Routes in Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Start one hand under the roof on the decent undercut and one hand with the hold on the lip, traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo". Originally started under the roof with 2 undercuts which is now broken, starting one move higher brings the grade down from the original v14.

Start and climb Ram Raid, continue up and and right via additional moves to join the scoop of Undertow/Tube surfing via a big huck, then continue up & TOP OUT. Can be finished standing in the scoop if so desired. Take caution if topping out. The FA cleaned and practiced this on a rope prior to sending.

Start on the starting holds of Pearl Necklace but head left via shallow underclings and pockets to finish up Bumpy Boys.

Start as for Jug to Jug to the LH slot but then head left across Turbo Guns via two difficult cross overs to finish left of that problem.

Start on the undercling and move up to the two crimps, then a long move to the first break. Go straight up from here to the next break it's Australia's first V11.

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

Slot currently broken. Much much harder now.

Makes Joe, Joe Dynamo (Lot 33) feel like a walk in the park. Consensus upgrade from V11.

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece.

Daniel

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

Start Attack mode but go direct.

10m of roof climbing on pockets and pinches. Starts back left of cave, head out towards the centre of the cave mouth.

Sit start on good holds down to the left, move up and right through the roof, then up arête to top out.

Stand-start with LH on sidepull and RH on undercling. Move up and exit left.

Start as for Better Than Plastic, traverse left & climb Tube Surfing. This line TOPS OUT, but can be finished standing in the scoop if so desired. Take caution if topping out. The FA cleaned and practiced this on a rope prior to sending.

Stand Start as for Tube Surfing, traverse right to join & finish as for Better than Plastic.

Start as for Turbo Guns but from the first break go with the LH to the gaston slot of Turbo Guns then a super long move around the bulge and finish as per Turbo Guns.

Links into 'Special Delivery'.

Starting at 'Nappy Nuggets' trending left. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold.

Start as for ‘Klockwork Orange’ and finish as for ‘Stargate’.

The alternate unethical approach to https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/sutherland/route/13097509

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Liam Buckman

As seen on "Comin At Ya Hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete until you gain to micro crimps, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move up via small pocket and crimp to match the lip. Committing move out left and up to mantle.

Potentially already F.Aed in the late 90's

He says he cant but its the belief he can.

Start up Cheese Monster past the first crux. At the break climb right, past the crux of "Non-Dairy Cheese-Like Substitute". At the break under the roof, head straight out past slopes and edges (V9) and finish with a big move to the break. Awesomely sustained climb, vision and bolts by Robbie Le Breton, climbed by Vince Day.

Route renamed on request of Vince Day in 2020.

Lee Cossey

Tom O'Halloran

Climb meta to the last bolt then head left to the ‘jug’ rest on baby cheeses and do it’s final crux before finishing up the big cheese.

Same first move as Brown Badge, then head right to finish all the way up ANS. Originally bolted by Rob Lebreton

Bit of a debate about the grade, seems 32/33!! Start as for Frosty, at the major break where frosty continues upwards, veer left via some awesome bouldery moves.

The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian.

Daniel Fisher

Rose Weller

White Trash into Tramp Stamp via the project bolts.Then just keep on trucking. Slightly harder version of Tramp Stamp original.

As for either WT or SITW. If beginning up WT, trend leftwards to join the traverse on Skin to Skin, get your ass up to the cave at the chain on top of SITW. From here wind the biceps up and punch out along the roof flake until a chain anchor around the lip. Could be the best roof climb in Australia. Awesome!!!

Extension of "Sexy is the Word".

Start low on flat edge and big pinch. Do a few moves and exit to the lip as early as possible. OG beta didn't use the pocket but probably same grade if you need to use it.

Sleep Orca exiting direct via a committing throw. Absolute classic.

Stand start on a flat left hand edge and a low right hand pocket. Smear feet and move up dynamically then up again and exit left.

Dyno

Stand Start in the dish undercling scoop, move up and left via some bomber edges to sloper. Continue left and finished matched at the bottom left sloper of the giant scoop. Can be climbed into the scoop via big pocket for full value.

Stand Start matched on the giant pebble/loaf. Make some hard moves via a 2 finger pocked. Finish matched on the huge jug pocket at head height.

Start way right on the two obvious holds, traverse left to join Monkey Grip, and finish up the problem.

