Routes in North Shore for selected grade

Carrots now in place for those who wish to top rope this problem set at grade 17.

Sit start same as ELAP. Move up to the top of the scoop and then left to the thin crimp. From there use the assortment of rounded side pulls to move up and top out slightly right, same as "STWS" and "RC"

Some challenging moves through the middle.

A contrived climb with a powerful technical start.

Start just right of Perfect Flake, with this easy crack out of bounds!

Using smears and two side pulls head up to the bulge on the left above the out of bounds ledge line that's about head height. Keep moving up using controlled power (no Dynos) and mantle out.

As to avoid temptation, there are only 5 useable holds for this V3.

Less is Best!

Sit start on wall just left of the vertical crack line. Without using the crack move up and under chossy roof. Balance required!

After entering the bushes and passing a Jurassic Park like tree root vertically exposed along the wall, this is the first climb you will see.

With a pile of coal at the bottom (the old rusty bbq is in the tree root), this problem follows the iron ledge meandering up the cliff. A fun pumpy climb with good holds, for those who look for them. Once you have ridden the train tracks up to the top try not to grab grass for the top out.

This climb offers the perfect balance of height and holds!

Once on top, remove your harmonic and lament your 13hour days working at the mill...

Start in front of square cutout a bit above head height. Using said cut out and finger cracks, boost up to a slapper. Follow the angled slope, until you can slap the exposed rounded ledge under the over hanging trees and grass. Enjoy the last hold and try and top out without aid from the Ents

If going for the Onsight, clean before you climb

For full grade, finish with both hands on smoothed over ledge. Down climb is best to the left.

At the first Slab you come to start at the right hand side of the left arete. Undercling and side pull your way up and then enjoy the technical moves of this arete problem

From top to bottom the left hand is bound to the arete, while the right hand and both feet are free to wander!

Love the laybacks, delicate smears and some cool problem solving!

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

You'll need to hit this one hard with big moves, but the holds aren't as lovely as they seem

Start 1m right of the arete in the Scoop.

Without using the arete to the left or the holds on the orange streak to the right, power up using the side pulls, sloping pinch and some solid reach

Finish on the ledge common to all the slab problems and then down climb via the method of your choice

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

Some awesome balancing slab, full of commitment and trust!

Start facing the orange vertical streak about 1m left of the corner. Using some of the left most holds of "United By Brushes" and some thin, delicate bumps and pinches move up.

At the large ledge with the carved out indent the problem moves right to mingle with UBB. Here the large carved out area and the ledge is out of bounds! Use only the holds to the right along this ledge line to keep the grade!

Down climb the same you went up or via SCSC

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

Sit start, then up and right of the arete via a big pocket and an obvious flake.

Start just right of the arête in the juggy pockets. A long move to the top out through the cave

Work the entire length of the lip starting on the far left side with two hands on the obvious ledge.

Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Head straight out towards the road and finish by mantling onto the shelf in the middle of the cave.

Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Make a big move straight out towards the road and then head right to finish up the juggy arete.

Start as for pearl, left hand up to the crimp on the arête and push out the mantle on the blank face

a highly unusual problem - it's actually easier if you face away from the rock! Park your bum on the left side of the slopey ledge and reach up for the break. Very Cool, though I'm not sure if the Fonz would agree.

Stand start from the big hole and the vertical edge.

Stand start on the jug on the lip and mantle up the face to top out.

The Flake in the Left Cave

Start just right of A in the scoop. Up the arete (without using the block on the right).

Up the hill and left from Zachaeus. Start with butt on ground on right side. Traverse the lip till you're over rock, then mantle.

Down and left of the Stone Table (looking in). Start at blunt right arete and traverse it as far rightwards as possible.

Start in the middle of the face with two obvious pockets.

The left side of the main sharp arete. Starting on the blocks. Try not to fall!

Start and finish as for loitering, but never use the lip until the overlap near the top.

Still on the slabby block. Start on the right end, just right of the tree. Move straight up to the apex.

Try top out this blank thing, starts hands in 2 pockets, feet anywhere.

Out to the right. Main start hold, up to close left pinch, out to right finger jug, up to long slit, follow out right and bump to your hearts content.

Link the start of "Stand Easy." into "bumper to bumper"

Real low sit start to the right of the main start hold, bump up and throw, stand easy. Top out using the right side of the intersecting tree.

A core strength loving slap and smear traverse with great holds and a slight over hang

Sit start at the far left of the wall, straddling the rounded arete.

Pull up to the top of the rock and without letting your feet touch the ground, slap and smear your way to the right

Staying on the ledge lines at the top of the wall move right until you at the far arete.

love the easy arete up for the top out.

Reach and endurance required!

Start in the cave on the lowest jug. Make your way out left, around the arete and top out.

Same start as Project 5.

Go up to the crimp rail from the cave and make your way right to a good crimp to top out. The crimp left of the cave from Project 5 and Project 6 is out.

Vid: Richard C

Start on lowest jug in cave.

Climb your way under and around, topping out the same way as Project 5.

Very satisfying toehook sequence.

A one move boulder problem.

Right hand on a good side pull and left in a shallow two finger pocket located right at the end of the crack. Left foot on a bit of a buldge above the tiny cave under the boulder.

Slap to the peak above and top out.

Sit start with left foot on the obvious point under the boulder and right heel in the 'L' shape jug.

Left hand begins on slightly awkward crimp with middle and ring finger sitting higher than index finger (May need a bit of feeling around to find it). Right hand on the straight white ledge.

