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Eastern Sectors

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Description

An area of mixed bouldering grades with a few highballs thrown in for good measure.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

From the carpark, walk past the BBQs and down towards the disused swimming pool. The Blob is on the left as you walk down the steepish ramp.

The first roof you come to after the pool and behind the Scout Hall is Sharik's Roof.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Routes

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Grade Route

First sector from the carpark. Walk down and the boulders will be right after the steep handrail.

The undercut corner on chipped holds.

FA: Unknown

Variant to The Blob. Start low in the big pocket, left of the corner. Using the corner when necessary go to the crimp, match and use what ever to get to the obvious bigger holds above. Top out right.

Start left hand in corner and right on a sloper. Climb the arete to the slope at the top of it. Traverse right utilising edges, slopes and a big undercling, to a ramp. Mantle to some good holds near the break.

Damien Alexander

Tyrone Clements

FA: Matt Wrigley

low start just right of the arete, left hand in deep pocket and right hand on thin edge. Make a big right hand move to the side pull and continue up, top out as for 'the express'

FA: Connor Lucas

Start on right hand side of The Express roof on twin 2 finger pockets & punch out left following the arete/lip all way round to mantle same as The Express.

FA: Damo Alexander, 5 Mar 2015

Optimus Prime's early exit. Bring your lock-off arms. Might be easier?

mattias braach-maksvytis Travis B Liam

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 18 Aug 2015

7m right of Megatron. From good low holds, use a right facing feature and a big move to get the top. Mauricio Chino

Keep walking on the track for about 100m. This sector is located at the top of a set of stairs.

Crack left of High Roller. Up crack, past jug and into hands roof. climb on left via jugs to rejoin chimney to top out.

Stand start left of 'Sharik's Roof' on two small crimps, move up and right to gain the arete and top out. Bring some pads, and some spotters.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 2014

Start half sitting, half lying down on the obvious holds. Do a weird move to a left hand hold. Climb the roof using the the slopey rib, to a slopey lip. Traverse the lip left up the overhanging arete using a sloper. Finish on the jug in the break.

abrahamsends

FA: Sharik Walker

Start as for Shariks Roof and finish up Onramp. Going all the way of course.

FA: Al Pryce

Start on the big jug on the lip of the cave (righthand side). Traverse left into the end of Sharik's Roof.

Leah Dempsey | Phillip Booth

Start right on low jugs traversing left onto the arete just right of 'Sharik's Roof'. Top out just right of the arete.

FA: Sharik Walker

Marked MA.

First done as a lead climb by Pete Webber in the 80's. Someone came along later and decided to mark the start and name it.

MA originally stood for Mosquito Arete, named when we mistakenly thought we had the FA in 1984 - Laef Hosking

The bolt is now horribly manky so it would be best to top rope or highball.

FA: Pete Webber, 1981

In the middle of the wall with a small boulder in front of it.

FA: Unknown

A further 50m along the track is an extensive series of good walls with a "Hello Everybody" grafitti.

Start at large hole at knee height on far left of wall, where Wall Traverse starts, head up to jug above and left on to slab. up slab climbing left around roof and to top

FA: Lawrence Wonhas, Nov 2022

Boulder up the wall past a manky BR. Good DBB on top for toproping.

FA: Unknown

A technical thin traverse, finishing at the small ledge on the right.

FA: Unknown

Starting at the most right of the big break. Traverse right along the lip, using sharp edges, slopey pinches etc. Finish at the big ledge inside the cave. Technical and quite hard. Another Sharik classic.

FA: Sharik Walker

Pass the cave and round the corner. Up the arete.

FA: Unknown

Off the pinch.

FA: Unknown

Start sitting at constriction in stacked hand size crack in cave, along roof crack, through lip and into chimney to top out. Open Project

Campus the chin up bar in the cave (left side) between wall traverse and the arete problem. Set a lovely bat hang and shuffle hands up the edge. Finish matched on final good lip on the roof. - potential to extend to a highball slopey top out!!!

FA: Cam Evans

The splendid looking arete, which isn't as good as it looks. Start on the ledge and thrutch on up the arete. Finish right as per the next problem.

An excellent slab on nice rock. Use the right facing feature and some face holds to climb up to a slopey but good top.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 28 Apr
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