Routes as sport in New South Wales and ACT

Tiny crimps. Short and sweet.

Short and balancy. will be Ok once the moss wears off a bit! Hard 21.

An exciting excursion and esiest line through the big roof. Start as for Myopia and follow the line of bolts right and up the headwall.

The first slabby half of 'Panthera' finishing below the chossy cave. Quality marbled rock all the way but without traffic it gets sand from above on the holds.

The Mosquito Slap of New Nowra - an epic wall with some sections of choss, but very well bolted. First 3 bolts of Tiger Tales then traverse left and up marbled wall on excellent rock to first set of anchors. Continue up steep and exposed right side of chossy cave to final pumpy juggy finish as for Tiger Tales. Watch rope length on lower-off!

Start: 2m right in gully finishing on New Nowra is Old News anchors.

On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish.

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

Start up Omega Free and traverse through Ados route and fishermans basket to anchors of Tartar.

Start as for Cenotaph Corner Down Under, swing out right on large jug, clip the first bolt with the hanger then straight up using the pockets someone just put there for this climb, passing two carrots to the top.

Start on left side of wall and head up rightward past 4 bolts to anchors

Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade.

The left side of the arete to LGS. Climbs quite differently, then share final 2 bolts to anchor of MOL

John Wildes route starting from ledge into offwidth and then up overhanging arete

Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up.

Runs through left edge of cavelet. Straight up to ring lower-offs.

Start from ledge to left of La Sancta Wall. Up corner then traverse left to arete and delicately up, traverse left to anchors.

Go up from belay on P1. Turn roof with the aid of the left crack.

Start as for CoF for 3 Bolts then head up right through step wall

Climb TT for 2 bolts then steep left onto Orange section. Head up past three more bolts to anchors.

2m right of MP Bouldery start.

Blinded by the White direct finish with a really long span from good pocket to sidecling. Not yet bolted but worked on top-rope. Will be in the high 20s.

Amazing limestone like pockets makes for some very cool climbing. Start left of hanging garden. Juggy steep start rightwards to sequency magic pockets. After these crank bulge then final pumpy headwall on large pockets and crimps. Amazing all the way.

Very unique for sandstone and quite sustained. Lots of great holds - the top half is French limestone like solution pockets, all facing downwards! Bouldery start over the undercut, then up the orange rock on flaky pockets to horizontal. Left and up into the perfect pockets with some incredible undercling moves to gain the steep juggy orange jugs to finish out right. Suffers from heavy seepage on one hold near the top of the route.

Not yet bolted, but looks about 28ish.

Hard campus start mounting undercut, then thin moves to bigger pockets. Head right up tasty orange slots to arete. For the full tick climb past the anchors using sneaky knee-bar to higher hold on arete (anchor should have been here). Backjump to anchor.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Pocket Rocket'

Immaculate rock and a slick slopey crux. Stem up tree for a metre to gain rock then take left line of bolts up very nice pocketed grey wall to blankness and big bolt. Sneak left to find hidden pocket, fiffle with some sketchy feet then back right to big sloper pocket. Long move then finish up orange bulge. If you lower-off the big bolt at the half-way point its a classic grade 16.

Great face climbing on crimps and pockets. Middle line of bolts on this wall, starting as for Lost for Profit. Lower off single large u-bolt when the rock turns blank.

Black pockets to gain slab - then right line of bolts to hit left end of roof crack. Jam up corner crack and finish with powerful sloper mantle finale on gorgeous orange rock.

Start: Starts 10m right of 'Pocket Rocket' right of the big tree.

Batman Start 4m left of Evil E. A Pumper! Awesome!

A brief bulge and then it is slab city. Remember, friends don't let friends do slabs!

5m right of 'Sun Dew' and right of major corner. Boulder over the undercut, up the jugs then traverse right across steep face to punchy finish. 'Fantastic' rock.

Start: Behind the big boulder. Scramble up a few metres then up the nice twin cracks to a big ledge. Up the wall above (3 manky BRs) to a big chossy cave. Up the inside of the cave and over the top. Tree belay. FAR: Tony Burns, Andrew Barker 17/02/2007

Start up the obvious easiest line as for Corner From Hell then wandering right at one third height and balance up the headwall, joining Chicken.

The right hand route. Sweet moves to good rest then bouldery crux... awesome

Start from the left side of the wall. Move right on good holds to big dyno then tough moves to the top...stay out of the cave!!

Start at the only breach of the roof 5m left of Supernova. Fun and pumpy climbing with a punchy start. Climb the roof then follow the direct line to the top.

Technical slab climbing. Start 10m left of Boogie Nights. Route has two holes in the bulge up high. Climb slab to tricky mid section then bulge above.

Great climbing with shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon. Lots of bolts and plenty of stylish moves. Hard for the grade!

Steep problem tending right then up. Mostly 19-21 moves with a single 23 sequence near the beginning. Very stylish climbing.

On the left side of the crag coming down the stairs, third route along. Nice rock in the sun all day, and out of the wind! Good bit of winter rock!

Right of the hand crack, feel free to use it

Fingery start to same anchors as FM

Up past side pulls and long move to jug. More easily up orange rock

clip the anchors of route on carrots and keep going up the steep wall on RBs

1m right of offwidth and up to share anchors. Unfortunately the easiest way to the anchors is via the offwidth after the last bolt.