Pull off the ground and locking off the left arm, reach for the slopey crimp. Make your way to the hand sized pocket (All the other random pocket holds above are out) and top out over the peak.

Same sit start as the original.

From the slopey crimp reach out right to a pinch hold and walk feet over to reach a pocket located around a sloper hold. Top out using anything to the right of the pocket.

Start: As for DD. Up and left at roof. Shared chain lower off with DD.

Start just R of Z. Up, passing three (recently replaced) ring bolts and a long reach. Stay out of the crack! Belay is two somewhat hidden carrots on ledge at chest height.

Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete.

This route as 2 BRs which are well past their best before date.

Around the next corner from WMRDG is a round, bulgy face. Climb up it, staying towards the centre.

The right side of the crack. Hands on right only. Nice knee bar!

Start up Spider Stairs till mid height, then finish up Scorpion Stairs.

Start up Scorpion Stairs and finish up Spider Stairs.

A beautiful problem mingling balance, dedication and problem solving

Start 3m right of Spider Stairs by semi mantling the chest high ledge up to a delicious side pull. Traverse your way along to the right using gastons, crimpers, side pulls and underclings till all holds above you disappear and you are forced to follow the holds down.

Finish by walking off the right most section of the problem after working through two challenging crux's

A pleasure at any time of the day!

Starting 0.5m left of cave. Up the cave's left edge bearing leftwards.

Start in the middle of the cave, up to obvious incut, then move left to groovy holds and over.

Start in middle of cave. Up to obvious incut then straight over. Holds on left only in for feet.

On the first wall you walk past, about 3m before the first corner. Up on sharp crimps before moving right to good ramp and up. Nice.

Start about 2m left of right arete on front face. Up through flakes to top flake and over. Hint: Look right over the lip, and don't fall!

Right arete on its right side, moving rightish towards top, but topping out left of the crack.

Starting at arete just left of wide crack (good for decent). Roughly follow the crack that goes diagonally left to top, but finish on right side of crack.

Start at same arete, but go straight up. Stay left of wide corner crack.

Start on the low rail as for Somme climb, traverse right through the shallow roof of Mini Sub to finish on the obvious iron ore horn on the arête.

Start about 4m right of SC at obvious scoop. No using the tree to start! Up and over, left at last bolt for slopey finish.

Middle route on final poxy face. Jump to pod, then up, right to rest, and rightwards at final bolt. Hard crux sequence if you're short!

Links the start (and first bolt) of Mudstone Man into the top of Amiga Man (Sharing the last bolt). Technical Traverse over 1 U and 3BR's.

Extension of Aria and probably the best route at the crag. Start as for Aria, clip third bolt with a long draw. Move right then up flake and slopers to double RB lower off. Five bolts in total, 4 of which are BR's.

Short, difficult and technical slab (crux) to start, then up breaks and flake. One RB (you can stick clip), then Two BR's to double RB lower off.

Stand start in break left of the runnel. Head up and left to top out.

Start just right of crack on big jug and left of Deal with it. Crux at top.

Follow line of fixed hangers start below 1st hanger, add a grade if you do the sit down boulder problem under the overhang.

Left hand on an ironstone crimp in the centre. Right to an obvious incut pocket and up

Right hand in the big sidepull pocket, feet up high and dyno for the top.

Excellent little problem, up the obvious hanging crack. Finger lock or face climb - fun either way.

The most common start for the Lindfield Traverse is 3. Move left staying low. Move slightly higher at the arete for the second section of the traverse.

Layback the next overlap along, diagonally right.

Start on low broken undercling, then deviously attain the face and the good holds therein

Start standing on the left side of the block. Drop down and traverse the slopey nose to end up on the right side.

Traverses the block (Hermit's Cave) right-to-left staying just below the top

Right hand sloper, up on small holds. Sidepull to the left is off.

Starts high at the end of The Downclimb Slab. Drop down to the middle of the wall near problem 4 - feet on the obvious horizontal break. At the left hand end pop onto the shelf and scramble onto Abseil Wall without touching the ground or using the tree.

Starts behind the tree on the right. uses underclings and a large rounded flake. Trend left near the top

Between the window and the dog leg crack, squeezed in.

Past the low well-worn horn. vertical edges on left, thin crimps on right.

aka Turkey Route. A must-do up the left hand side of the wall with a slight right-left deviation high up.

Climbs the curving feature to the left till it runs out, then crimps on the right face

Start in the large pocket near the middle of the wall. climb up and left via a flake to finish right of the tree

Reachy start, vague flakeline.

Start at '1', walk the ledge and then scramble down from the ledge and traverse the wall at low height. Move around the Orange Arete to a short wall.

Start with right hand on an incut crimp 1/2 left of the layback, left hand on sloper and up.

A rightward Traverse from '5 - Bum Crack' around the boulder avoiding the big foot ledge.

Sit start and undercling your way up. Follow the right trending seam/crack. There are million variants to this problem.

Climbs the territory just left of The Offwidth.

There's an obvious pocket below the traverse of '7 - Diagonal Cracks'. Use this to gain the break.

steep stuff on the left edge of the wall

Two feet right of '2'.

Stand & grab first crimps. Campus your way up until you run out of cliff or your feet stop dangling.

As for '5', but haul up left on slightly less dodgy holds.

Flake system through the roof.

Light coloured scoop further left of '8'. Standing start trending left.

Eponymous super classic left-to-right traverse under the roof and topping out boulder.