Start on the big break then LH cross-over to pocket and bust RH to break. Match and then long move with RH to gaston the slot, LH up to the 3 finger pocket and jump around the bulge, control the swing and finish matched on the jug just up and right. Australia's first V10 and still the benchmark.

Start on the undercling and move up to the two crimps, then a long move to the first break. Head left to the rail then back right to the break it's "only" V10.

Start as for ‘The Crotty’ and finish as for ‘I Want To Be A Pumper’.

Harder start than the previous problem but the same big throw to finish.

Links 'Stargate' into 'I Want To Be A Pumper'.

Links 'I Want To Be A Pumper' into the finish of 'The Crotty'.

Straight up small crimps, big move to finish.

Start sitting at the obvious jugs on the LHS, move across the lip utilising various underclings in the roof to summit via the Big Book LHV. Funky, interesting and unlike anything else in the area that I know of!

Small flakes up the consistently overhanging wall. Looks about grade 1 million ! Closed Project until 2023

Start up WBTM, traverse right into "Strike of the Silver Fox" then continue right through roof for a few more meters before turning the lip and finishing up head wall.

Start up Cheesemonster. At the break traverse right a few metres to join Non Dairy Cheeselike Substitute, and finish up that.

Start on 'ankles away' then head right through multiple roofs to a ledge before the unique 'bowl' crux and final roof. Wait for a dry spell and take some long slings.

One for the Kneebarers, starts a few metres left of Cheese Gobbler up via a couple powerful moves and cruxy kneebar into the quality roof and head wall.

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Parasite into the finish of El Maco via the cool 'la rose' move. Sustained.

Start as for Parasite past the crux the head left through El Maco to finish up the crux of Frosty.

Start as for Frosty and at 3rd bolt move leftwards towards the small cave directly under the roof, blast directly through roof.

The original line. From Meet The G anchors, climb around rooflet onto upper face to high anchor.

A long link-up worthy of mention as it covers some amazing country. Start up Dude Food, to go through Vogue and up Church Of Christ to anchors. Head right across Turn Your Eyes Insane to finish up Hopelessly Devoted To You anchors.

Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon.

climb the first 2 bolts of narcosis, then bust right to the lip of slip, slop, slap. clip the bolt and finish up slip slop slap!! great fun!

Start: as for narcosis

The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

The area of large boulders on your left once you hit the bottom of Sugarloaf Gully. There is a track to the river.

Stand start. LH juggy gaston or flat crimp, RH undercling. Go up a few moves and head left on good holds after the mega jug. *Big boulder at the base has tipped over as of May 2022, considerably changing the start.

Sit start on the same hold as Blowing Blood but head right and finish up quite high as per Gorilla Grip.

(The line no longer exists) Sit start just right of Mr Olympia and go up RH to the pocket and head left to join Mr Olympia and finish up that problem.

(The line no longer exists) aka Don't Get Huge, Get Massive Sit start on the RH undercling and go up left to some shallow crimps, then back up right to the better holds. Take the pinch with your RH and long move around the bulge to match on the finishing hold.

Start from obvious jug. Right hand to crimp and Left hand to side-pull pocket to finish at break. (please edit the name if you know the name of this line).

A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing! The landing is a bit dodgy so pad it out and have a spotter.

Start matched on a good hold, go RH to sidepull, some funky footwork and then LH up to jug in roof. Up to the pocket and same move again to finish.

Start at Sexy Rexy traverses right all the way to finish up Nappy Nuggets. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish.

Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish.

LH crimp that you use to throw to the finishing jug has snapped. There is still a hold there but probably goes at a harder grade * Starts right where the blue Lot 33 graffitti is. Awkward start to gain the sidepull/undercling with your RH. Then a long move LH to a shallow pinch, cross over with your RH to a pocket. Then up to the sharp LH crimp and a throw to the jug to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!*

Heinous line of crimps to mantle the face. Start at jug as for TBBBOE

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

The first king line completed! Bring your knee pads to make good use of the two rests because this is looong. Links Prehistoric Punk -> Renegades of Punk -> Nirvana -> Punk Soccer then escapes out the chimney.

Short crack to spectacular orange line above.

As for Stinky Cheese for 8 metres or so. Head up through the slopey flake to the start of the roof. Go left about 10 metres to join the last 3 moves of Cheesemonster (stay high).

Andrew Bull Hugo Hornshaw