Routes in Northern Tablelands for selected grade

Sit start on wedges right side of main block and move up trending right of block/slab via crimp and jugs. Quite awkward landing be careful, may want a spotter.

Start on the large detached stone as per S11 but utilize both sides of the crack to gain the top. Easiest way down off the house size bloc.

Wall and crack on the Western aspect of the larger Salisbury Hot! boulder. Easiest descent route of the bloc remember your sequence.

Same wall as CSH!B Wall & Crack eliminating the crack.

Climbs left side of the very blunt arete/rib (Junior Burger) via small but good crimps, bit of a one move wonder.

Sit start as per the descent routes, move up and right to the crack system then traverse right using the slopey arete to finish up NE5. Longer and bit easier than NE5, not as good.

Pure Evil. Could clean up if enough holds snap and human sacrifices are made. If you do decide to climb it and top out, highly advisable to watch The Omen Trilogy all the way through at least once, don't make the deal as that's a long way back even if you're a Winchester.

Start: The classic of the cliff. Many variants are possible. Start near the corner of Dreadnought at an old piton, a couple meters left of the orange column.

1. 30m. Straight up the steps. Belay on the most convenient ledge.

2. 50m. Continue straight up. You will eventually come to a slightly overhanging short crack corner. Up this, onto ledge then continue up to large ledge at the base of a layback crack corner. Belay.

3. 50m. Layback/bridge up the corner, then move across to the slightly vegetated wall above, and continue up the wall. Belay wherever convenient.

4. 35m. Continue straight up till you can move in right , behind a large block. Belay.

5. 30m.+ (crux) Up the steep wall beside the water course, picking the easiest line to the top. The exit is awkward and exposed.

Start: Corner crack about 20m. right of F.C.

Pleasant, well protected climbing up corner crack.

Start: The crack between R.G. and Zig Zag.

Up the crack for 30m. (some rotten rock) over the bulge and either up the slabs to the right, or continue up the corner crack

Easy hold, dyno to right jug

A thin slab on the wall just uphill a couple meters from the bus driver boulder.

2m north of Sloper boulder at base of the Fin. SDS on slopers and up the Fin for a move or two then head L to join Fun Fin at the crimp edge then up.

Up the right side of this well featured and somewhat mossy but climbable face.

Easy slab

Sit start on the big flak, go straight up on big holds. Good warm-up, variations exist to make it more difficult. Walk off to the right.

Start: 1m right of Elevator, the corner before the main wall.

Straight up the corner, a few layback moves provide the interest.

Start: Just left of Anticipation/Hope. Easy slab then an off-width.

Up slab to ledge. Up off-width to ledge; traverse left and easily to top.

Start: The crack on the ledge left of faith.

Hard start, then easier jamming to top.

Interesting boulder start into a crack and then over too quickly

2m left of the normal start. This avoids the fine crack. Up the wide crack.

Start: The corner near a river oak right of Another One Bites The Dust.

Up corner crack to slanting roof, right onto edge, then right up flake crack.

Start: 10m down right from W.t.M.

Up obvious flake to top.

Start: As for Motorhead Madness.

Up corner as for Motorhead Madness, then onto ledge. Up flake, then arête to top.

Start: The left leaning crack on the right side of the upstream face.

Up crack with a tricky move at the top. Belay can be tricky to arrange.

Start: a wall split with large cracks.

Up the cracks on the front of the broken block. At about l7m traverse right, then up crack to top.

Start: A fine crack to the right of ‘Schizophrenic’.

1. 22m Up thin crack, blocks and ledges to base of a short crack. Up this to ledge.

2. 26m As for second pitch of ‘Serenity’.

Start: Towards the middle of the slabs, a rightward trending crack, heavily vegetated.

1. 15m Up crack, trending right to tree belay.

2. 25m Follow line right to belay on top of a large loose flake.

3. 30m Direct to top.

Start: At almost the very base of the descent gully.

1. 10m Up slab to lefthand corner.

2. 20m Up lefthand corner, left easily then up right to base of flake.

3. 15m Up flake then vegetated crack to below final block.

4. 15m Left until you can get onto the scrubby top.

Start: The first line from the lefthand end of the cliff. 4m left of ‘Payolla’.

Up crack and around roof to top.

A real grunt!

Start: The chimney to the right of ’Working Class Heroes’.

Scramble up gully to above tree and good ledge. Follow crack up left wall of chimney

Wide bridging and swiveling.

Start: below prominent chimney.

1. 15m Up chimney to shut down roof affair, past side.

2. 20m (crux) Wide chimney to large blocks on North side.

3. 6m Cross link boulder, then to top.

Nicely composed in a prime position, about 30m left of the main wall, facing south. Very pleasant.

Layaway to start, then jambs and a slab above

Start: A picturesque slab with faded memories of a close shave. Between Macadamia and Elite Style, at the fig tree, Take a wire brush.

Up diagonally left of the fig tree to a slight crack, then up to a thin crack. Keep going to where it steepens and a right-hand corner starts. p towards an off-width on the left and exit up a crack through some vines. Easier blocks and wall to top.

Down the gully from High Mass are two roof problems. This climb takes the easier left roof.

1. 12m. Up wide crack then step up left and around the roof.

Start; 1m right of Digit Dancer. Can be partly covered in vines but is easy to clean. Wall climbing and jamming to top

Start: The slabby lay-away corner 10m up and across right from 'Enfant Terrible'.

