Routes in Hunter Valley

Sit Start 1.5 metres to the right of 'Tree of Life' hugging the roof. Right hand utilises the obvious right angle brick edge/pinch on the lip of the roof, left hand underneath in a small slot just above the flake. Launch out left via some cool moves dropping into the flake & start holds of Tree of Life. Finish as for this.

Start on flat jug at the left of the wall. Reverse Butt Rodgers and continue up A Crow Left of the Murder. Rather than going right to the jug, keep moving straight up to finish on crimp rail.

A real hidden classic.

Sit start under the steep wall on the right side, at the big undercling.

Head up following some slopey ledges, then swing across to left side of bloc, tricky tension moves guard the finish up then onto the arete. Highly recommended to scrub the top, as this bloc doesn’t get much sun.

Start same as v3. Match on the small crimps to left, not the deep crimp on right. Massive throw out to left, with bump into slope, and finish on right.

Sit start just right of crack, moves across to arete where ToL joins left hand arete.

Finish as for ToL.

PYP into second pitch of Troglodyte, continuing into the end of COH

Sit start on the horizontal jug, big move up to slopey edge on left, then pop up to small edge and finish right on the jug ledge.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Climb Sugar Monster to anchors, then continue out to the left to finish as for Creature of Habit.

Thin climbing to finish right of the large stag horn. Some interesting small and slopey holds.

Prob the longest route in the cave. Sent in classic Jase style with about 25 knee bars, maybe a few less for regular folks! Start by climbing Flesh Gording, then keep traversing left past anchors of Long Wall Mining and Sugar Monster, going all the way out to the lip (day light) of the whole cave. Be careful, there is a lot of bird guano and dust up towards the end and some lose rock.

The corner in the middle of wall to thin face moves

Proudest line of the crag! Sit start deep in centre of cave, on reddish coloured rock. Follow rail of jugs out to good sloper at lip, on the bottom of the small vertical face. Gain the horizontal break, reach up to obvious sidepull, then blast your way out the final roof to an exciting topout. Hard final moves.

Start as for One Crow on jugs and traverse left as for DND. Where Dontolleo goes up, keep going left towards arete. Burly move guards link to arete. Climb up arete a little to big jug. Down climb over left to get off

The middle of the wall with the funky features. Start at the right side of the platform. Straight up the wall staying to the right finishing almost on the arete!

Start below burnt out stump, up the thin steep wall past 5 fixed hangers.

Climb the hanging prow to finish on Pinching Pigeons. Batman to first ring then head out on the pockets to a big dyno.

Climb Trotter's Trifecta 2 to anchors, then keep traversing out right pinching and kneebar to anchors at lip of cave.

Legless miner, continuing into COH

An endurance resistance monster! Climb "Pull ya Plonka" then continue along the massive overhang to finish 5m left of the black leg anchors. Take long draws and about 4x 600mm slings

Climb 5/6 of Haasnoot been done, then go across left and up staying on good clean rock. Long quick draw length required around the corner and for the last bolt runner of Haasnoot been done.

Diagonally right through slight cave and straight up (crux) to the second set of lower offs. Rebolted & Extension added 2004 - Wilde/Jefferson

Start in the back of the cave, out to rooflet and up via interesting holds to the sting in the tail and double bolt anchor.

Start as for EoS, use 2 pebbly crimps with left & right hand to gain a sloping left sidepull.

Pop up to good ledge, some sneaky foot shenanigan's will help. This one chews the tips.

Sit start low on good edges. One move up to big obvious big juggy ledge then take the pocket with your right hand. Tops out up to the left on crimps or be the first to dyno from the pocket to the top! (The main good hold after the pocket has since broken, now around V6?)

Line between TEoS and TCoM, starting in the back of the cave on obvious bulge in cavity. Punches straight out to edges, finishes up and right, to same finish as TeoS on the flat ledge.

• A technical boulder
• Start sitting underneath start of Fight Milk, using left hand corner jug and right hand undercling edge just above the ground.
• Traverse out right using any holds and feet to 2nd last Donotello crimp rail and Donotello finish crimp. Right side of Donotello start is out. Two hands match crimp to finish.

This is the standing start to Crow. It’s a one mover, but still a great problem!

Use slopey ramp with left hand and side pull with right hand, pull on and pop up to good edge. Then across to right jug for a matched finish.

V5 or V6 take your pick, either way its great! Start on jugs for A Crow, traverse left to starting holds of Donotello. Now straight up and finish as for Donotello. Drop off.

JJ

Start on the slab, traverse the whole boulder not using the top.

Hard fingery and sharp start into thin crack then straight up the wall to common anchors

Right of The Dreaming Wall, just left of the big tree. Up thin start to an interesting finish below the upper wall. Lower off as for Dreaming Project.

