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Ascents in Barrenjoey as various tick types by Phil Ward

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Showing all 93 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 18th Jul 2010 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
15 18 Anti Scuttler Trad 20m Good
Thin and slabby - run out and desperate at times. This route is 18 not 15 as it says here!

 
16 Pox Travels Fast Trad 15m Good
Run out at the top, but it's pretty easy up there

 
18 Cobwebs Trad 15m Good
Hand jams in the breaks and thin on the face

 
Sun 27th Jun 2010 - Barrenjoey
Insomnia Cave Rock
14 No Sorry It Makes Me Fart Unknown 9m Good
An easy romp - perfect for beginner lead.

 
11 More Tea Vicar? Trad 9m Average
Inadvertently soloed - dragging the rope up with me! Essentially a no-pro route.

 
15 Observatory Trad 20m Average
The pro on this flaring rounded crack really isn't great - beware. Bailed and toproped instead - to my relief.

 
19 Leon the Klepto Cat Trad 20m Good
Really tough traverse from cavelet to crack - well protected by a bolt though, so I think that with the cam up in the top break I might run a pink at this in the future.

 
Sun 27th Jun 2010 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
17 Ikon Sport 10m Average
This version is very silly - do Direct variant instead.

 
17 Lurgi Meets Plate Tectonics Trad 12m Good
A little chossy and unclimbed - but it's still a better route than CE.

 
Sun 20th Jun 2010 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
19 Mescalito Trad 12m Very Good
A little run out at the bottom, but pro is good up top with cams between bolts.

 
18 19 The Phantom Bolter Strikes Again Sport 10m Very Good
The guide talks about a ripped hold, but I don't see how this could get any easier for a 19.

 
20 Cranky Sport 7m Mega Classic
BJ classic - everyone should steam up this one.

 
Thu 4th Mar 2010 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
15 Cosmic Ecology Trad 12m Very Good
Tough start but easy out of the roof throwing in cams all the way.

 
Fri 26th Feb 2010 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
19 Ikon Direct Sport 10m Classic
Reachy, balancy and great value

 
Wed 10th Feb 2010 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
18 Borcat Blues Mixed trad 20m, 2 Good
Flared, sandy breaks make for some dubious cam placements - you're happier when you clip those bolts!

 
19 Not Your Average Cab Sav Trad 20m Classic
Sustained throughout - some classic BJ thinness with great pro

 
Thu 19th Nov 2009 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
14 Domino Trad 20m Good
Bring some big pro and wedge yourself in

 
15 Tropico Trad 20m Good
Get inventive with the pro because it's a bit sparse to the first bolt

 
19 Central Pillar of Mordor Mixed trad 20m, 3 Good
The cam placement mentioned in the guide looked pretty flakey to me, which is a great pity because this line has all the makings of a total classic. Oh, for a bolt!

 
18 Liquid Insanity Sport 20m, 4 Very Good
Thin start to run-out first bolt

 
Fri 25th Sep 2009 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
17 Enterprise Variant Mixed trad 15m, 4 Good
Very thin start then easy sustained climbing. The variant finish is much easier than E, but is more run-out without the standard route's top bolt.

 
14 Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity Mixed trad 6m, 1 Average
Unprotected all the way to the bolt before the top-out. The microcam placement the guide mentions is wishful thinking.

 
14 Computer Sox Trad 7m Average
Very chossy - and not worth a star

 
10 Celluloid Heroes Trad 10m Average
Easy to stray off route - and that makes things much harder!

 
Fri 18th Sep 2009 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
16 Tangerine Dream Trad 15m Average
Brain-shrinkingly large run-out before the bolt

 
18 Marsupial Smearer Mixed trad 20m, 2 Good
A very thin start past the first two bolts - but he is the smearer after all!

 
Sun 13th Sep 2009 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
15 Facet Trad 16m Average
Not great for the arachnophobes!

