Routes in Southern Tablelands

Sit start out steep wall to the slab top out.

Sit start and out the steep wall heading left to top out through the ‘skylight’ hole up high on the left.

Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us.

Details unknown.

Squat start on two horizontal edges at same height and out the steep prow to top out.

Squat start compressed, up on slopers compressing rounded arete to top out high slab.

Sit start as for Tufa Line but facing the opposite direction, climb up and right via sidepull crimps and pinches to committing top out via slopey horns at highest point of boulder

Extension to Tufa Line. Starting on the right side of the boulder, traverse left and into the start holds of Tufa Line. R. Hofmann

Sit start and head left past big moves to the arete then around to jugs to finish.

Sit start from edges and make a long hard move up right. V1 from stand.

Sit start. Make a couple of moves up as for the V10 before breaking left, topping into the big water jug hueco/ pot plant.

Sit start and straight up.

Stand start from boulder and lean left to start holds then straight up.

Stand start with left hand pocket and right hand side pull and head out and up. Sit start is still a project.

Sit start and up the left side of the steep wall to finish on high jugs.

Thought to go from a sit start, exfoliating flakes - the usual Bobbara fare - have left a brutal stand start to be done on poor crimps and huge compressive moves.

Stand start of Enter the 36 Chambers on right hand broken crimp left hand sloper

Sit start and directly up to hard slopey mantle.

Start as for Lock Groove (V11), but break right where Lock Groove heads left. Top out via hand jam.

A little way downstream from ‘Tiger Cheese’ you will find a tall block with an obvious mono pocket in the middle of it. Sit start and straight up

Stand start and out right to mantle.

The original stand start of 'Wee Willem'.

Stand start and up right to gain slab and top out.

Squat start on sidepull/ undercling features and head straight up scary looking face to top.

Sit start to the left of the boulder underneath Limpy using the lowest rails possible (see topo). Very contrived, but the hardest way to get up the boulder (so far); extremely hard moves to start using underclings. Can be finished up Limpy (harder) or Hasbeen Army (still bloody hard). Might be 10 either way? Topout if you wish, it's your funeral if you fall.

Fantastic steep gymnastic climbing out of the initial cave then navigates some more tenuous climbing up several shallow tufas to the crux. Starts in the cave at the left end of the fixed rope and finishes as for the final 2 bolts of Sith Lord.

"A fun day out"

1. 31 As for Teflon

2. 24

3. 28

4. 29

5. 27

Fantastic rock and sustained. 12 bolts on the white wall.

Technically tough moves and very physical with a real head check topout.

Through a brutal tall person sit start into the crack, where it eases off to V6ish (v6 for the stand) to the top. Shorties probably won't be able to apply, unfortunately, though you could use the cheater block which makes it a number of grades easier.

Extremely bouldery with dynamic moves to tiny and slimpy holds. The first move is a deadpoint to a two-finger crimp, then up to a sloped pocket - crimp inside that and extend sideways until you can gain a good sidepull. From there it's only a few more boulder problems to the top! Can be top-roped with good opportunities for setting up anchors from the back.

Start from break, up to slopers and mantle.

Sit start and straight up to top out.

Sit start and head up left to top out.

Excellent continuous climbing that pushes a direct line up the centre of the South Wall.

The first 4 pitches of this route makes for a straight forward sports climb that is easy to get off in 2 raps if climbing with double ropes. Sport bolted over 6 long days.

1. (24) 25m Start as for ‘Andrews Arête’, hard start moves. (21 if you pull the first two bolts)

2. (21) 40m Continue up following the Siblings bolts until a small corner with a sapling and 'Lucky' bolt hangers. Follow bolts up and right to a bolt belay in pod.

3. (19) 30m Straight up the blunt arête to the green ledge, traverse right 5m to roomy belay with bolts.

4. (24) 25m Great face climbing to a hanging belay.

5. (26) 50m Up right on big holds to a thin punchy crux then continue up joining ‘Overture to the Sun’ briefly and a long runout on easy climbing to belay at the base of the orange wall to the right of the Siblings belay. Chain belay.

6. (30) 30m Orange headwall. Climb the blunt arête with great holds and follow bolts to a semi hanging belay.

7. (27) 30m Exposure at its best, continue up and pull through committing lip (crux) then up on good hold to finish at chain. Walk back to the car park up the hill.

Between Teflon and Olympus mons. Finish at Teflon anchor.