Awkward to get over inital buldge then reach out left to clip 3rd bolt from ledge, then punch hard!

As for SOABD for first 3 bolts. Punchy move up & right to gain good rail and a slight stance. Pump on up using small edges to tricky redpoint crux move at last bolt. Skip or clip? After last bolt head across right to Talc anchors. Classic climbing

Sharp, tough start from ground up to an easier finish. Straight up, starting 4m left of PP start U. Might be a warm-up if you batman to the first bolt.

Start in the very back of cave, some sharp holds lead to some funky knee baring and roof moves.

Start on the small pedestal as for BLM alt start, head out left between stalactite and small cave, head out staying just right of "Sugar Monster"

Climb PYP, past it's crux. Then head hard left through small stalactite, steep but good holds. Joins in the last part of Troglodyte second pitch. A number of the draws need to be extended more than you'd think to make life easier.

Climb PYP to the plonka, then go left to join troglodyte below the anchors of pitch 1. Climb 2 bolts of trog pitch 2 before climbing up and right past a fixed hanger to independent anchors (seized wiregates). Shenanigans to avoid terrible rope drag.

One for the budding pumpers. Climb Toast, then head straight up past 4 RB's to start of a diagonal ramp. Route then moves up right along ramp for 2 RB's. From here blast straight up and around a cruxy bulge to anchors with wire gate lower-offs. 12 rings in total.

Starts on ledge at base of ramp up to DBB at right facing corner

Just left of Foghorn, reach the start jug off the top of the boulder. Follow fixed hangers up and right into cavelets. Then traverse left past ring to kneebar rest. Clip another ring then a tough final move to the anchors.

Pitches of 23 (Trad), 26 (Sport), 24 (Trad).

P1 (23) Brilliant technical trad climbing, a fun warm up.

P2 (26) Be careful getting to 1st clip (easier for the tall)move up left side of FH then step gingerly across right to sloping ramp. Follow a line of fixed hangers up a sustained wall of technical climbing to get to the pedestal belay (13 draws).

P3 (24) Hard start with potential to fall onto belay as the 1st bolt is quite high up, place a long sling when rapping in. Once going, it features tenuous bridging, followed by quality crack climbing in a suburb position.

Its helpful to rap in on a long static (100+m), makes for a quick escape if required

The thin steep crack 2m right of Crystal Ships. Small cams essential.

Clip the first bolt with a stick, then follow the hanging arete to join Horticultural High

Visionary bolting by “The Waynes” has, via strong attempts by Paul Riviere and George Fieg, resulted in a very hard wall climb past badly positioned bolts. The placement of a ring bolt has made the climb much safer though no easier!

An easy bold start, leads to the crux of Killer Clowns from Outer Space

Very thin climbing up a blank section of wall. Leave Bereska at half height and climb the thin right wall past 2 bolts

Up corner to roof. From roof head out left on U bolts to shared anchor with Pete's route, may need some small cams after the roof to avoid a bad fall.

Left to right traverse of wall.

Semi sit start on good edge, straight up.

Start as for TCOM. Upon gaining the horizontal break, move left to finish as for GMOC. A classic 5 and a crag must do!

Start on 2 good holds and average feet, move up to big ear/sidepull. From here up and left to good rail and then final moves up to crimp rail and match. Drop off

Up the middle of the slab, to mantle on the crimper, head left to top.

Sit start under the small roof then up the arete. Often wet at the start.

A pumpy, strenuous, crimpy traverse test piece. Staying low is recommended. Often has a wet landing.

Start on the small platform, right undercling, left pinch, high right foot up the strange sequence. Avoid the platform if you fall!

Same start as 'Cross Bred', go right though, to a sharper right mono pocket.

Start on the arete to finish on a tough move.

Starting inside the small overhang straight up the face (avoiding the tree).

For those who aren't sick of the bed swerver crux. Wish prime time traversed further? No? Oh well. First 3 bolts of Prime Time, very long draw on fourth, keep traversing along jugs, then finish up Bed Swerver.

The Bed Swerver jugs not getting you pumped enough for the thin crux at the top? Take this link-up for a spin! Climb the first two bolts of Risky to the jugs, then traverse left and clip the third of Bed Swerver (extended) and up you go.

Start 2m right of Risky Business. Up and slightly right of 1st u-bolt, then trend up & left to join Risky Business @ 3rd Draw. 5 U-Bolts & 2 U-Bolts for Loweroffs

start next to the big block. past 1 bolt, then a difficult move to gain the second, take care clipping. Continue up some nice moves to top.

Slab around the corner. Easy start with a technical, crimpy finish.

Start as for Traverse of the Sods then in the middle of the cave punch straight up through the roof. Originally done with only the lower bolt at the lip. Extra bolt added 23/08/21 to reduce the risk of bad falls.

