A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Castle Cove
12 in Area
- 1.1. Castle Cove crag / Right of Way Crag 11 in Crag
- 1.2. Echo Point 1 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Castle Cove 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.786562, 151.216176
access issues
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ethic
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1.1. Castle Cove crag 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.782823, 151.210988
description
A.K.A Right of Way. A crag in H.D. Robb Reserve, Castle Cove. You'll find it lurking directly beneath No. 45 Neerim Rd (opposite Parnoo St). The south wall can easily be seen across the water at Killarney Heights (e.g. from Crumbly). Has 2 areas of cliff with large undercut bases, one with a large grey headwall and one very imposing, with black and beige streaks. There are also a number of mainly slab areas providing a range of easier climbs, with a similar style to Narrabeen Slabs. There is also some limited potential for short routes on the upper-walls (at the top of Aria)
From the access gulley, turn right (facing downhill) and follow a faint path for about 20m.
Continue walking into the overhanging section with a sandy base.
From the spikey roof, walk across through the ferns, going parallel to the cliff, then up to the cave at the base of the cliff. At the right of the cave, walk up the faint path to get to the base of Aria.
The enormous streaked orange wall to the south of the crag. Has many sections rich in impressive looking slopers, but many bare patches and overgrown starts. Any route that goes up here is likely to be epic, 26+ and require a bit of gardening (or a batman start) to establish.
Certain patches of this wall are prone to prolonged seeping.
approach
To access this crag, you have a choice of the public right of way between No. 41 and No. 45 Neerim Rd, or bashing in from the west end of Willowie St. The right of way is 30m long and takes you to the top of the crag, but the owners of the house have done a good job hiding the right of way as part of their garden! The local council has hinted at 'improving public access' here in the future. At the end of the grassed area, follow the faint path left, skirting around the bottom of the house's backyard. Follow the short faint trail down between some boulders until you reach a small ledge, follow it a few metres right and around the banksia, then continue downhill and left to the access gulley with a length of old poly-rope around it. Otherwise, starting from Willowie St, there is a public path down to the water. Follow this down the concrete stairs almost to the water then begin a long scrub-bash west and slightly uphill to the obvious wall.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Right SideThe short cliff to the right of the access gulley. | ||||||||
| 2 |
Blue Ribbon
Short and dynamic route over the bulge. 1 BR, 1 U and 2 more BR's to snap gate lower-off. The top is accessible. | 20 | 7m, 3 | |||||
Broom SlabThe grey slab to the left of the access gulley. | ||||||||
| 4 |
★ Junglistic Man
4 U bolts to chain right of the Broom Slab. Climb on to the ledge at the tree. Up the slab and headwall. Chain and RB lower-off. Watch out for that tree! Bolts accessible from top. FA: Darley, 2014 | 20 | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 5 |
Shidily...
Right hand side of the Slab. 3 BR's running up the sloped slab to double U lower off. FA: 2014 | 19 | 8m, 3 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Mudstone Man
Right up the middle of the grey slab, over 2 diagonal seams trending up and to the right. Follow 1 U and 2 RB's to a double RB lower off. (Originally 19 before a hold broke, now the start is fairly difficult) FA: Darley & Diemont, 2014 | 20 | 8m, 3 | |||||
| 7 |
★ Thymeless
Links the start (and first bolt) of Mudstone Man into the top of Amiga Man (Sharing the last bolt). Technical Traverse over 1 U and 3BR's. FA: 2014 | 22 | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 8 |
Amiga Man
Start about 3m left of Mudstone Man. Straight up off the leafy ledge, then up and slightly right to the chains. 3BR's to chain. FA: Darley, 2014 | 21 | 7m, 3 | |||||
| 9 |
Open Project
Start 2m left of the tree near the right of the overhung cave section. Difficult lip to technical face. Five RB’s to double U’s. Bolted in July 2014. Set: 2014 | 5 | ||||||
Aria WallContinue through the undercut cave after the Broom Slab and past the overhanging spike to the cave under the large orange wall. Head back up and to the right to access the start of Aria. | ||||||||
| 11 |
Red Surface
Scrub-bash your way to the far right of the Aria Wall. Climb the right side of the corner chimney using only the face holds (no chimney/arete). You can climb the chimney to put the draws on and off. FA: 2014 | 21 | 7m, 3 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Aria the Natural
Extension of Aria and probably the best route at the crag. Start as for Aria, clip third bolt with a long draw. Move right then up flake and slopers to double RB lower off. Five bolts in total, 4 of which are BR's. FA: Darley & Hanley, 2014 | 23 | 11m, 5 | |||||
| 13 |
★ Aria
Short, difficult and technical slab (crux) to start, then up breaks and flake. One RB (you can stick clip), then Two BR's to double RB lower off. FA: 2014 | 22 | 9m, 3 | |||||
| 14 |
Jam Roulette
Whacky mixed line, staring just left of Aria (starts on good footholds). Traverse left and up corner. This route is poorly protected and not very good. FA: 2014 | 21 | 14m, 1 | |||||
1.2. Echo Point 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.778971, 151.208841
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Legged Snake (Open Project)
FA: Will Monks, 1988 | 24 | 8m | |||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 19 | Shidily... | 8m, 3 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag | |||
| 20 | Blue Ribbon | 7m, 3 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag | |||
| ★ | Junglistic Man | 10m, 4 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag | |||
| ★★ | Mudstone Man | 8m, 3 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag | |||
| 21 | Amiga Man | 7m, 3 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag | |||
| Jam Roulette | 14m, 1 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag | ||||
| Red Surface | 7m, 3 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag | ||||
| 22 | ★ | Aria | 9m, 3 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag | ||
| ★ | Thymeless | 10m, 4 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag | |||
| 23 | ★★ | Aria the Natural | 11m, 5 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag | ||
| 24 | ★ | Legged Snake (Open Project) | 8m | 1.2. Echo Point | ||
| ? | Open Project | 5 | 1.1. Castle Cove crag |