1. 20m Up lay-away line, then on up chimney to large ledge.

2. 7m Around right, then up chimney (this pitch is contrived and rarely repeated).

Start on orange wall around from 'Little Hands' and directly beneath roof.

1. 15m (14). Up flake crack, to ledge. Up diagonally R through blocks to roof, traverse R to the base of 'Little Hands'. Belay off Acacia/vertical crack. Climb 'Little Hands' or walk out.

There's a man-hole atop the chimney!

Start: Short recessed offwidth with black/grey granite at it's back -left of 'Colonial Daze'.

Chimney style to where cracks in the right wall provide sound holds. Up to chock stones and man-hole - swing out and around to either right or left hand deep crack finishes (.5m apart).

Start: As for Speleocide. An excellent steep start.

1. 1. Up the corner (crux) to the large triangular ledge. Step left around bulge and up to grassy ledge.

2. 30m. Straight up then slightly right to overhang. Step up slabs on the left and straight to top. Tree belay.

Start: At the top of the 4th pitch of Skylite and is virtually a variant finish.

1. 18m Step right off the roof and into a shallow groove, and up to next ledge.

2. 18m Up crack to block, traverse around to the right-hand side of the block. Up the crack, onto the ledge on the nose. Then up crack in wall to top.

Start: Best do this in summer. A chimney with a chockstone at about half-way. I can’t remember where it starts. Not far from the Western end of the cliff.

1. 40m. Up twin cracks then left to base of chimney. Out and around a squeeze then deeper into chimney. Up the crack deep in the chimney (crux) , move up to and squeeze inside the chockstone, then up to belay where chimney becomes horizontal.

2. 23m. Follow the horizontal chimney through to the other side of the mountain.

Off the top of the block leaning against the boulder.

Undercut the rightward-trending diagonal crack to juggy flakes.

On the small boulder facing the main slabs. Easy nose right of the crack.

On the small boulders facing the main slabs. Easy problem through small overlap on slab.

Start: 2m left of ‘Little Wonder’.

Up crack to top

Start: The flake crack 4m right of ‘True Confessions’.

Up the crack.

A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.

Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.

A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.

Start: 1m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up wall to crack then to top.

Start: 5m left of ‘Resurrection Shuffle’

Up off width to top.

Start: 4m left of ‘Speakeasy’.

Up off width in corner, bridging moves near top.

Start: A short jam crack at the far left hand end of Dead Heroes Buttress.

Up crack, then move right to finish up as for ‘Long Haired Lout’.

Start: 1m right of ‘Malcolm Fraser’s Rearend’.

Up crack using right crack at top.

Start: Left of ‘On the Piss’.

Onto block then up twin cracks.

Start: On the bushy ledge.

Bridge up the alcove.

Sit start at the obvious crack, left up to under cling, decent crimp top right and beach whale or mantle over the top

Undercling overlap and up

On the left side of the West crack

Easy crack warmup, bum start of the Tooth

Start: Right of Playground. Below the middle of a horizontal crack. Tricky start to easy slab climbing.

1. 15m. Up on leftward sloping edge to crack, then up easy slab to big tree.

2. 30m. Up slab to top.

Start: At the left-hand end of the buttress, a chimney. A struggle. Marked with 'Zex'

20m. Up the off-width/chimney to top of block, then up groove on right.

Start: Approx 10m right of Legler Sharp etc. route. A slab below a large fig tree on a ledge. Originally had one piton for aid, now free. Right and left hand variants have been done also, for the 2nd pitch.

1. 20m. Up the slab to fig tree, then up crack to ledge.

2. 40m. Up the nose of the buttress to a steep wall, across the base and up to ledge. Continue up to the top of the blocks, traverse left across slab (peg used for aid here) Up over nose and up to ledge.

3. 10m. Up crack and wall to top.

Up the way down off this boulder.

Practice balancing up crystals and tiny edges.

Very easy mantel to a one slab move to top.

Layback up the detached flake.

3 fixed hangers to a cam break. Friction climbing and some good holds to calm the nerves. finish at shared anchor with Angry Man.

Obvious crack on southeast face. Climb up or down it.

The crack on the right side of boulder.

Up the low angle wide crack, via old fashioned thrutching.

5m south of the heelgood boulder

Up the hand crack on left side of face, up to horizontal crack, then right to far corner & up. Gear to 5". Gear anchor required.

Up the hand crack on left side of face, up to horizontal crack, then right to far corner & up. Gear to 5". Gear anchor required.

Up the left arete created by the wide crack in the boulder, past 4 bolts to a lower off.

The very easy low angle arete on left half of split boulder.

Up twin cracks.

Easy mantel off good edge.

Very easy slab. Down climb for all other problems on boulder.

Almost one move mantle

Start left, go right

Feet on break then up

Very easy short mantel.

Must be done in flip flops

The best decent route to access more of the climbing at Duffer Falls, also the easiest exit route,

9 FH natural anchor at the top

Starts down right of NF up twin cracks past small tree, continue across slab left to anchor

straight up the gouges

up then along the top

start on the right and arete to the left.

up through the middle of the two

Easy slab, easiest spot to get off too.

The crux is down low and once on is a nice layback/ slab crack.

up the left, avoid using the log to pull up.

Up the obvious features on south west side. Use plenty of pads, there is a large stone on the landing.

Start by crimp and left hand large jug

Start with the two side pulls, smear and bump up to any number of sharp jugs.

Avoid touching the tree, look for the bommer beneath the lomandra.