Routes as boulder in Lindfield Rocks

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Not so much a boulder problem as a dirty grovel under the arete

Narrow line up the right of the arete.

Easiest line up the arete, started using the incut pocket

Right hand in the incut pocket, straight up.

Left hand on an ironstone crimp in the centre. Right to an obvious incut pocket and up

Right hand on the incut crimp, grab small sidepull for left and desperately up

Just right of the tree. Grab two small crimps and crank on up

Start as for '8', on the edges. traverse right into the start of '5' and up.

Traverse the little wall from right to left. Stay below the top. This is the hard extreme right hand start of The Lindfield Traverse Complet.

To the left of traverse #1's block is a small buttress. Climb this directly without using the sides.

On the wall proper, layback the right arete.

Undercling the breaks to the left of 4, and either crimp or dyno to glory.

1/2m to the right of the obvious discontinuous crack feature is a small pocket. Off this to very crimpy stuff above.

Crimpy stuff to the left of Discontinuous Crack.

It's a crack so try to jam - if you can't jam you can use the holds on either side of the crack.

Left of the big crack, on positive edges and pockets. High; bolts on top.

The left arete of Walkdown Wall. High; bolts on top.

To the left of Walkdown Wall is a slabby wall often used as a descent

Up the middle of the slabby wall. Commonly used as a descent route.

Hands-free up the trackside staircase, doubles as descent route

Up the narrow face. No sides

Layback the right arete of the boulder face.

Smearing up the overlaps left of the arete

Take care not to use the chip for your foot. or deduct a grade.

There's a trick to this one. Up the next set of overlaps.

Again, avoid the chipped foothold.

Start as for #5, but go straight up avoiding the large holds on the right

Layback and undercling the long overlap to the finish of #5

Up the overlaps using a flexy flake at the top

Up using the vertical overlap above the white polished slab. Slopey edge near top.

Layback the next overlap along, diagonally right.

Start on low broken undercling, then deviously attain the face and the good holds therein

From broken undercling, reach/slap the sloping lip, then over and up using the right arete

Again from the broken undercling, traverse left below slopey lip and get established round on the left side of the block

Andrew Unsworth

Start standing on the left side of the block. Drop down and traverse the slopey nose to end up on the right side.

Anti-clockwise traverse of the boulder (stays below top). Hard traverse on the back end of the boulder.

Traverse The Nose then right and down through overlaps to link up with problem 7.

Traverses the block (Hermit's Cave) right-to-left staying just below the top

Thin seam on the right hand side of the wall.

Eliminate all face holds and climb the seam by finger-locking and a tips layback

Fierce little ironstone crimps just left of the seam.

Left hand sloper, right hand knifeblade. Grit your teeth and pull. Knifeblade is bigger than it used to be!

Right hand sloper, up on small holds. Sidepull to the left is off.

Just right of the crack. Plenty pockets and edges

The layback crack. Layback on its right side or jam it.

Straight up this buttress, staying out of the cracks.

The twin crack system.

Bold face to the left of '8 - Twin Cracks'.

Tricky finger crack. Do it pure for the full tick, else wimp out onto actual holds.

Excellent juggy face. Do it! Can be done with 3 dynos!

The slanting crack

The face to the left, crimpy ironstone. The left side of the face is slightly thinner and harder.

Start on the big shelf in the corner, squirm up avoiding the right face

Grab the break and mantle it to reach a pockety sidepull 1.5m above.

Between arete and corner eliminating the break and big pocket.

Starts behind the tree on the right. uses underclings and a large rounded flake. Trend left near the top

Climb to and past the obvious square window.

Between the window and the dog leg crack, squeezed in.

The dog-leg crack and surrounding territory

Up past a bullethole pocket to finish on crimps.

Past the low well-worn horn. vertical edges on left, thin crimps on right.

Up the seam using 20 cm corridor of rock

The blankish runnel in the middle of the wall

aka Turkey Route. A must-do up the left hand side of the wall with a slight right-left deviation high up.

Between 'The Arete' and The Tourist Route, a thin wall above two pockets with a well worn edge. Don't stray offline.

Start on the right, move onto the arete itself, then back on the right.

The traverse around the arete from right to left, keeping low, is a good problem in its own right.

Thin moves up the black wall just left of the arete.

High, thin, airy, scary.

The left side of the black wall. Still thin but apparently jug heaven compared to '2'.

Wide corner crack to small roof.

Middle of the wall left of '4 - Corner Crack' on small crimps.

Climbs the curving feature to the left till it runs out, then crimps on the right face

The Wide Crack

Centre of the wall, aiming for the ironstone "horseshoe' crimps high in the middle. Very, very good.

Flake system just right of the arete

The juggy arete with an awkward start on the left hand side

Layback the obvious block feature on the right hand side of the area.

Traverse the block rightwards staying below the lip.

Start up on the ledge, climb the small wall on good holds

Left of the corner crack is a good jug. Past this using the flake.

Thinly up the centre of the wall on mostly positive holds.

Start in the large pocket near the middle of the wall. climb up and left via a flake to finish right of the tree

Reachy start, vague flakeline.

Stay on the right of the arete all the way to the top

The buttress on the left of the 'One Hold Wall' area

Starting at the base of the ramp, climb the wall without using the seam. Tricky.

Using the only good set of footholds to the left of the ramp use a single finger undercling and reach, reach, reach for an edge. It helps if you're tall.

Start at the well-brushed (and poor) sloper with your right hand. Desperately up.

Holding sloping pocket with L.