the top where there are 2 fixed hangers.

Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section.

2m right of Barn Storming. 3 bolts.

This route and the next half dozen are located around the "Shower Recess" (an obvious, square alcove).

5m left of the "Shower Recess". Tricky off the ground. Up through bulge past a bolt to an overhanging wall finish. 3 bolts and a 2 bolt belay.

Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011

Direct start to Happy Lama.

The first bolted route in the Coffs area! Start at the arete next to SANDMAN. Clip the first two bolts then move onto the face, 2 more bolts and a steep little wall to finish. Bolts can be supplemented with gear if required. Belay from a tree about 10m back from the cliff.

The right side of the arete.

Punchy wall route to finish under roof

A blunt arete arete, 2 carrots and 2 carrot bolt belay.

The prominent prow feature in the centre of the first part of the cave. Turn the hard roof down low to a rest, then follow overhung prow and roof above to lower offs. Can be done in all but the heaviest of rain. Six ring bolts and double ring lower offs.

Stick clip ring and climb bouldery start to Beached

On a small buttress about 50m left of the main crag. Onto the wall and up through the right side of the roof. 2 bolts and a tree belay.

straight up face to finish through rooflet

The closed seam leading into the crack and bowl. Nice easy beginners climb,

The short wall in an alcove, 1m right of COSMIC ENERGY. This moves up the short wall. 2 carrots and 1 bolt plus tree belay.

Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain.

The left side of the arete.

Totally excellent. A wall in a slight alcove right of RAGS TO RICHES. Up the wall with a bulge, 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Nice one Wayne!

Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW

Up wall past bolts then past a slight overhang and another bolt. Trad belay.

Start as for Criminal but traverse right to ledge then wander up face and arete to anchors

1.5 metres left of 'Chicken Heros'. Up easy slab to bolt with fixed hanger. An interesting sequence leads past this then pad on up to double bolt belay. (No bolts between first and anchor).

Funky climbing up the big chimney on the left of the crag.

Straight up the obvious white streak

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.

Not so easy if you're not light! Between FLAT BATTERIES and the "Shower Recess" (I think!). A steep wall with a thin crack near the top. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Just great!

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

One of the BEST on the cliff... A definite must do! A long, steep, slightly overhanging wall perpendicular to the main crag. Very sustained. 4 bolts. Originally had a double bolt belay but apparently someone has chopped them (?). Either rap off the dodgy tree or walk down.

Up through Rooflet to anchor.

Climb the Overhung feature on left side of wall.

A traverse of terror leading to a balancy face.

Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor.

One of the longest routes at Knox. Same start and first bolt as CT. Stick clip. Strenuously through the roof and then a rising traverse through a series of cool flakes. Probably only about 17 after the tricky start.

The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains.

Start as for OS for 2 bolts then head right up steepening wall. Longer draw on 4th bolt helps reduce drag, Finish as for white rabbit. An easier way to get on the finishing moves which are classic.

Fun face route.

Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

Up orange wall and white streak.

5M right of Chim Chim Cher-oo. Up the white streak, fun bouldery crux, then up slab left of tree to anchors.

Up wall just right of the Malloy.

Up slab 2m left of AG. A fine route with lots of interesting holds and moves.

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Left tending line of pockets on the left side of roof.

Start on the arête at the start of the big ledge/cave, 15m R of AG. Stick clip. Traverse left along the rails and then straight up the featured face.

One of the hardest routes at the crag. The obvious roof right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 bolts. It's great!

The first route on the main section of the cliff. A thin crack in a wall. Shoot up crack to horizontal break, then it's suddenly hard. 2 carrot bolt belay 2m back from cliff edge.

The wall right of GIBLETS. Up steepening wall. 3 bolts and trad belay. Superb.

1m right of Working the Dog. 2 bolts to trad belay.

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

The right most of the 3 route in the cave. Start under flake and up steeply to finish on lip.

2m right of Sibling Rivalry. Climb through the roof, past some empty pockets and onward to the top.