 
16 Abseil Wall Trad 18m Very Good
Crackalicious

 
16 Mode Sport 14m, 3 Good
Very thin start but good after that

 
Mon 22nd Jan 2007 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
14 14 R Elf Town Trad 20m Very Good
Crimpy in places but mostly bomber.

 
14 Carrie Bradshaw Mixed trad 12m, 3 Good
The juggiest holds known to man.

 
17 17 R Cramp Ons Trad 20m Very Good
Enjoyable and well protected.

 
14 Judgement Day Trad 20m Good
Good bit of chimney at the top.

 
18 Liquid Insanity Sport 20m, 4 Good
Fingery start much like MS.

 
18 Enterprise Trad 25m Mega Classic
Sex... in rock form.

 
19 Arachibutyrophobia Mixed trad 20m, 2 Good
Tough from the very beginning to the second bolt. Super fingery and unprotected start.

 
18 Marsupial Smearer Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Sparse difficult beginning moves, but great for it!

 
Sun 21st Jan 2007 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
18 Enterprise Trad 25m Mega Classic
Like MS and LI on this wall, Enterprise is the finger-master. Tough start but great climbing.

 
Sun 14th Jan 2007 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
18 Marsupial Smearer Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Sparse difficult beginning moves, but great for it!

 
19 Benign Sport 10m Good
Very fingery to start. Crux is at top - but well protected. A real make or break move!

 
18 Enterprise Trad 25m Good
Enterprise is the finger-master. Tough start but great climbing.

 
16 Pan Pacific Wall Trad 16m Very Good
Lots of breaks for cams. Crux lies in top half, with section of sparse fingeriness.

 
18 Sand Syringe Trad 20m Good
Pro gets sparse towards the top - have to sling the large dinner plate flake or make longish ascent unprotected. Excellent footholds and bomber cam placement soon after, though.

 
17 Cramp Ons Trad 20m Very Good
Excellent sustained climbing - well protected.

 
16 Pox Travels Fast Trad 15m Average
Chimney start and fairly sparse on the face from then on. Short and no great rhythm.

 
Sat 16th Sep 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
16 Pan Pacific Wall Trad 16m Average
Lots of breaks for cams. Crux lies in top half, with section of sparse fingeriness.

 
13 Two Steps Forward Mixed trad 20m, 1 Average
Easy climbing just like Jezebel - not as well protected though.

 
16 Benign Variant Finish Sport 10m Good
Fingery to start - greasy after rain.

 
Sun 3rd Sep 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
14 14 R Elf Town Trad 20m Very Good
Crimpy in places with the occasional bomber pocket. Satisfying.

 
5 Exit Tortons Trad 13m Don't Bother
Often used as an access path

 
19 Ikon Direct Sport 10m Classic
Very fingery and smeary throughout. Long runout between BR2 and ring - bring the kevlar undies for this one late in the day.

 
19 Long Line of Leanings Trad 15m Classic
Great climb with interesting overhang start at cave. Get grunting!

 
16 Mode Sport 14m, 3 Good
Sustained climbing - a good lead to kickstart the day.

 
19 Benign Sport 10m Good
Tough until you know the whereabouts of the top hold (up and right). Topout is a featureless domed sloper otherwise!

 
Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
19 Mescalito Trad 12m Very Good
Sparse and smeary in places with some bomber underclings to rest. Recommend a 0.5 cam in left crack to prevent decking.

 
14 Judgement Day Trad 20m Good
One of the more challenging chimneys at Barrenjoey. Good fun.

 
16 Mode Sport 14m, 3 Good
Fairly fingery - easy to get a pump on whilst clipping pro.

 
19 Long Line of Leanings Trad 15m Classic
Great climb with interesting overhang start at cave. Pro is good - can see this being lead.

 
Sun 9th Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey
Insomnia Cave Rock
10 Baby Steps Unknown 9m Good
Really easy going - would be a good lead for a novice.

 
11 More Tea Vicar? Trad 9m Average
The climb is nothing to write home about - the view from the top is worth seeing.

 
Sun 9th Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
14 Carrie Bradshaw Mixed trad 12m, 3 Good
Loads of bomber hand holds. Good clean fun.

 
Sun 9th Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey
Insomnia Cave Rock
14 No Sorry It Makes Me Fart Unknown 9m Good
Nice smeary, fingery between BR 1 and 2. Overhang at top also a good challenge.

 
Sun 9th Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
16 Abseil Wall Trad 18m Very Good
Crack climbing. A great sequence of technical moves - top stuff!

 
Sun 2nd Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
14 Carrie Bradshaw Mixed trad 12m, 3 Good
Loads of bomber hand holds. Good clean fun.

 
11 Ray's Moppy Trad 10m Average
Easy climb that obviously doesn't get much traffic. Holds are a bit sandy.

 
16 Benign Variant Finish Sport 10m Good
Quite fingery in places, but well bolted.

 
14 Starboard Barnacles Sport 20m Good
Fingery holds tough in places at the end of the day. Not a lot of rests.

 
10 Cythaul Haul Trad 12m Good
A pleasant climb - route is nice and clean compared to other similar low grades.

 
14 Pledge a Legend Trad 16m Good
Climb partner took a hefty whipper off the far side of the traverse - had to take over lead. If you needed a reason to go out an buy a helmet, this is it.

 
19 Ikon Direct Sport 10m Classic
Started as a lead but had to restart as TR. Enormous run-out between 2nd BR and ring. Cup of tea too strong for an onsight lead today! Excellent climb though.

 
13 Krill Trad 6m Good
Interesting move in middle - challenging for a 13.

 
Sat 24th Jun 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
15 Tropico Trad 20m Good
Easy, fun climb. Slow to dry after rain.

 
16 Wild Ride Trad 18m Very Good
Interesting overhang start to first BR. Long sparse dome near top an interesting challenge - go left! Belay position on top of triangular block is a little awkward but gives a great view.

 
18 Borcat Blues Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Typical of most climbs on this wall - fingery slabs between horizontal breaks for cams. Nice moves.

 
16 Tangerine Dream Trad 15m Average
Some tough fingery sections and not a lot of opportunities for pro. Easy to get a wicked pump on with a rather unsettling amount of line out.

 
Sun 18th Jun 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
9 Jezebel Mixed trad 11m, 2 Average
18 Sand Syringe Trad 20m Good
Pro gets sparse towards the top - have to sling the large dinner plate flake or make longish ascent unprotected. Excellent footholds and bomber cam placement soon after, though.

 
16 Abseil Wall Trad 18m Very Good
Crack climbing. A great sequence of technical moves - top stuff!

 
16 Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket Mixed trad 20m, 3 Don't Bother
Can't say I'm really sold on this one - doesn't have the 'flow' that a lot of better climbs in the area have. Of course, YMMV.

 
14 Pledge a Legend Trad 16m Good
No pro across the traverse - just have to sack-up and punch it!

 
Sun 28th May 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
18 Liquid Insanity Sport 20m, 4 Good
Fingery start much like MS.

 
14 Pledge a Legend Trad 16m Good
No pro across the traverse - just have to sack-up and punch it!

 
19 Not Your Average Cab Sav Trad 20m Good
You're right, it isn't your average cab sav!

 
15 Crack of Dawn Trad 20m Very Good
An excellent climb for someone new to leading.

 
9 Hang Over Trad 12m Don't Bother
This one rates 1-star - honestly, I dont see it. Too short and too easy.

 
Sun 14th May 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
18 Marsupial Smearer Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Sparse difficult beginning moves, but great for it!

 
9 Jezebel Mixed trad 11m, 2 Average
18 Cobwebs Trad 15m Average
16 Pan Pacific Wall Trad 16m Average
14 Pledge a Legend Trad 16m Average
11 Orgasmic Trad 25m Good
Sun 9th Apr 2006 - Barrenjoey
Southwest
14 Starboard Barnacles Sport 20m Average
16 Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket Mixed trad 20m, 3 Average

Showing all 93 ascents.

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