Routes as boulder in Binalong

Sit-start matched on a flat depression. Crank out right through a few moves using a heel hook high up to get you onto a small incut and sidepull, then up and over.

Sit start at the left end of the boulder with poor feet. Use very poor sloper holds to establish a heel hook, then head out right, through a difficult move which will require you to cut feet. The rock just below the traverse is out.

Project - lowball bumdrag, but it's undercut, has some friable holds (it's going to get harder) and good luck with your feet. Something to warm up or play around on.

Straight up the front of the boulder, through the pocket and out. Easy.

From the same start as 'Pinky Flapper', reach up to the pocket and vague pinch and get your feet set. A fair sized move out to a small incut sidepull, then up using friction and mantle on good holds.

Standing at 'Pinky Flapper', reach up to the pocket, yawn, check the time, pepper your neighbour's lawn with his clover, then trend slightly left through past some big pockets and wish you were living elsewhere.

Quite nice. Sit start using a combination of sidepulls or a very shallow incut crack. Crank up to a heel hook position using a nice sidepull, lock off, pray to Jesus, then slap out very far right to a glory pocket from an insecure position, then up.

V1 or V2, just a poor landing. Up through some poor scoops and friction moves.

Up through an easy crack, likely to be V0.

Looks easy, doesn't it? Then you realise it's stacked hand and fists to start, with a lovely drop onto a hard granite slab if you do anything wrong, and the crack widens as you go, making it a full offwidth experience with the extra spice of possibly having to roll down a hill if you fall. Easy enough if you layback and avoid using the crack, but around V1 if you go at it full offwidth style.

Extremely overhung (for granite) and likely to give someone a workout.

Follow the under/sidecling rail all the way up. Burly.

Straight up the slab.

A shorter warm-up for the area, head straight up the off-widthy crack to a low topout.

A rising traverse of the boulder from the end, out through the roof on the left side of the boulder and up. Might take a bit to clean up properly.

Straight up through the body of the boulder. Bit of a downhill landing.

Very morphological. Grading is honesty based, somewhere between V0 and V3 depending on your size. Sit start under the roof, lock off with your right hand in the crack then chuck a big move out left to a glory jug. Not terribly wonderful, to be honest.

The most obvious line that strikes you as you make your way up to the boulders. This line takes the incipient seam with insecure crack holds and the arete upwards (using the crack/boulder to the left if you need to). And it's overhung too. Very tensiony, technical but not too powerful moves for the grade.

Very nearly saw a FA on the first visit to it, but Bruno had a brainfreeze. Grade varies depending on how you approach it. The further you go out left with your body and the more you use the arete, the easier it gets. The purest line sent so far uses two holds on the arete, two sections of the seam and tops out direct with feet on the front of the boulder. It's possible there's a much harder climb for someone with finger(nail)s of steel using just the seam.

Not wonderful. Enough holds to get up, use it as a warmup. The boulder to the left of the tombstones facing up the hill.

I looked, and behold, a pale rock. Straddled upon it...

Compression moves up a blunt arete to top out at jugs over a very airy landing. This one is an absolute cracker - requires great body tension, technical moves on tenuous holds and good concentration, not to mention good skin! The full line will involve some very heady moves, particularly if done 'pure' without the assistance of the boulder to the left.

There was some question before it was attempted whether it would even be possible given the apparent spacing of the holds. It definitely goes, but it sure ain't easy.

Up the right hand side of the boulder through 'HIV??' and then traverse left on slopers with good spotters to finish up 'Deep Freeze'. In true internet tradition, someone flapped in and crapped all over this one!

A reasonably difficult leftways-leaning crack that won't take jams all the way. Hard start, quite technical. Difficulty depends on whether you can manage a high step for the first move. Otherwise the feet are atrocious!

Standing start, head up and slightly right. High step the small incut and it's a bit easier.

Burly sit start off opposing holds using a reasonable left hand rail and a nasty right hand crimp. Gotta look hard for them feet. Not a good warmup! But lowball at least. This could be your hardest V1 send ever !

Stand start on a reasonable size pocket for your right hand and a smaller pocket or crimp for your left. High step if you can for an easier start on the incut/remains of the flake. Head up for a good incut rail then left and done.

Really the direct version. Straight up on good, but quite spaced holds.

A two-move wonder, on a 30 degree overhung boulder (more like 40 for the sit). Start with left hand in the incut undercling (pretty good) and right hand in the notch. Right foot on a half-toe foetus of an incut, then shift your left leg up to a sideways heel hook. Deep breath then dyno up to a sloper ledge. Hold it right at the end of the slopers and match, and you can drop off, or you can keep going for the full route and scare yourself silly. Around V6.

The sit start goes a few ways, though it's spoiled pretty badly by the rock right underneath which makes the sit pretty annoying to execute. Other variants are recorded, for the V6 start sitting on the boulder or just stand start using the undercling.

Sit start the boulder from underclings and up. Pretty hard.

Over the hill from the little starting area of boulders. Will require a fair bit of cleaning.

Up the flat side of the boulder from a sit start. Pretty nice. Still needs some cleaning up, a bit mossy up top.

Just to the right when looking uphill of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder. Big dirt mounds on the underside indicative of birds? Looks good but need to check whether these actually are nests.

Sit start. Your choice of a half-pad crimp, off-angle shallow pocket or a mono for your hands. Up to a jug then top out. Stand a lot easier, V2ish.

Up through a now busted flake on some very balancy and difficult moves. There's a small rail on your left and the feet suck. Be careful of the flake, the rest may still tear away and it's a very big chunk of rock that could hurt you or your spotter. Watch how you lever against it - preferably not straight out from the rock.

Chop this! Up from a sit along the right side through slopers. Could be extended through the cave for a fun variant, if you don't mind the sheep poo.

Up the crack. Bit of a poor landing if you have difficulty topping out.

Straight up through insecure sidepulls and slopers. Techy. The rock on this boulder is a lot more polished than others nearby.

Traverse the front side of the boulder and up, on good holds.

Bit of an eliminate. Follow vague holds up, then bail off left.

Sit start from underneath the boulder. Suits taller people well. Throw from the rail to start and up without dabbing (!), then into a cruxy move to latch two sidepulls and dyno to a jug. FA was done with a dyno, easier with a heel hook but possibly still 6?

Left hand variant to 'Limpy McCrippleton'. Boulder up and over the sloper rail with a few deadpoint moves and some very interesting footing. This is your first point for gear. Bring some mats or a spotter if you don't want to go rolling down the hill. Up and through the weakness to the top.

Start from down low, huck a huge move out left to get started on the rail, feet are very poor, need a few spotters and mats to get this guy done. Not 7 metres tall, but about that long.

Easily up the sloped side of the boulder - as easily as England beat the B side in Perth. Happy Australia day.

This one's gonna be a doozy! 9 metres high - will it go? It's got pockets! V7ish start as for vague crack then extend left as early as possible to avoid the harder boulder problems. Once the route slabs out a bit it's just gymnastic moves on small holds and pockets.

Up the easy crack with big jugs to help you out. Hard to fall out of!

Straight up the overhung section of the boulder with holds facing mostly the wrong way. Gonna be hardish.

Up through good holds to a fairly non-juggy topout!

Found on the side of the boulder to the left of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder, when looking uphill. 'Oh, this should be a nice little warmup' ... Apparently not. Grading is honesty based - if you start too high up, this is more like V2. Start with your feet as low as possible using the notch for your right hand and side-cling for left hand. danger - be careful of the massive flake, it may detach! I may reinforce it.

Straight up from underclings. Contrived, because there's jugs just above...

Up from the underclings and jugs and head left to top out (ideally, don't walk out onto the slab on the far left).