1st line of fixed hangers to the right of the start of strangeness

1. 36m (21) Really good climbing and worth doing as a single pitch. Follow up the Fixe hangers to chains (some long slings are helpful). Lowering off using al 70m rope will JUST make it down to the ground.

2. 35 m (27) Solid climbing that would give an impressive on-sight. Follow the steel to finish at a semi-hanging belay. Originally done without the last bolt.

3. -m (30) Sail out into the slab with solid sustained climbing on a long pitch.

Sit start obvious jug and up through mini roof via small crimps and interesting moves to slopey top. Very good

Sit start and traverse right along underclings then up via hard lock-off in pocket. Very bad feet. May be easier if you're short.

After a few holds exploded what is left is a brutal crimp start to get onto a few poor side clings then somehow make your way up the face. There's not so much holds on this as there are vague tiny scoops and indents in the rock.

Needs gardening (removal of a boulder at the sit - full excavation, please don't use explosives much as you may wish to) before this can be sent. A granite, sit-start, CAVE problem. Yes, you start fully horizontal. Will be a hard one if someone puts in the work to clean up the sit area. Otherwise it's a fairly poor problem.

The sit start to 'Easy Way Out'. Unfortunately requires a few stacked mats to get going, so quite contrived. Very hard on the biceps - at virtually full reach, use the rail and poor underclings to get off the ground, then execute as per the harder variant of 'Lest We Forget'. Possibly one for the future generations...

Sit start on good pinches. Move up via tufa-esque pinches to top out.

Sit start then up right to top out through gap.

Start as for Castle Hill Dreaming (V10) but move left and up instead of direct.

The mega classic. Sit start on the good jug low and right and make your way left and up through slopey pockets and crimps.

"Classic low ball. At least its a stand start."

"Slabbing areteness."

Sit start and up left to top out by stepping onto the boulder on the left when you get to the top of the face.

Squat start just right of chock stone with right hand undercling, left hand sidepull. Up to sloper on lip and right to top out.

Sit start and out the steep wall to top out.

Sit start and up the hanging block.

Sit start and out the little roof to finish on jugs.

Sit start and up left to finish as for 'Steak & Chips'.

Problem possibly now defunct, large flake came off.

Start: Start 6m right of 'Jewel Box'.

1. 35m (29) Excellent sustained climbing on bolts to the little cave above with a fixed anchor.

2. 25m (21) (21M1) Straight up the groove past many bolts to a belay underneath the roof.

3. 40m (22) (22M1) Aid through the roof to wall above, then move right to flake. Up through the overlap then left and up to a niche and bolt belay.

4. 25m (19) Move left and up to the buttress above on beautiful rock. The route finishes at the bottom of the impossible looking buttress. Bolts to rap off.

The very appealing steep left-trending blunt arete just left of Fluidity. Looks great so we'll open the bidding at 2 stars. Higher or lower bids accepted! 30 the way Phil did it, but some better beta was later found.

Just left of the open project. The shortest route in the gorge but mega burly.

Do a move or two as for 'Evolution' pitch 6, then trend R following the line of bolts up the left hand side of the big cave, eventually joining 'Jump Master' at the top of its first pitch.

Start: Start as for 'Evolution' pitch 6.

An awesome excursion taking the line of most resistance up the tallest section of the south wall. The route takes in some wild and physical territory as it journeys up the wall to its final crux just below the rim of the gorge. Starts on the clean section of slab a short distance right of the base of Red Supergiant and just before the base of the wall becomes a jungle. It is easily identified by the stainless steel fixed hangers meandering up the slab and into the steepness beyond.

1. 23

2. 24

3. 28

4. 27

5. 23

6. 23

7. 26

8. 29

9. 20

The malevolent Chimney between the Slow Twitch corner, and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa. Mantel next to trees and step right back onto face and continue to the the ledge (runout to the anchor) bolt and FH

Straight up with difficulty down low then fly through the super roof

Start as for previous project. Head up to break then head right. Climb the sustained white face to underneath overlap. Break right through this and up powerfully to gain jug. Head back left and up to anchor.

2m right of MP Bouldery start.

More incredible limestone. Start as for the previous two routes for one bolt, then traverse left on FHs to groove - then up wall above. 60m rope will NOT reach belay - lower to fixed biners near cave then lower again.

Hard and sustained, start a few metres right of the overhang on bolts. Goes up 6 pitches and nicely run out at times. A small rack can lessen run outs.

Sit start on slopey feature, traverse low to pockets and top out for front two

Stand start on slopey hold, move up the crimps and slopers to a dirty top out

Sit start on block and climb up scoop/arete with intricate beta to hard topout left.

