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Routes as boulder in The Spit

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Showing all 73 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Sandy Bay
V3 Dude, Where's My Car?

Sit start, then up and right of the arete via a big pocket and an obvious flake.

Boulder
V4 No Stopping

From the left arete, move 2m right and up for a fun time and desperate top.

Boulder
V2 1
Boulder
V3 The White Line
Boulder
V4 3
Boulder
V0 4
Boulder
V2 5
Boulder
V2 6
Boulder
V3 7
Boulder
V3 8
Boulder
V4 9
Boulder
V2 10
Boulder
V1 11
Boulder
V2 12 Direct
Boulder
V4 12
Boulder 6m
V6 13

Several juggy moves directly in the centre of the wall from a standing start leading into some small overhung crimps and a long reach to the ledge. Topout over the second section or crawl around the gap to the right.

Boulder 7m
V3 14

Start just right of the arête in the juggy pockets. A long move to the top out through the cave

Boulder 6m
V4 Gladys

The route starts on "The Sandy bay roof" V6. Follow the line that is going right until you reach the end of the good hand holes then jump on the big jug of the v4 "Roadkill" (jug just above Roadkill's start). Then follow the Roadkill line. This is a link-up. It is an "endurance boulder" with a decent rest in the middle.

FA: Clement Bouchet, 1 Oct 2021

Boulder 6m
V4 Deep Diver

Slide deep into the back of the cave to start on an undercling. Move out to buttress via powerful moves (and yes, it's super low-ball roof).

FA: Unknown

Boulder
V0 Wave Rider

Same start hold as 'The Sandy Traverse' then head straight up the flakey arete

FA: Unknown

Boulder 3m
V3 The Sandy Traverse

Work the entire length of the lip starting on the far left side with two hands on the obvious ledge.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 10m
V1 Clear Sailing

Start as for 'The Sandy Traverse' but stay with hands on the upper rail topping out as for '18' by mantling onto the ledge in the middle of the cave.

FA: Unknown

Set: Phillip Booth, 2020

Boulder 3m
V6 The Sandy Bay Roof

Start on the obvious triangle jug towards the back of the roof near the middle of the cave and move to the right side via the lowest chalked rail to the far right side lip. Turn the lip and move directly up the remaining slab to top out.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 6m
V3 Man Overboard

Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Head straight out towards the road and finish by mantling onto the shelf in the middle of the cave.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 4m
V3 Roaring Forties

Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Make a big move straight out towards the road and then head right to finish up the juggy arete.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 3m
V4 Roadkill

Start both hands on the juggy hold under the lip. Climb directly outwards towards the road around the most overhung section of rock. Continue over the ledge to standing, and finish by topping out directly above.

Boulder 4m
V2 Free Willy

Short wall just right of the cave. Sit start on chunky juggy side-pulls and head up via smaller holds to tricky top out.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 3m
V6 Summer Daze

Sit start then climb the arete to a tricky mantle.

Boulder
V0 The Pebble West side
Boulder
V2 The Pebble North side
Boulder
V3 The Pebble South Side
Boulder
V4 The Pebble East side
Boulder
V1 22
Boulder
V2 23
Boulder
V4 24
Boulder
V3 25
Boulder
V4 26
Boulder
V5 27
Boulder 4m
V1 28
Boulder
30
Boulder
29
Boulder 4m
31
Boulder
V10 Jessie

Direct.

FA: James Alexander, 2004

Boulder
Pearl Bay The Overhanging Boulder
V4 The Block Arete

Awesome jug hauling up the stunning overhanging prow leads to a crimpy, 'easy yet somehow desperate', exit. Start low and stay true to the prow. A picturesque must-do classic.

Variant: Use a few higher jugs on the left and take a couple of grades off - still fun.

FFA: Unknown

Boulder 4m
V8 The Block Arete RHV

From the first hold make big moves out under the right arete and up on cool pinches avoids all the huge jugs of the left face.

Boulder
Pearl Bay The Pearl Bay Quarry
V2 1

From the ledge with the yellow survey mark, go right to the little arête and up. (If you're feeling awesome try the full traverse on the wall with its enormous span).

