Routes in Mid North Coast

Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders.

2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings.

Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor

Left of Othila.

6m R of updl. Start above small cave, up to vertical crack, then another smaller cave, over this to ledge. Tree anchor.climb

Up Wall on Trad Gear

Up flack and through bulge

climbs the right leaning orange crack

the corner crack on left of wall

Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors.

left trending steep wall past 4 RB's

Up Crack and wall on trad gear.

Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp!

Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK

Up SF for 1 bolt then step right and up face.

Up orange wall and white streak.

up the black and yellow streak wall past flake and rooflet

Unknown entity. left line of hangers to chains

Up through Rooflet to anchor.

Up left yellow wall.

Start on face and cnr crack below first BR and fig tree. Can solo to first BR. Follow BR and crack line to top. (Don't use tree) 5 BR's plus SLCD. Tree Belay Single BR for directional.

Up to big bowl, then up to tree. All gear

5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay.

1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay.

The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay.

The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay.

From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger

A traverse of terror leading to a balancy face.

Direct start to Happy Lama.

Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section.

Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay.

The left side of the arete.

The right side of the arete.

First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off.

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

3 hangers to chain

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear.

heads straight up orange wall

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.

Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG

A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route.

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout.

4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs

Right of TRL. Classic, technical climbing through big pockets. 3 bolts to lower off.

Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs.

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain.

Up the Beautiful yellow wall past 4 bolts. Rebolted MAY 18

Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV

Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW

Climbs Black Arete on left of wall. Fun pockets at start then edges up high. Direct start from ground or traverse in from ledge

A tribute. Great moves all the way up the wall. Tops out to anchors just above lip for full value! REBOLTED FEB 14

Up wall just right of the Malloy.

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011

Start as for HOC or there is an optional direct start. Up wall to mantle ledge and anchor under roof.

Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof.

Start under obvious pocket. Up Past 2 original fixed hangers then straight up steep wall past 3 RB's to anchor.

Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route.

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.

Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top.

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors.

Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor

Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor.

Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route.

Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge.

It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off

Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor

Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip.

About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy.

Up featured wall 5m left of andy goodvibes

Up slab 2m left of AG. A fine route with lots of interesting holds and moves.

A fantastic slab with a great little crux roof. The orange streak about 15m right of 'Corky's crack'. Up pockets on orange section, then crux move onto the gray slab with progressively better moves to the top.

3m right of AG, step right on good foot holds to reach the first bolt. Follow bolts to lower off. Carrots

One of the longest routes at Knox. Same start and first bolt as CT. Stick clip. Strenuously through the roof and then a rising traverse through a series of cool flakes. Probably only about 17 after the tricky start.

Start on the arête at the start of the big ledge/cave, 15m R of AG. Stick clip. Traverse left along the rails and then straight up the featured face.

The corner/arete 2m right of CT. Stick clip first bolt, Jug up to a tricky move or two in the corner to the arête and then right up the face. Nice pockets up high.

Obvious Corner Crack. Up into the juggy corner, around the roof and up a nice hand crack to a tree.

Hard looking roof through hangers

Start in Back of cave, out through 5m roof to gain headwall and up.

The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains.

Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings.

3 bolts, finish as per CRTB

1m right of PGP. 2 bolts and a fixed hanger, finish as per TM.

Start at yellow paw print on wall at knee height. 1m right of PGADITHP, 2 bolts to rings.

1m right of TM. Natural gear (cams) in breaks, 1 fixed hanger, finish at rings above TM

15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers.

2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you.

In the middle of the wall, great climb for beginners, up the wall past nicely spaced bolts to a lower off in the groove down right of the tree.

4m right of WTPGHH. Through the large scoop, six CARROT BOLTS to chains at back of large scoop at top. The position of these chains means the rope is running over an edge for the lower off but the chains at WTPGHH can be used as an alternative. Apparently this was set up as a trainer for lead climbing.

3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up.