Showing all 49 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Urbenville Battery Hill | |||||
14 | A Bug's Life
Squash it! This was Grant's first (and only?) new route. 6m L of CB. Up easily to crescent shape corner (small wires, small and medium cams). Leave crack on exposed move to ledge (FH). Boldly over ledges above to DBBM. Worth the effort if you’re homesick for Kangaroo Point or you carried in some pro and must use it no matter what! FA: Grant LeLeve & Darrin Carter, 1999 | 20m, 1 | |||
10 | Positively Terminal
Tricked into a solo by Sandbag Sam. Up wall just R of tree with large leaves about 15m L of the two pines. At top of wall trend L to start of R leading ramp. Up this to wall 3m from top. Straight up wall. No pro. "Why did you do that?" "Cause I’m stupid." FA: Mark Churchill | 20m | |||
Urbenville The Crown | |||||
21 | The James Scott Memorial Diet
Follow the system of corners up and step L on to slab, passing BR's to CB.(BR's, SLCD's, wires) Start: Apparently pretty damn hard. Climb arête L of large tree, which is in turn L of a large fallen tree and stump hole. FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Alistair Byrom | 40m | |||
19 | ★★ Sceptre
A pleasant mixed route following the line of least resistance. Start: From large stump hole move up slab about 5m to dish and a single BR belay (If using a 50m rope, use a sling to clip into bolt as leader will need all the rope to get to first CB).
FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 95m, 2 | |||
17 | Foreign Accent Syndrome
Head up L side of hanging block to flake up L side of block to bolt belay. (BR's & SLCD's) Start: Several metres L of a broken corner with a large stump and a fallen tree, about 20m R of stump hole. FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Ian Harrison | 25m | |||
19 | Texas Chainsaw Massacre
Start: Directly up from broken stump.
Ross Ernst, Colin Carstens 18/10/2008 FA: Ian Harrison, Mark Plenderlieth (p1), Ross Ernst & Colin Carstens (p2) | 25m, 2, 18 | |||
18 | Slip-Sceptre linkup
Traverses left following the upwards trending overlap. Mind some loose blocks in the middle. Start: Start at the anchors at the top of Slip. | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Gearbox Gastro
Quite testing. 3m R of 'Slapp'. Up slab passing two BR's to large SLCD placement and BR. Up steep section passing a FH (crux) to overlap, and on to CB. (BR's, FH's & SLCD's) FA: Andrew Horchner | 25m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Slither
Solid at the grade, but excellent. Up slab clipping FH's to obvious triangular tooth. Once up steepness and at the overlap, head L to lower-off at top of Gearbox Gastro. FH's and cams. FA: Alistair Byrom, Ken Cox & R. Byrom | 25m | |||
17 | ★★ Unknown 2
FA: Probably Pete Schmidt, 1996 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | Treddle
Quite varied. This climb starts 3m L of the top of the small ridge about 20m R of Easement. Climb up slab heading L to a vegetated corner and FH. Up slab through branches of squiggly gum to blunt arête. Up arête to ledge. Off ledge and up to CB past small wire placements. FA: Ken Cox & Mark Plenderlieth | 30m | |||
15 | ★ Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom | 65m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Wasted Days and Wasted Nights LHV
FA: Peter Schmidt & James Fisher, 1996 | 20m, 2 | |||
17 | Unknown 4
First route up dirty wall past a few BR's. FA: Unknown, 1996 | 20m | |||
22 | Penile Warts
Start at warty tree. Up corner to small tree stump. Clip BR on L then up to second BR and traverse to the L. Up past another two BR's and a small wire over the lip if you feel it is required, then up to chain belay. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 22m | |||
20 | Imaginary Invalid
Start at the left arête of the above mentioned slab. Head up to the large flake past two BR's. The third BR is out on the L on top of the flake, a medium cam is required out to the R. Follow the line of least resistance past seven BR's to chain belay. FA: Alistair Byrom, Ken Cox & M. Byrom | 45m | |||
18 | Flatulence
Up slab past SLCD slot and across to the R (long BR). Make your way back L under roof past nose (big SLCD) and up to the big hole (BR). From here zig-zag through break in wall past two BR's. Once on slab, follow breaks to chain belay. (BR's, #2.5 & ~#4 SLCDs & medium wires) FA: M. Byrom & R. Byrom | 35m | |||
21 | Unknown 6
Reputedly good and hard. Great pinches through the overhang. Up the slab heading for the big white stripe on the steep wall up high passing 4 BR's to get there. Climb the steep stain past another BR, then keep going following the bolts. FA: Andrew Horchner | ||||
18 | ★★ Wasp
Up almost horizontal flake to natural gear in corner. Up slab to BR. Traverse L to corner crack, an #11 hex can be fiddled into hole. Thence to the R and up crack to CB. FA: Ken Cox, R. Byrom & Alistair Byrom | 45m | |||
22 | Flakes Away
Start as for Wasp. Up to ledge at 5m, then up to BR. Continue up past small cam and another four BR's. From fifth BR trend L to chain belay. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 45m | |||
16 | Streak
10m R. Apparently the streak up the vague L-facing corner has been done without bolts. Meander up to tree belay.. | 15m | |||
13 | Ugly Duckling
The black, L-trending wide crack up the slab ending at a tree belay. | 20m | |||
Urbenville Vesuvius | |||||
23 | ★★ Blowing Smoke
The splitter crack - all trad, starting at the huge, deep pockets just off the ground. Bouldery start. Cool roof to negotiate at ⅔ height. Some friable rock above here, but opportunity to get lots of gear in. Bolted rap station. Take wires and a double rack of cams to #4 BD size. FFA: Lee Cujes, 2014 | 25m | |||
Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield North West Face (Main Wall) | |||||
18 | ★★ Crazy Moon
Crazy Moon 240m 18
FA: Brad Carmady & Phil Box, 2007 | 240m, 9 | |||
25 | ★★★ Escension
A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it. Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers. There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.
Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet) FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2001 FA: Phil Box, Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon & Will Dameron, 2001 | 260m, 9 | |||
25 | Escension free description
FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2002 | 330m, 9 | |||
19 | ★★ Cloud Catcher
Access to the start of this climb is via the approach slabs for Escension then aid and climb the first pitch of Escension. first pitch of Escension is now A1. 17.
FA: Phil Box, Brad Carmady & Josh Combes, 2006 | 250m | |||
22 | A Pod o Lips Now
Start is high on the vegetated slabs on the far right hand end of the Shield. Finding the start is the crux I am sure but if one were to head over to the descent gully then work back say 50 metres and then head somewhat up then that is an approximation of where to go.The start is also about 80 metres up the vegetated apron. there is an obvious chimney on the wall proper.
FFA: Phil Box & Colin Carstens., 2008 | 220m | |||
Cape Byron Light house Cliff | |||||
12 | Brace Your Self
First solid grey gully from end of beach. Start at the back of the gully on good rock. Bridge up gully then trend left on loose but easy rock at the top. ( I avoided the tempting arette due to poor rock) Belay & ab off tree. FA: Eric Milton & Rob Bracher, 18 Mar 2023 | 25m | |||
14 | Violet Crumble
Start 6m right of B.Y.S. Pull up left into the flake crack system. Follow it up then trend right to sub pinnacle. Avoiding loose rock ( pull down not out ) . Decent by sea saw abseil, or down climb Die For Gear. FA: Eric Milton & Rob Bracher, 18 Mar 2023 | 16m | |||
10 | Die For Gear
15m on from B.Y.S Gully . Scramble up the corner then back and foot to the top. Finishes at top of Violet crumble. Down climb or ab. FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
12 | Facial
The next 3 climbs are about 70m further on in " The Day Spa ". A compact black cliff with good natural features. Facial climbs the right leaning flake / crack system . Starting at the right end of a large boulder. Finishing in the corner of Massage. FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
10 | Massage
Climb the good left leaning corner up the middle of the face. 6m left of Facial. FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
12 | Day Spa
Start in the corner as Massage. Climb rightwards over the slab to a bulge with good undercling pockets. continue up and over to glory. FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
Rainbow Rock | |||||
19 | ★★ epic deception
dagerous climb. poorly protected. a bit run out between most bolts. Lots loose rock and busting holds. Almost no protection from 100m,(bolts stop with no warning at 100m,halfway up 3rd pitch. anchor of to right hard to find) climb obviously un-finished.Possible micro-cam placement about 10m-15m after bolts stop. Lots of loose rock, dirty. Had to anchor on to bolders, ran out of rope (50m). loose bolt plates on second pitch. Holds break most of the way up. 4 pitch climb. 1st-40m, 2nd-35m, 3rd-50m, 4th-25m. Only decent path through thick bush, down south side... FFA: john, 2000 | 150m, 4, 12 | |||
14 | invisible touch
small crack line on lower wall FFA: Za Utopia, 2012 | 8m | |||
Boonoo Boonoo Falls | |||||
14 R | ★★ Belvedere Route
Climbs the left side of the falls. FA: Neill Lamb, Julie Henry & Frank Theos | 180m | |||
Surf Rock | |||||
18 | ★★ eagle fly
5m right of TB. Up corner to small roof. To TB chain FFA: Za Utopia, 2012 | 15m | |||
18 | just for fun
Start 2m right EF straight up over small roof. FFA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia & Phoenix, 2012 | 15m | |||
15 | ★ two believe
One bolt at the top. start 2m right of JFF. up slab to corner then left to chain. FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia., 2012 | 15m, 1 | |||
19 | moonlight drive
10m right of TB. up wall to roof, then onto slab wall to finish. top out. | 23m, 2 | |||
15 | Sacred Union
Climb 2m left of BA, up slightly steeper face upto nose with sharp edges... use rope protector when abseiling in. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 16m | |||
13 | Break Away
2m L of Back in Black. Follow Crack line at the top section. Some loose rock at the top. FA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 2013 | 16m | |||
15 | Back in Black
Next climbs access from out the end of headland.2 m left of EJ about 15m right of moonlight drive.Climb big black slab wall FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2013 | 15m | |||
13 | Eagle Jets
start 10m R of MD. Up wall. Pro not great, but do able. FA: 2013 FFA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 12m | |||
16 | outsiders
start inbetween EJ & CL. up slab wall over the nose FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 12m | |||
14 | Jupiter Maxiumus
start 3m R of EJ. up arete though chimney. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2013 | 12m | |||
17 | Into the mystical
start on wall under roof on the corner. Up wall over corner of roof. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 14m | |||
20 | Dragon teeth
start 2m R of ITM up small wall over roof. Sharp edges cut through my 11mm rope when top roping... FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 15m |
Showing all 49 routes.