FA: Unknown

Boulder
V0 2

Awesome, funky, but easy bouldering. Mould yourself into the low scoop, then make a series of fun and interesting moves up left of the large Angiphora.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 2m
V1 Jump and Mantle

The name says it all. Loads of fun and pretty tough too.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 2m
V4 Pearl

Start low with your hands on the big reverse layaway, then slap up the overhanging arête to finish on Jump and Mantle (the big sandy foot ledge is on).

Boulder 3m
V3 Cripple Club Mantle

Start as for pearl, left hand up to the crimp on the arête and push out the mantle on the blank face

FFA: Mattias

FA: Probably lots of people

Boulder 3m
V2 5

An interesting short cute slab (can add a low start).

FA: Unknown

Boulder 3m
V0- 6

Commonly used as a decent.

Boulder 4m
V1 It's Not Cheating!

Facing the rock, start at the left hand arête of the big scoop. Use the tree when topping out. "It's Not Cheating" to use the tree, it's the only safe way to top out and exit! Keep the overhang to your left. Minus points if you use the overhang or any hold beneath or above it. Arête and right hand face only.

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

Boulder 3m
V6 Eucalyptus

Up the face to the break before a big lock off to a slope below the eucalypt. Clean the top hold before attempt. Controversially, use the tree to top out.

Boulder
V4 Adrift

Start as for 7 then traverse left before climbing up via the big pocket.

Boulder
V3 7

a highly unusual problem - it's actually easier if you face away from the rock! Park your bum on the left side of the slopey ledge and reach up for the break. Very Cool, though I'm not sure if the Fonz would agree.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 4m
V1 8

Climb up the wall, then traverse leftwards all the way to the little scoop with the rooflet. Very good.

Start under the little overhang, rounding the arete and traversing via the obvious horizontal line of holds.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 6m
V4 9

Start as for problem #8, but walk the ledge rightwards and finish on the jug on the arête (or higher up if you wish). Stretchy, balancey, and good fun.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 4m
V2 10

Up the crimpy wall right of the arête, traditionally finishing on thejugs. Worthwhile.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 3m
V1 11

Off the ledge go up to the drill hole, then traverse the break rightwards (the historical plaque makes an ideal foothold, and is a great use of tax payers funds), ending on the big jug on the faint arête.

Boulder 4m
V0 12

Off the sandy underclings, take on the arête to the jug.

Boulder 4m
V0 13

Just right of the arête is a pleasant slab/wall with some very nice crimps, head slightly left. Very good climbing.

Boulder 4m
V1 A Pearl In The Hand Is Worth A Fig At The Bay

A testing piece of slab highball for those willing to tackle it. Solid holds all the way.

Boulder 4m
V1 14

Another good crimpy little (or not so little) problem. Either finish at the break, continue up past the obvious feature, or join problem #13.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 4m
V0 15

Start up the centre of the wall and traverse the breaks leftwards to finish on the arête.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 4m
V1 Petros Problem

Starting to the left of the dirty streak make your way straight up to the broken rock. The broken rock has a bit of movement in it so use caution.

FA: Petro Semeniuk, 2012

Boulder 4m
V0- 20

Just to the right of the yellow streak.

Boulder 4m
V1 Stick Your Foot In.

Start at the corner crack to the right of problem titled 15. Start with a foot jam and head on up. Can be topped out.

Set: GChris, 2013

FA: GChris, 2013

Boulder 4m
V4 Black Pearls

In the middle of the boulder to the left of Three storey Rock, go up the right tending flake, then leave the flake to go left passing two slopey crimpers and top out as for Stick Your Foot In.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 25 Apr 2016

Boulder 4m
V0- 23

As for Black Pearls but when the flake runs out follow the horizontal seam to the right and finish up Three Storey Rock

Boulder 4m
V0 Three Storey Rock

Up the breaks then the sharp arête. Fun.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 3m
V2 Training For Pipe Dreams

Walk past Three Storey Rock and step over a dead tree to find this 10m long traverse on various jugs. Start about 3 m right of the drain pipe that is on top of the boulder and keep moving left until the rock runs out. Rock looks crumbly but all the grey parts are pretty solid.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 25 Apr 2016

Boulder 2m
Castle Rock Beach Castle Rock
V1 Battlement traverse
Boulder 4m

Showing all 73 routes.

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