Routes as boulder in New South Wales and ACT

9a+ Route. 44+ Moves. Start as for Short Fuse, reversing Anger Management finish as for Supercharged (Centrelink Sponsorship into Major Lightweight). Some serious nec level climbing. R. Hofmann

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

9a Route. 44+ Moves. Start as for Short Fuse, reversing Anger Management finish as for Turbo Deluxe (Rodeo Clown into Major Lightweight). Some serious climbing and next level power endurance needed.

R. Hofmann

Original Vision by Byron Glover. Another epic quest now complete. Centrelink Sponsorship into Major Lightweight. R. Hofmann

"THE LINE" at the Cave.

What may initially appear to be pretty straight forward soon becomes a realisation of clarity!

Climb Rodeo Clown into Major Lightweight.

R. Hofmann

Reverse Rodeo Clown direct into Persistence finishing as per this. Epic Power Endurance!! 8c+ Route

R. Hofmann

Lower right start to J1.

Climb Academic revision to the slopey jug on the lip. Then reverse room with a view back to the sloths crux, finishes as sloths in the attic. Fight the pump!

Starts the same as Academic Revision but after the hard pinch move you go across via some techy moves into the start of Sinusoidal and finish this topping out the cliff. A PE feat.

Reverse Rodeo Clown into Yo Mama (Anger Management exiting Persistence) Some decent power endurance! Easy V14? 8c/+ Route

R. Hofmann

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis

Tom Farrell

Sit start out steep wall to the slab top out.

Sit start and out the steep wall heading left to top out through the ‘skylight’ hole up high on the left.

Sit-starts at bottom of dihedral and climbs to top of dihedral finish at juggy 2 finger and cod-mouth jug over lip - easier since a new foot sequence was discovered, compared to original crux-pounce that Tom did Sam Healy

Start one hand under the roof on the decent undercut and one hand with the hold on the lip, traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo". Originally started under the roof with 2 undercuts which is now broken, starting one move higher brings the grade down from the original v14.

Reverse Rodeo Clown to the start of Anger Management, get a decent rest and the finish as per Anger Management. Fun Power Endurance. Could be V12. 8b+/c Route

R. Hofmann

Sit-Start at the Letterbox Slot on the right hand entrance of the cave just before the end of Rodeo Clown. Reverse Rodeo Clown, into Persistence and finishing as for Anger Management. A fair bit of climbing involved. Could be V12? 8b+/c Route

R. Hofmann

Start at the big Hueco at the back right hand side of the cave. Climb diagonally left joining Persistence after about 12+ moves, finishing as per this. Long and pumpy!!

R. Hofmann

30 moves following the obvious line in roof. Up there with the bests of Sydney.

Stand start on the undercling. Move up using the sidepulls and a lack of footholds to reach the victory jug and to top out.

Elijah Mercado

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

Sugoi is a word that's typically used when you're left awestruck out of excitement or feel overwhelmed. It can also be used to express that something is terrible or dreadful.

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

Elijah Mercado

As for 'Deep Blue Sea', once at the lip finish up 'Cruel Sea' Dylan Soin

An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit.

Tom O'Halloran

Connor Lucas

Sit start to Daoism.

Tom Farrell

Starts near fallen block on undercling for right hand and sloper for left, big dynamic move over block to sloper then up through edges in cave and top out as for everest. Repeated 1/5/05 by Sharik Walker

Climb "Academic Revision" through to the finish of "Room with a view" traverse right through some crimps to the obvious flat ledge of "Sinusoidal" and head directly up the slab, with some spooky feet to top out.

Links Academic Revision into Dr Bob top out.

Start about 3m to the right of "Room with a View" matched on jug at back of cave and climb virtually directly out of the roof, towards the same finish jug as "Room with a view" continue left topping out as for "Room with a better view"

Awesome moves starting as a sds back in the cave traversing through all three layers of granite, out, around and then up to top out.

Crouch start on right hand incut crimp and left hand terrible sidepull. Hard move into start of Matty's Dyno to finish as for that problem

Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us.

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right.

First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me."

Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton | Sam Farrar

Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision.

Stand start on two tiny crimps, move up and right to the big shield and then top out the proud arete

Stand start from left hand crimp and low right hand undercling, up prow to insecure top out.

The impossible line directly above the Phone Diddle start. Sit start at the ledge, move to some tiny crimps then up through some imaginary slopers to top out.

Details unknown.

Squat start on two horizontal edges at same height and out the steep prow to top out.

Squat start compressed, up on slopers compressing rounded arete to top out high slab.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Really great and unique overhanging roof coffin. Sit-starts low on right hand pinch and left positive side-pull. Thug up left and and start slapping. Finishes on obvious big juggy break above the coffin.

Start and climb Ram Raid, continue up and and right via additional moves to join the scoop of Undertow/Tube surfing via a big huck, then continue up & TOP OUT. Can be finished standing in the scoop if so desired. Take caution if topping out. The FA cleaned and practiced this on a rope prior to sending.