Slightly easier than TRBD and a good way to investigate the moves at the lip. Potential for a more difficult right hand variant if you take the pocket with your left hand and shoot straight up. Tough!

Mega line that covers some of the best territory at the crag! Shoot up Grimy Wormtongue, hooking left at the anchors to reverse the traverse, then pull the spicy mantle through the middle of the roof to gain the victory slab at the top. Lots of extended draws make life better.

very technical, sustained and bouldery, and contrived. Climbing up the arete.

Starts with big jugs on steep overhang, with strong moves up to preplaced chains through very cool tunnel thing with hands free rest, up around roof to double ring bolt lower off.

Start next to the small fig 4m left of the "look mum no cams" start. Up past two fixed hangers to join LMNC to top.

powerfull, called bentho the taxi slayer

unreal route

On the right wall of the second alcove, just to the left of the green moss. Technical pocket pullling to bouldery finish

Same start for the Fridge Thing, then awkwardly step left on ledge to 2nd bolt, use a long draw. Gingerly reach up to good jug at 3rd bolt. Crux can be done two ways, knee dislocator or double crimper. 4th ring was added after 1st ascent as a dogger. From 5th bolt head up slightly left then up to ring and then head up and right into diagonal crack system. Tricky moves and hidden holds lead to last ring. Step left and then straight up to anchors.

First bolt can be clipped from coming in from the high right side with care, but the climb starts down underneath on the ground. Scramble up the slab section below first bolt to ledge. Bouldery moves to get off the ledge to gain the blunt flake. 2nd clip is a little tenuous, then head slightly up and right to via a tricky sequence to get to 3rd clip, Techie moves out left to get to a balancy 4th clip, then up slightly right to get to a very hard clip at 5th draw. On pumped arms head up and left to gain vague but good flake, up and back right to get to 6th bolt. Easier ground to Cold shut and U bolt anchor.

The thin left route on the boulder down hill.

Along the low flake past 2 hangers then up through bulges. It finises at last bolt, or continue up vegetation to shared anchors on top and rappel off.

The rock that is, used 4new drill bits. Great moves to nice easy finish on slab. The route that starts under the right leaning crack

Up the hanging arete with a tough start. Project tag still on due to loose block. Finishes on common anchors on top of block

Now re-bolted on U bolts. Route is aproximatly 50m south of the access track to Hoppy's Cave. May need a little cleaning. Starts at twin grass trees and trends left. Be careful of them when lowering.

The horizontal roof with a steep finish, move right to anchors.

A great line taking in the whole roof. Has a small cave a 1/3 of the way. Start at the back left hand end of cave, follow rings to first cave, then step out around stalactite and contine on what seems like a never ending roof.

Better rock and steeper moves can be found in this upper section of Troglodyte. Climb left then up forever from the anchors of pitch 1. Linking both pitches from the ground may not have been done yet?

Undercut start 2m right of Toast. Trends up and right to 2 ring bolt lower off. 6 ring bolts & 2 more 4 lower off.

Start 5m from edge of cave, there is a hex bolt low if needed to start. Out horizontal roof, then directly up as angle eases to lower off.

Start as for Toast, clipping it's first ring, then head out left, out pipers new line to finish at Toast anchor... or keep going!

Fixed hangers and rings. Starts 2m right of Vulcanian, 2m left of Toast, out independent line to join toast at it's last bolt.

The obvious face with the 2 ring bolts. Nice thin moves lead the way up this classic face. Continue out right under the small roof the cut back across left to top out.

Middle of right side ledge. Bouldery moves off the ground to get past past 2 FHs and up to undercling and a good cam. Move out left and up using side of block to get onto slab. Small cams and little wires protect moves to large break. At break traverse slightly left to get slopey ramp with a fixed hanger that has tricky moves overcoming bulge. Step right to finish up thin seam protected with small RP’s. Belay up and left on RB anchors. Stella Line!

Possibly the only sport route on Dolphin Walls! The wall directly above the abseil station on the halfway ledge, up past 6 fixed hangers.

Classic up the middle of the wall directly below anchors. Thin sustained climbing. Easily to diagonal then up through shallow scoops on right, then trend left to pocket.

RIP Trent Lee 3/12/79-20/9/20. . . Trent looked at this line and after several attempts, gifted me (JJ) the line. Trent was a great guy and was always looking to his next adventure as well as being a gear pig. Thank you for the gift Trent, the name came as a thanks to Trent and a rhyming pun. From memory I think I flashed it, so it’s not a benchmark for the grade, enjoy the gift. . . . Bouldery start past a couple of bolts to ledge then more boulderyness to large break. Have a good rest here because it's your last one. The climb finishes at the top of the delicate wall 1.5m past the anchors.

The left hand route. Tough start then some nice thin moves to top, anchor has 2 figure 8's through U bolt..