An awesome, sequency and technical climb up through some good holds to a scoop, pinch and crimp with the option of a very sharp sidecling to help you through. A good little number. Was going to be Paddy's first first ascent here, but he didn't have enough gas left.

Couple metres away from 'The Breakdance Kid' boulder. A very surprising little sit start that looks dead easy but requires some technical heel hooking and is pretty bodymorphic and hippy. Take whatever grade it feels like because it'll vary depending on your size.

Just a warmup, nothing special. Up through easy moves following the crack to the top, do some laps if you feel like it.

Up the arete from a stand. Hold that left sidecling!

Near to the tombstones themselves (up and right when looking up the hill). From a sit start, huck a biiiig move to the top.

Up the right side of the boulder through good holds but over a poor landing. The mantel is a bit sketchy, but should be better once it cleans up a bit more.

Up the arete. Some tenuous moves to get around the corner on solid sidepulls. One of the few climbs that didn't have an exploding hold on the day...

Sit start. Some good holds but it's still tricky getting off the ground with the poor feet available. You can easily make this harder but if you do it right it should be a 0. One of a group of good warmups for the harder stuff down the hill.

Sit start. Up through a flake (photo's already old, some of the flake got destroyed) then top out. Another warmup. Other side of the boulder from 'Mossy Ferguson'.

This climb shed more holds than you'd think possible. Up from a fairly horizontal position (sit start) using some ankle strength to get you to the top. Pretty contrived, big rock in the way.

Up past a nice flake from a sit start. Another warmup.

Up the left side of the boulder when looking uphill. Not hard, but not bad either.

Same boulder as 'Paddy Power'. Not too hard (but harder with yet another flake gone) - just need to clean up the top.

Likely one of quite a few lines/variants on this immaculate slab.

From a stand already high in the air, dyno to the lip and mantel up. A lot harder mentally than physically, might want to give it a go on top-rope. No spotting possible.

An easy problem on the face. Sit-start yet to go.

An overhung crack (by 20+ degrees) - short but a bit goey as it's not very jammable. An awesome line worth jumping on though, quite technical.

Sit start and traverse left.

Sit start.

Crack gets the majority of the run-off after rain so it'll probably need gardening if you want to jump on this. Hard moves up an insecure crack. Top currently needs a bit of cleaning up.

An unfortunate chimney start owing to a lack of holds bar two well-spaced pockets that won't get you anywhere. From there, a traverse across the face on a rail will get you to safety. It's not the lowest climb around though... A few deep breaths on all counts when this was sent.

Easily up past a very big flake.

From a standing start, latch a pinch with your right hand and whatever you can reach with your left. Deadpoint up to a flake then up and over.

As for Omo right, but head out left over an insecure mantel.

Another Omo variant! How many washing powders can you get? Start as for Omo then head far right through easy terrain over the big flake.

Flashed on the first ascent. Start on a crimp rail and crimp sidepull. Tension your way across right and then up to finish as for Omo. Technical and fingery.

Up over the slab.

Up using the right side arete. For best value, huck a big throw to the top from as low as possible.

Fridge hug your way up using both aretes.

Up using the left side arete.

Start on two crimps on the face (hard start) then up and over. Arete is out.

Up through some poor holds till you can get your feet set then out to finish right.

As per 'Pain in the Face' but finish directly up following the blunt arete rather than escaping right.

Up the arete.

After a few holds exploded what is left is a brutal crimp start to get onto a few poor side clings then somehow make your way up the face. There's not so much holds on this as there are vague tiny scoops and indents in the rock.

On the boulder just to the right of 'I Rolled a 4'. From a sit, head up the arete using the crack to establish yourself.

Eliminate - as for 'Crack Fiend' but stick to the arete and avoid the crack.

Head up the obvious feature.

Sit start then head up through a fair sized move.

Start low right next to 'Magoo' then up and left to top out.