Voies sportive dans Mid North Coast

left trending steep wall past 4 RB's

Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp!

Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK

Up SF for 1 bolt then step right and up face.

Up orange wall and white streak.

up the black and yellow streak wall past flake and rooflet

Unknown entity. left line of hangers to chains

Up through Rooflet to anchor.

Up left yellow wall.

From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger

A traverse of terror leading to a balancy face.

Direct start to Happy Lama.

Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section.

The left side of the arete.

The right side of the arete.

First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off.

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

3 hangers to chain

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

heads straight up orange wall

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.

Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG

A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route.

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout.

Right of TRL. Classic, technical climbing through big pockets. 3 bolts to lower off.

Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs.

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain.

Up the Beautiful yellow wall past 4 bolts. Rebolted MAY 18

Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV

Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW

Climbs Black Arete on left of wall. Fun pockets at start then edges up high. Direct start from ground or traverse in from ledge

A tribute. Great moves all the way up the wall. Tops out to anchors just above lip for full value! REBOLTED FEB 14

Up wall just right of the Malloy.

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011

Start as for HOC or there is an optional direct start. Up wall to mantle ledge and anchor under roof.

Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof.

Start under obvious pocket. Up Past 2 original fixed hangers then straight up steep wall past 3 RB's to anchor.

Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route.

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.

Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top.

Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor

Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor.

Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route.

Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge.

Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor

Up featured wall 5m left of andy goodvibes

Up slab 2m left of AG. A fine route with lots of interesting holds and moves.

A fantastic slab with a great little crux roof. The orange streak about 15m right of 'Corky's crack'. Up pockets on orange section, then crux move onto the gray slab with progressively better moves to the top.

3m right of AG, step right on good foot holds to reach the first bolt. Follow bolts to lower off. Carrots

One of the longest routes at Knox. Same start and first bolt as CT. Stick clip. Strenuously through the roof and then a rising traverse through a series of cool flakes. Probably only about 17 after the tricky start.

Start on the arête at the start of the big ledge/cave, 15m R of AG. Stick clip. Traverse left along the rails and then straight up the featured face.

The corner/arete 2m right of CT. Stick clip first bolt, Jug up to a tricky move or two in the corner to the arête and then right up the face. Nice pockets up high.

Hard looking roof through hangers

Start in Back of cave, out through 5m roof to gain headwall and up.

The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains.

Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings.

3 bolts, finish as per CRTB

1m right of PGP. 2 bolts and a fixed hanger, finish as per TM.

Start at yellow paw print on wall at knee height. 1m right of PGADITHP, 2 bolts to rings.

15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers.

2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you.

In the middle of the wall, great climb for beginners, up the wall past nicely spaced bolts to a lower off in the groove down right of the tree.

4m right of WTPGHH. Through the large scoop, six CARROT BOLTS to chains at back of large scoop at top. The position of these chains means the rope is running over an edge for the lower off but the chains at WTPGHH can be used as an alternative. Apparently this was set up as a trainer for lead climbing.

Bottomless to BR, then up black rock on gear

This route was originally conceived by G. Low and he placed some bolts and the chain at the roof. Nic Wagland completed the climb adding several rings. This great route begins with a weakness through the low horizontal roof and then follows the prominent arête. A good rest can be had before the final steep double sided column that leads to the chains.

The closed seam leading into the crack and bowl. Nice easy beginners climb,

Starts up the toilet bowl, traverse and up the existing line past some slopers to a spicy finish. Needs another bolt as lower offs. Originally bolted by Nick Wagland.

Start under roof, Traverse out break and up wall. Climb on after first DBB to another bolt and second DBB.

The first good piece of rock on the cliff line and possibly the closest sandstone route to Coffs?? Climb arête past 2 bolts. Most people think this route is harder than 19 but Artie refuses to give such a short route a harder grade. Let's call it 'stout'.

4m left of Yosemite Action Hero. Very punchy through rooflet.

Stick clip ring and climb bouldery start to Beached

Start as for FSA then veer right and up thin slab to anchors on ledge

As for beached then Continue up steep headwall from ledge to finish with hands on top of cliff. Beware of some loose rock. Needs Anchor

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

The thin face and arete was a long-standing project. Fingery and technical. A long reach and a cold day may make it feel easier.

A juggy roof that is way easier than it looks from the ground. 3 bolt slab with pockets to ledge, take a breather and then campus into the roof on massive jugs and up through more steep terrain to a lower off below small tree.

The amazing looking, yellow, honey-comb roof 15m left of Super Grover. Up wall and then crank out the 3-4m horizontal roof on jugs and pockets to finish on holds over the lip. Anchor has permadraws on it to make cleaning a little easier

Fun face route.

wall just left of offwidth

First route on right side of cave. Up wall and straight out through roof to anchors up headwall.

The prominent prow feature in the centre of the first part of the cave. Turn the hard roof down low to a rest, then follow overhung prow and roof above to lower offs. Can be done in all but the heaviest of rain. Six ring bolts and double ring lower offs.

2m left of DotU. Boulders start then up steep wall to clip anchors on lip of roof

Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors

Starts before the main white wall.

Line right of Magic Noodle. Holes drilled but bolts not in yet

Start as for MG head right over bulge to anchors under roof (anchor not yet installed)

Hard start off ledge then up past scoop and steepening finish. Shares Anchors with FF.

Straight up middle of white wall. Fun moves on great stone.

A Tasty treat on a summers day. straight up the guts of the wall through overlap and steep finish.

Start as for OS for 2 bolts then head right up steepening wall. Longer draw on 4th bolt helps reduce drag, Finish as for white rabbit. An easier way to get on the finishing moves which are classic.