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Honeymoon Gap Rock climbing 10 routes in crag

Access: Crag Closed - Please do not climb

As part of the Mount Gillen ban, climbing at Honeymoon Gap is currently banned at the request of traditional owners. Efforts are being made to resolve this but for the time being please do not climb here

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago
10
AU
5710131517192123

Seasonality

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D

Description

Steep and surprisingly solid quartzite sandstone. Most routes can be lead without needing natural gear. Shady in the morning all year, more shade in summer!

Approach

Take Larapinta Drive west from Alice Springs for about 12km. Turn Left just after the Simpsons Gap turn off and take Bullen Road for 1km. Honeymoon Gap is directly by the road. Park on left in front of the North Face of Eastern Buttress. You can practically belay from your car

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Routes

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1
21 ★ Scratch the Copper Itch Trad 20m

Naturally protected. Up steep gully on far LHS and through overhanging headwall into corner.

FA: Richard Johnson & