Took time off working Kennedys to try this.
Feels a lot more technical, I certainly needed a lot more foot movements to make it work.
Funmantle. Don't dab.
My first V6 outdoors, so pretty stocked with that.
Definitely made me work for it. Got there this morning and the crag was empty, soon I found out conditions were less then ideal. Warmed up a bit, pulled on a few easier boulders and came to this one.
I could not hold even the start holds properly, after around 10 tries I realsed that apart from me being week, it was too humid.
So went to Area Q, tried a cool V3 and a V5, and then was too scared for all the others without a spotter.
Also felt conditions were getting better, so decided to come back to this boulder.
Conditions had indeed improved, and could do the first moves again although skin wasn't very happy anymore.
NO joke, I gave another 30+ shots on this, every time getting closer and closer, tried all techniques I knew to improve grip, told myself at least 5 times that it would be the last go.
And on the very last go, after I had pretty much given up already, I put it together and sent it.
Now will see how many recovery days I will need hahaha it was meant to be my de-load week as well =)
Such cool compression - still hard to keep ass off the ground, but sent at end of session after blowing it from the jugs a few attempts before. Stoked!
I like this climb. I like this line.
The crux seemed impossible the first time I eyed it. Many sessions later I was finally able to stick it.
For me, considerably harder than the original going out right and I debated whether it was really a V5 but after today's send I've settled for HARD V5.
Used Nadav's cheat beta. Double heel to start, bump lh, move rh faaaar in to slopey sidepull, set r toe and r kneebar, lf flag under as rh reaches to little nub under the big flake. Then top.