Start on the starting holds of Pearl Necklace but head left via shallow underclings and pockets to finish up Bumpy Boys.

Start as for Jug to Jug to the LH slot but then head left across Turbo Guns via two difficult cross overs to finish left of that problem.

Start on the undercling and move up to the two crimps, then a long move to the first break. Go straight up from here to the next break it's Australia's first V11.

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

Slot currently broken. Much much harder now.

Makes Joe, Joe Dynamo (Lot 33) feel like a walk in the park. Consensus upgrade from V11.

Start as for "Persistence", following the right side of holds approximately 2 meters. Just after the deep two finger pocket climb towards the big Hueco on the lower right side of the cave. Climb the far right side of the cave to finish on the start rail of "Major Lightweight".

Byron Glover R. Hofmann

Start as for 'From Dust Till Dawn, head back to the start of Anger Management and climb this all the way. Adds a fair bit more decent climbing.

R. Hofmann

Start as From Dust Till Dawn, head through Persistence and finish as per Anger Management. Another obvious fun enduro classic!!

R. Hofmann

Start and climb as for Anger Management, exit as for Persistence. Spicy finish and hard for the grade.

R. Hofmann

Sit start as for Anger Management, following the right side of holds leading to a big move to a crimpy blob/shield like feature and then a good jug rest. Connect back into "Anger Management" following its sloppy crack line, turning about a meter before the crack opening. Then head directly out towards the front of the cave via a large jug and some sharp underlings. Top out as for "Anger Management".

Byron Glover

R. Hofmann

Sketchy all points off dyno up high.

"Grimacing" into Agent Orange.

Stretch finishing up For Sissies. No pads to cheat the start.

Same handholds as for Bowels of the Devil, but starting with a high right toehook. No dynamic movements or pads to cheat the start, just strict flexibility. Hard to grade.

Start matched on the sidepull, make a hard move right into the start position of Bowels. Was thought to be the actual start of Bowels.

Starts as a sit/crouch start on the chalk at the far right of the crumbly cave and then up the “v3” and into the roof to finish on the last big jug (same finish as leviticus)

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Sam Healy

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

R. Hofmann

Start as for nasty and go directly upwards finishing last moves as for RBTL.

Tom Farrell

Big first move to finish straight up the ramp.

Low start to Romper Stomper.

Sam Healy

Shared start with Obsession.

Keep traversing left on some small edges until you reach the flake, joining the crux of Moments Of The Past.

Liam Healy

Start matched on the 2 crimpy underclings, traverse right and do a big dynamic move to a good edge on the break. Finish matched on the big horn just behind the ledge.

Sit start on the jug under the rooflet and follow the arete all the way to the top of the block.

Might need a brush as it's getting mossy again.

Sit start on the scoop and move left using some crimps to gain the big rail before doing a huge span out left to join Odin's Raven.

A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent.

Elijah Mercado Sam Healy

Grubby paw direct but exiting via blue and green directly over. Just gave it a twelve based on grubby paw direct, most likely everything here could drop by one.

Start & finish as for Grubby Paw but direct to hueco as for The Smiling Assassin.

Chris Beers Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Alec Landstra (post breakage)

Stand start in the break. Tough move through rounded pinch/layaway dish to slot then up slab. Given V10 by James.

Desperate rounded sidepull climbing in the alley up the face.

Left of The Pincer Movement, follow chalked cobwebbed crack.

Elijah Mercado

Start on the shield, up to a crimp then massive dyno to the jug.

Paul's Present finishing up Exit Wounds.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Contact finishing up Savage

The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful.

Start Warmup Warren and traverse right into Tiny Defence.

The contender for best in the cave? Climb as for 'Sloths in the attic' to the the big jug rail, from here traverse the lip back-towards 'Room with a better view" through some small edges and a tough cut. Top out as for "Room with a better view'

roof, no top out

Described in Rock Magazine #48 as incredibly thin and powerful.

6 moves, SDS

Start as for Silent Bob Low, and climb directly out via the micro crimp, skipping the wet rail from Silent Bob. Once on the soccer ball sloper after the lip go directly to the jug. The other holds further right on the ledge are out.

Start down in the little cave and power your way up through the crimps and pockets, heading left and linking into Little Spoon. (Open project with proposed grade of v11/12)

Dishonour into Dust Management. 50 moves of hard v13.

Squat start on good side pulls and up burly compression on small holds. Super sick

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start on high crimps and follow line of small crimps to the top.

Start as for Phone Sex and finish through Shape Shifters.

Start for Vendetta, then drop down into the underclings, make some hard moves through underclings and slopers finishing out the top of the boulder (as for Vendetta or the Joker).

CMCC

Left side of the large face at the top of the crag, one of the first boulders if approaching from the top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTyUKfN2aVE