Start on muddy swing holds with toe hook and jug, work your way left and traverse into heal wrap Then move through heal wrap to top out in the same finish

A very hard sit-start with a ludicrously poor upside-down incut pinch and a right hand pinch to start. Throw to a rail and from there execute much easier moves to top out.

Sit start. Start on lh crimp and rh poor diagonal gaston, then up to a shallow groove and into a pocket. The alternative rh pinch might make it a bit easier. Try and hold on until the end. Cruxy sit.

Possibly one grade harder than Limpy according to the FA. Follow the crack up and through the rest of Limpy.

Sit start. Your choice of a half-pad crimp, off-angle shallow pocket or a mono for your hands. Up to a jug then top out. Stand a lot easier, V2ish.

I looked, and behold, a pale rock. Straddled upon it...

Compression moves up a blunt arete to top out at jugs over a very airy landing. This one is an absolute cracker - requires great body tension, technical moves on tenuous holds and good concentration, not to mention good skin! The full line will involve some very heady moves, particularly if done 'pure' without the assistance of the boulder to the left.

There was some question before it was attempted whether it would even be possible given the apparent spacing of the holds. It definitely goes, but it sure ain't easy.

Climb mind choss but instead of heading up at the jug continue right, ~1.5m into a second crux, then up to finish on under cling and pocket.

Stand start on the shotgun barrels. Head straight up via strenuous moves.

Lowball. Sit start and slap up left.

Stand start in left of two cracks, span right to second crack and directly up, avoiding dabbing on the rock behind.

Sit start on undercling feature, out roof and up headwall.

Stand start on the bloc to the right of 'Rachel Hunter' and head up over the bulge to top out.

Stand start under roof between 'Orpheus' and 'Rockbiter' and top out.

Stand start and up the high face.

Thin and powerful. 6 rings and #3 Friend. Lower off last bolt.

Not including unclimbed projects, this is the hardest climb in Nerriga.

Start: 4m left of DL. Up to 3rd BR, then move right and up past 5 more BRs (stay right) to chain. The last bolt is hard to clip, and is safe to skip on the RP attempt.

Start: Left of O, below middle of roof. Stick clip first BR, then dyno and slab up to roof. Out the lovely roof to double RB lower off just over lip. 7 RBs in total.

Obvious blunt feature, just left of CFH

Climb the first three bolts of Shot of Spirit, then head right, into Progress Comes to Shitsville finishing on the anchor of Death of a New Car Salesman.

quality climbing up a vague arete with ridiculously technical feet

Really good.

Starts half a metre left of Sarah Fieg's Route. Bouldery and direct up little prow. Shares anchor with previous route. There's also a LH finish along the lip of the roof to finish into Polenta Pumper.

First two pitches as for Siblings of the Sun. Then from the second belay go directly up to join a hand crack (rather than trending right and up from this belay, which is Siblings). From here continue up the soaring line of bolts with increasing difficulty, with the final 2 pitches tackling the orange headwall (5m L of Siblings' last 3 pitches).

1. 25m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2.

3. -m (23)

4. -m (23)

5. -m (24)

6. 25m (25) The first 10m is a bit of a contrived squeeze onto Siblings, with rotten bolts and rock which was only ever spot cleaned.

7. 25m (27) Also great. The only headwall route which is on til the very top. Rebolted recently (2015), so until p6 is fixed its an excellent single pitch rap-in option. All bolts with 1 or 2 optional bits of trad.

Between 'Evolution Direct Finish' and 'The Other End of Evolution'. After freeing past the first three bolts on Evolution P7 take a long rest on the ledge, then head straight up past 9 more bolts.

Variant to Air Malta overhang. Kia kaha is a Māori phrase used by the people of New Zealand meaning stay strong, used as an affirmation. The phrase has significant meaning for Māori: popularised through its usage by the 28th Māori Battalion during World War II, it is found in titles of books and songs, as well as a motto.

1. 30m (26) Amaze balls no rest till the end. Huge holds and huge moves.

2. 20m (27) Bouldery climbing to the crux tufa finish.

Great climbing on the wall just right of 'Olympus Mons'.

Stand start on foot sloper rail near arete and up arete to finish as for A Great Problem

Start at base move up and right to crimp and side pull crack, big move to top with foot jam and cross to sloper then top out Chris Beers

Lower side obvious crack. Beautiful. High. Chris Beers