Routes in Illawarra and Shoalhaven

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Tricky start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth V-groove left of 'Crawdad'

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The climb starts at the same place as Nursery, but you go straight up the crack. It is all naturally protected.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder).

[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs]

Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to top

A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay.

climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included

Starts as for Jacky, not very popular. Up the short arete to crack. Using side of crack climb climb up slightly right to corner in roof. Climb past old peg up to roof. Contort around roof and grovel up!

Natural protection. A good route, start at 'J'. Up shorte arete to crack in lip of roof that comes across from Goober Grease. Up the crack then follow some bulges to exit.

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go!

Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top.

Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top).

[Mar 2012 - all new RB's and they have been repositioned] Start bridging up 'Bills Folly' crack to clip 1st bolt on 'Malignant Falcon' , then up and traverse across wall/ledge to arete. Up arete past bolt to top. Caution: large block midway up arete moves , but its ok, its in solid.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top.

Start as for Hills Hardmen. Up the slab and continue up ramp to the right of the bolt to horizontal, traverse back left into line at tree. Straight up as for HH over top bulge to belay.

Natural and bolt protection. Take 2 brackets and 'freinds'. One hard move near the 1st bolt. The rest is around 17. Up the middle of the easy slab and reach left to clip 1st bolt. Place your feet and hands all on the same hold then crank for the next hold. Easy up to top bulge then bolt protects good top section. Toprope bolts over the top.

[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional RB added to this route] The West Face test piece for up and coming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof.

A low traverse of the west face starting in the corner and finishing on the block right of Intrepid. You can climb just above the ledge between Zatidee and Gumtree Wall but its nicer just to walk this bit. Gets a little high off the ground in places, due mostly to the massive amount of soil erosion that's taken place in the last 40 years.

Natural protection. The corner flake crack leading to a dark chimney.

'A mind snapper wall climb' - Hill. Climb the wall just left of the corner (Bills Folly Chimney) to horizontals (bolt) and reach high for hidden hold. One move left and up past 2nd bolt to exit onto ledge. From here continue up easy wall above or lower off.

"A good traverse across a pocketed horizontal weakness". Up wall left of corner as for Book Him Danno Murder One to horizontals (bolt) and keep traversing left to the arete past 2nd bolt. Layback up arete, (bolt) to ledge. From here continue up juggy arete to top or lower off.

Bouldery, mind pumping finger work up an undercut arete. Start just right of Stratum. Traverse across the face (bolt) to undercut arete and up to ledge and bollard. Easily up or rap off

In the corner marked 'S'. Natural protection. Up groove, around roof to the right, then up to the top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Directional ring 3meters lower than anchor on opposing wall.Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Natural protection. Start 2 meters right of Juggy Crack. Up the wall to the top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Directional ring 3meters lower than anchor on opposing wall.Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The corner crack marked JC. Up the crack...ahhh thats what number 11 hexes are

[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added]

As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs.

[2011 MAR - LOs and 5 new ring bolts added] 'An absolute ripper of a chossy roof'. Very exposed - relatively easy for such a large roof. Start 2m left of 'Juggy Crack'. 13 meters up the wall to the big roof. Reach around left of the nose to clip to edge hidden ringbolt, then crank out over the roof on buckets. Lower offs on right side of roof top.

Up the easy wall (bolt) to ledge beneath roof. Reach out and clip ringbolt, grovel out roof and mantle on rounds past ringbolt to the top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Start as for My Red Slug. Natural pro. Leftward up wall to top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Another one of those roof climbs that looks like it could fall on you! Start in the corner at the righthand side under the large roof (Right of Putain De Pudding).Up the Short corner past bolt to roof, lean out on jugs up over to clip bolt on left. Swing leftward over lip and on up left to follow pedestal (bolt) to top.

Closed Project. Start as for PP up and into the roof. Traverse left and pull lip and link into putain . If ya wanna have a go just ask

The original. Aid bolts through the blank roof then up.

Initialled. Traverse into the corner and then the whole horizontal break left.

According to the old guide book this could be the hardest route on the West face. The middle of the roof protected by ringbolts, left of the line of rusty bolts placed by Bill James years ago and as an aid route. Follow the break right past the rings to gastone in roof.

Punch it out past ring to pockets on the lip. Crank to crimper around lip following flake. Finish at break (No DRB anchor), or proceed through Jungle Of Death! WARNING - there is no DRB anchor on this route

As for Pams Pussy, continues the horizontal jamb crack all the way out right to meet into the top of 'Putain de Puddin'.

The arete just right of the start of 'Pams Pussy'. Hand traverse out right to step on the large casuarina to clip the 1st ringbolt. (now gone) Climb the arete past two more rings to the top. Double ringbolt belay.

Natural protection. Hand traverse the jamb crack (cams) out right (and dont step on the bloody tree!) When 2 meters past the arete clip the bolt and reach for the high jug then up the wall to the ledge. Clip bolt and finish direct over bulge onto desperate slab.

Natural pro. Up the crack to the ledge, then traverse off right until you can get up to the top. Could be top-roped with the Serenity top rings.

CAUTION !! Permanent bees nest in small cave halfway up the route. Makes it hard to do any of the routes on this wall.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

Three carrot anchor in small cave near the top.

