Routes in Mid North Coast

A really beautiful problem. Climbs the 10-degree overhung face starting on the low break and working through some tough and unique moves to the top. Worth the stars.

The right hand of the two bolted routes, about 12 m right of Adrenaline Overdrive. Cam and 3 bolts.

Start as for Pulmonary Vacuum but break right after first bulge continuing to the anchors on Isometrics via hard block.

The thin face and arete was a long-standing project. Fingery and technical. A long reach and a cold day may make it feel easier.

Start in Back of cave, out through 5m roof to gain headwall and up.

Compression banger! Sit start with arete and slot, squeeze the juice up to the top.

A roof boulder problem down and right from the routes. Start near the wall and traverse out the rail to the jug.

The line of bolts left of Eat This G-Man. Steep And Powerfull

The big roof at the left end of the crag is steep and powerful. Stick-clip the first bolt(s) then boulder up to the roof, out the flake, and round the lip. Up headwall more easily to chains. Classic!

Start as for arty project, traverse right on hangers then up steep wall tending rightish. Don't forget to breath!

Want to know what the moves on a 27 feel like? Well you can try just about all of the hard moves right of the big boulder! Starts as for Event Horizon but heads right over the boulder. Needs a few more bolts to get to the lip of the cave. Absolute sickness!

Start on obvious jug above the end of the large boulder. Thug your way past the steep, blank barrier to rejoin Thunder vision at it's crux.

Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain.

Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs.

Stand start on jug undercling and sloper sidepull. Up and to the left via toe hook trickery.

Located on the rock platform on the right you walk past at the main beach

The only roof problem here! Sit start as far back as you can right hand crimp left hand finger jug then top out. careful not to dab on back wall as you top out. warning must be low tide and make sure there is no swell or small swell to do this problem.

Stand start match on the obvious corner block above ledge. Move up through block and into obvious corner crack. Follow to top where it is dissected by a diagonally left sloping seam. Move through obvious pocket/block at the bottom L-hand end of this seam and continue out left to sharp jug. Move up and R to finish in obvious pocket. Scope for extension.

Start as for Slice and Dice before traversing up and left to finish as for The Snitch

Start as for Riptide before trending up and right on the face to finish at the top of the arete as for Slice and Dice

Low traverse begins near Cecil and finishes up on Iron Paw. Crux is a drop down move into the base of Iron Paw, mind the dab - hence the name.

2 metres to the right of route three. Easy past two old fixed hangers to rest under roof, then crazy jump move, only possible if you're tall, then slightly pumpy wall to top. Mix of old hangers on easier ground and new ring bolts on harder sections.

Same start as Fast Day In Paradise but branch off onto the right line of bolts. Top out.

8m left of 'Fast Day in Paradise', starting below the fragmented crack. Varietal, unique and quality climbing. Hard boulder problem to get established in the crack, following this all the way up until it fades into a flared, shallow seam at half height and then straight up thin wall through breaks, with a cruisy finish up the final headwall to top out and tree belay. Generous and solid gear placements grace the entirety of the route.

The overhanging, black arete left of the offwidth crack. Up past bolts to top-out.

Line of bolts left of White Chump, starts with a big move.

This route was originally conceived by G. Low and he placed some bolts and the chain at the roof. Nic Wagland completed the climb adding several rings. This great route begins with a weakness through the low horizontal roof and then follows the prominent arête. A good rest can be had before the final steep double sided column that leads to the chains.

Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route.

Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor

Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK

Sit start matching on good big crimp. Move to left square pinch follow by a beautiful right traverse on crimps with spicy ending using pocket and little flakey crimp.

Start on the R, and traverse all the way L (keeping low at the end), just past Shady Dayz then straight up past diagonal rail to topout past fronds.

Sit start out L, quite a hard pull to slopers and slab.

Obvious route just round the corner of the flat overhanging slab. Start on decent flat, left-hand side pull and right undercling gaston.

Sit start on Arete as for Slice and Dice before moving up and left to finish as for Riptide

Linkup: 'The Man With The Golden Guns' into 'Crimpsino Royale' combines the hardest set of moves on the crag.

The continuation of 'On Her Traverse-ty's Secret Service' along the quartz rail. After reaching the twin crimps at the start of Agent Starlight, keep going along the rail past a quartz spike, and a bottomless slot to gain the pinch in the crack of 'You Only Jam Twice'. Finish as for this.