Start 4m right of offwidth. Up to pocket then nice moves to break and slopers and hidden holds to top out. Anchors up slab. Take two 4m slings to top rope or rap off

Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB.

Start at the sheoak stump onto large boulder on ledge and top out to rap anchor

To the left of the high cave. Up to ledge then slopers to top out to shared rap anchor

Thin holds to slopy mantle, finish just above horizontal ledge

Short, sharp, bouldery arête on the Guns, Germs and Steel block at the mouth of the dark chasm. Has two bolts and a single bolt lower-off that looks a little rusty as of 2021...

Original description: Around left from Bindun in a small dark chasm.

Up the arete At arete on the right hand side of the compact wall Thug to block, pull through on finger jugs to balancy finish

Use the crack to gain the first bolt. Make a long reach left to great pockets and finish on jugs to the top. Over too soon. Start just left of the crack.

Hard pulls through the scoop. Great jugs to the top. Start below the left hand arete of the sundeck ledge.

Great climbing with a low down crux and good rock. May the force be with you.

Start: When you walk out of the bottom of the access slot this is the first route on the main wall.

Great climb, though you will need to read the rock to get through sections without having to bust your arse cranking some hard stuff.

Start: Under easy blocky arrangement that access the left side of the ledge that runs across the middle of the cliff.

This route shares the start off the ledge with two others and follows the left line of bolts.

Start: Shares same start as 'Trilobutt' to the ledge.

Top break to break climbing. Not completely bolted by the Aliens who were scared off before they could glue the bolts into the rock. Now sports more rings than a poofters camp.

Start: As for the Bum-eyed Bumosaur though this route is the direct line.

Great climbing up a really nice orange streak of hard rock.

Start: Third route in the off the ledge trilogy. This is the right hand one.

Great climbing break to break. Which translates to OK if you have the reach but can be a little technical if you bum drags close to the ground.

Start: At the right hand side of the ledge are various lines of bolts that you can follow to get to the ledge. Choose one that will limit the rope drag as this climb goes up the left side of the crack.

This route goes up right of the crack for pure fun!!?

Start: At one of the lines of bolts that will get you to the ledge.

This route was established by the Alien Visitation Crew who stuck bolts in over the top and screwed it up for a lower off. They also had British steel balls and ran it out between bolts so i fixed all that rubbish.

Start: In the corner at the right hand side of the ledge. Same place as the previous two routes.

Another route established by the AVC with no top anchors except the ones way over the top past the crud. Great bit of rock when you get onto it. Top anchors added later for your convienience.

Start: On slab to the right of 'Muscle Thruster'.

Bolted by the RAT in his come back days but proved a bit too stiff. Start at the crack as for 'Plasto Bambola'. Go right? Graded 25 on the ACA guide. Who knows if it's even been done?

Steep climbing, out the 45deg wall, short but pumpy.

Starting 2m from the left arete, out through the steep cave.

Good holds up face to a giant leap through the cave to top out.

Right hand end of main cave. Up left of the arete on the slopey holds to lower off.

Left most climb on the first cave you get to walking up the track. Lower of under small rooflet.

Start in back of cave, out lip and up on crimpers to lower off under rooflet.

Tough dyno start to a hard move to pull lip and head up crimpers to lower off.

Hex bolts to lower off outside cave.

Up the nice orange/red rock moving leftward at the 3rd bolt. Then cast off left from good block to slopey crimpers and reachy moves, to get across to 4th bolt. Trend up and left to get stood up via little footers. Great technical climbing, that is well protected.

First line of bolts inside the cave. Climb to the ledge then lean back to the small roof and follow right to anchors. Alt start also known as Spider Pig

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.

Up slopes to undercling, then hard move to gain upper section of cave. Move left on slopey ledge to exciting sitting finish.Starts just after the first pinch gap on the low bolt. Back jump to clean.

Climb the first four bolts on fishermans basket through short roof then right to anchors.

Easily up wall to tough move below roof.

Follow (6) carrots through slopey goodness

Slopey underclinging. Same start as 'Lobster' for the first 2 bolts then trend left onto 3 bolts to finish at 'Second Cave Carrots' anchors.

Original line bolted ground up, easier line moving slightly right to lower off under roof.

Up 'Lobster', Diagonally right then through roof flake to lower off.

An epic line that follows The Red into Roast Lobster Mornay all the way to the top of the cave.

First climb outside of the cave on the right side. Long way to the first bolt, probably best to stick-clip

Second climb out from the cave on the right side. 3 bolts to double rings at the top

At low flake. Move from low flake to slightly wet dominant pocket (I've heard people describe their wives this way!). Easily down climbed to clean. 3 BRs.

On left side of arete. Stem up the dihedral to start then follow arete to top. 4 BRs to DRB lower off.

4m right of arete. Straight up. A little runout.

Obvious line up middle of left wall to DRB. Thin start but getting easier with height. 5 BRs.

2m right of S. Up. Paul Rivere's abandoned project.

2m left of M. Up passing 4 BRs. A #3.5 friend keeps the rope out of the way to start.

2m right of WIJALB at huge pocket. 1. Even looks like a great route! 6 BRs.

Start as for SS. Nice moves make a classic face climb at the grade. 6 BRs.