14m Boulder problem. The arete left of HFBI.

Start at ground level in the crack to the right of bulgy slab. Crank through the roof on solid jugs and then the chossy chimney to the top. There are carrots on top ~3m to the left. Big cams advised.

Would like to add a bolt near the top left of crack and anchors on top.

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

The wall right of Outside Space without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux!

The crack/corner marked 'SO'. A jug fest. Pretty Iffy.

Mantle then follow the offwidth. Marked 'OS'. Teacup jams optional. Original name "Feeling Seedy New Years Day"

Start marked 'V'. The chimney you can see walking up the short gully. To the left of OS.

Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left, searching out for those crimps and jugs.

Use Psicotico rings or carrots just to the left. Work you way up diagonal crimp rail. Reach for slopers at horizontal break then jugs to the top.

Start in the small cave, lay-back and head up the right edge of the wall.. stay right until the top. The cave exit contains the crux.

Very last climb on the West Face (as you walk west along the access track ). Or very 1st if you start from the Nitro Wall access gully. Walk past the 'Volkswagon' small gully and turn right at the corner and head up the large open gully. 15m up, on your right - the climb with the small cut-out cave.

Start up the left side arete, all the way on jugs to the lower-offs at the top ledge.

West face graffiti boulder. Located above main west face climbs. Such a obvious, superb line. Surely this has been climbed. Start just right of choss. Sit start, left hand in little low pocket. Right in perfect side pull pinch. Top out right of corroded water line

Sit start middle of wall. Left hand dimple pinch/side-pull (bowling ball hold), right hand finger pocket. Straight up and delicate top out left of middle bulge

Far right side sit start. Start with either 2 side pulls in the lower crack section or left hand out on crimp. Get those starting feet dialed! Straight up and top out at plant

Sit start on the big jug

Sit start. Trending left up the vague arête

Sit start on the two underclings. Then up through sloppers to a tricky mantle

Start at same holds as 'Nitro Wall Leftside' (V5), then climb left along until you reach happy gas and finish up this.

Sit start on the arete. Up the lip to top out same as the next problem.

Sit start from big hueco/mega pocket, move left and up, top out.

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move up via small pocket and crimp to match the lip. Committing move out left and up to mantle.

Potentially already F.Aed in the late 90's

As seen on "Comin At Ya Hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete until you gain to micro crimps, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

Unclear why this was bolted (or who) but here it is. Out of the cave, one ring bolt then DBB anchor on top of the block.

Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0)

Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone.

The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip.

Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top.

Dylan Hill

Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it.

On the holds right of Sinn Fein

Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out.

Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepull (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder).

Start in the middle of the ledge as for Mr. Marsupial, and head straight up on crimps, to an easy mantle to top out directly above the start.

Matched start on the left-most jug, then traverse right with sparse feet to the crack and head straight up to top out as for TBOC.

Do Mr. Marsupial, but instead of topping out as for the V1, traverse the entire upper slab of the book boulder to top out as for TBBOE.

Sit start on obvious jug, then move up and left to a slopey top out.

Sit start on the obvious two jugs as for Keira Sutra, and head straight up the funky crack to top out directly above starting holds. Feels very hard until you get the right beta.

Start matched in the large hole/jug, and head straight up the crack.

Sit start on jugs as for Keira Sutra, then head up and trend right to top out about 1.5 metres right of Book of Cracks.

Start sitting at the obvious jugs on the LHS, move across the lip utilising various underclings in the roof to summit via the Big Book LHV. Funky, interesting and unlike anything else in the area that I know of!

Start with left hand in nice undercling in roof and right on a decent pinch. Kick right foot up into the jug and you are away, head left to good 2 finger pocket/sloper at the lip and then mantle.

Heinous line of crimps to mantle the face. Start at jug as for TBBBOE

Instead of moving right hand to the lip, go with the left to a shallow pocket then RH bumps up to the good edge and mantle.

Start on the rhs of the boulder at a big obvious jug. Move onto the roof jugs, go right hand to the lip, then move up to the good edge via slopers and mantle...

Start at the jug as for TBBOE, but instead of reaching for roof jugs move right around the lip via good (but sharp) crimps, mantle and top out as for TBBOE.

Start at the same jug as "the big book of slabs", then follow the crimp sequence around the lip and up onto the slab. Split from the "the big book of slabs" by moving right, away from the arete, to then mantle and top out.

Start low, hugging the boulder with left and right arete, use the arete on either side to progress. Trend left using crimps and slopers to top.

To start, match on the deep hold to the left of the boulder and bump right hand to the upper slit. keep traversing to the far side. Top out through the side of the boulder via the holds at the side and the top. Mind the footwork at the start, very cramped but fun.

Start wherever feels comfortable on the rails below, left foot jam into the hole, right foot on the lower rail. Span left hand up to the crimp, palm the start hold and move up through the crimps to the top out.

Start matched on obvious right rail, move to left crimp and top.

Start matched as for 'Fish Cake', big move out to right crimp and then top out.

Sit start on pockets, slap out left to slopers and then up and over with small crimp.

Sit start on with RH on nice pocket, LH crimp, move straight up the undercling flake with some sick moves to a suprisingly easy top out. Be careful of the razor sharp pebbles!

The hard Arête project to the right of Split Tip. Maybe V9-10?