Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Isolated Rock/Overhang | |||||
V2 | ★ 6
Left to right traverse via easiest sequence available (mid height under the roof). | 4m | |||
V7 | ★ 7
Hard left-to-right traverse staying below the reasonable head-height line. Highly unlikely to have ever had a 2nd ascent as Pete did a very eliminate method and very undergraded. FA: Pete Balint | 3m | |||
VB | ★★ Up the door jam
Chimney up between the isolated rock and cliff face. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ 9 - Impossible
Desperate sit start up the crack. Tape up, and use some crimps near the top for this grade. May not be doable pure. | 3m | |||
V7 | 10
From the little arete, traverse right via the flared crack. | ||||
{US} V8 | ★ Stop!Arete
The RH arete of the gap between boulders. Don’t go deep, the crimps inside the gap are off! Slap up and finish on the jug for the V6, number 11 FA: 3 Mar 2020 | ||||
V0 | ★★ The Lone Ranger
From 1m inside the cave next to The Overhang, climb up over the lip, holding onto the crack in the rock above the roof. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ The Lindfield Traverse - 10
This is where the Lindfield Traverse finishes. Step across from the ledge of The Golden Triangle stay low and finish in the cave. For a more exciting finish, head up The Overhang. | 6m | |||
The Overhangs | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Minuteman
Lip Traverse from the obvious horizontal break right of the roof all the way along the lip to finish in the wide corner crack. | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Minuteman Direct
A more logical finish. Start as for Minuteman and finish up 2. | ||||
V3 | Campus Problem
Two feet right of '2'. Stand & grab first crimps. Campus your way up until you run out of cliff or your feet stop dangling. FA: Some old fella, 1800 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ 2
Starts by underclinging a large flake just right of the big corner crack. Right to a large pocket on the arete and then up. | ||||
V4 | ★ 2a
Contrived. Start: Undercling the large flake and go straight up to a match with both hands in the thin break. | ||||
V0 | 3
The corner crack. | ||||
V1 | ★ 4
The best problem on this wall. From the wide corner crack traverse left keeping below the roof to finish at or near the crack. | 6m | |||
V2 | ★ 5
Centre of the wall, there's an old (ex?) carrot and a drilled pocket. Up and right from here. | ||||
V3 | ★ 6
As for '5', but haul up left on slightly less dodgy holds. | 5m | |||
V0 | 7
Crack. Yuck? | ||||
V3 | 8
Flake system through the roof. | 4m | |||
V3 | 9
Light coloured scoop further left of '8'. Standing start trending left. | ||||
Pipe Dreams | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Pipe Dreams
Eponymous super classic left-to-right traverse under the roof and topping out boulder. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Upper Pipe Dreams
The high traverse back from the end of 'Pipe Dreams' back to the start. Hands below the top. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Dream Pipe
'Pipe Dreams' in reverse. A good mix up to keep it fresh. Perhaps a touch harder then Pipe Dreams. | 7m | |||
V5 | ★★ Put That In Your Pipe and Smoke It
Link 'Upper Pipe Dreams' into Pipe Dreams. Long, pumpy and awesome. | 7m | |||
V4 | ★★ 3
First of the up problems, from the big sandy footledge move out via two reasonable slots to finish up and right. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ 4
From the central underclings, move to the large break then up via the pocket, or forget the break and dyno from the undercling straight up to the pocket. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Big Wednesday
Just left of the two-hand feature in the middle is a good sized undercling. Start here and head out to a small slot above Pipe Dreams. From here, left to a sloping slot, right hand good pocket, top. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Pipe Wednesday
Link start of Pipe Dreams into Big Wednesday. | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ Rubble
Low, hard rightwards traverse from the double-handed feature, underclinging over to the crack and up | ||||
V8 - 10 | Pipedreams Mega Linkup Project
Linkup 'Upper Pipe Dreams' into 'Pipe Dreams' to the double heel, then into 'Rubble'. Described in the Sydney Bouldering Guidebook as not yet sent |