...or woman, of course. The low start to Agent Starlight adds a couple of moves. Shuffle into the cave to start low (see marked holds on photo) (right hand poor crimp, left hand small edge). Pull on, right hand to poor slopey pinch, left hand undercut, then go again to snatch the starting quartz crimps of Agent Starlight, finish up this (or better, do Crimpsino Guns)

SDS at big hueco. Straight up. Probably harder now that the starting foothold has broken

From large jug on right to cool crimps out left on face, then airy topout. Fill hole in landing with pads... Classic!

Sit start and up obvious good holds to slight crux up top.

Most likely done before. If the FA has any information please update

Right line through small roof, large cobblestone sloper broke at lip while working the line.

Best looking line at the crag. Get onto left rising diagonal into steep open book corner. Fixed belay above.

Mini Lala Land

10m left of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. The left line of bolts that goes through the cool, pocketed rock, the small roof and up the wall. Top out or lower off the last bolt.

The undercut, grey wall right right of the offwidth crack. Around the roof, up the wall and top out.

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

The prominent arete with fixed hangers at the right hand end of the big orange rooves. Up the left side of the arete to a lower off at a ledge.

A link up. From the 2nd clip on Eat This G-Man traverse right into White Chump and up from the third bolt.

The right most of the 3 route in the cave. Start under flake and up steeply to finish on lip.

Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.

The obvious steepening white streak on the right of the crag.

Climbs the obvious overhanging arete

Straight up black face and around the rooflet

Direct start is open project. Start as for RD on right for 1 bolt. then step left at break and up steep line. Bring some skin.

Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors

Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.

Starts up the toilet bowl, traverse and up the existing line past some slopers to a spicy finish. Needs another bolt as lower offs. Originally bolted by Nick Wagland.

The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains.

Up the Beautiful yellow wall past 4 bolts. Rebolted MAY 18

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.

Link Scorpio Low Traverse into Space Race/Red Dwarf for a load of sideways fun. The longest route at the crag (so far), gets a bit of a pump going.

Left line through the small roof, then follow the relentless diagonal breaks.

Line 5m right of slab. Up orange face, through roof then up black face to anchors. Overdue for a rebolt

Up through bulge at start then slightly overhung wall on thin yellow streak. 6 Rings

The arete 2m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

The black wall around the corner from Warped Wall. Sustained climbing past about 4 bolts and trad gear to a chain belay.

Start just right of AJJ. Bouldery start off the big horn to nice headwall and chains on ledge. A few cams to place after the crux will help.

Two pitch extension out of Dead Mans Cave starting 3m L of Tinkerbell's DBB up the roof crack, finishing at the DBB of 'Sky's the Limit'. 1st pitch: 24 (Yet to be freed), 2nd pitch: 21

The real extension to Hydra, pack your big boy pants. From anchors of hydra head up and left towards arête. Before you get there head back right via horizontal break and then straight up via bolt to DBB.

Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts.

Batman start on first bolt, or free the fun start move at much the same grade. Up tending right to climb the beautiful feature.

Start as for CoD. Up first 4 bolts on CoD (hangers needed) then step head up and leftward to steep headwall and anchors. Beware of loose rock in the first half, a 60m rope will just get you back to the ground.

Silliness but a good warm-up. Climb Scorpio Low Traverse to the bolt, then reverse Scorpio High all the way back to the start. Bragging rights for multiple laps.

The original boulder traverse. Start by stepping off the boulder at the left-most good pockets (as per the start of Event Horizon). Traverse right (tricky at first) and continue low all the way to finish up the start to Arty's Project (to the jug by the first bolt). The flake in the middle can seep, but the wet hole can be avoided by going high (as per the High Traverse) and then dropping down to the 'porthole' before the final crux - only slightly easier. Crux is the final crimpy section to get the sidepull on Artie's start.

Perseus start into Thunder Vision, packs a bit more punch than the original.

A bouldery direct start to ‘The Thunderbolt Kid’. A tenuous move off the floor (crux) gains the left hand crimp, then pop to the pocket. Continue into TTK.

First route on right side of cave. Up wall and straight out through roof to anchors up headwall.

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor.

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors.

Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV

first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

heads straight up orange wall

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger

Start matched on the crimp next to the cave. Climb up the arete and finish on same horn as Beach Worm Wiggle.

Starts on long crimp at the bottom( sit start). Goes straight up and left. Exit is to the left of the highest point thru pocket and flakey crimp. Same finish as Natural Mistic.

Start in sharp mono and traverse left to up and out. Careful finger placement will result in keeping your fingers.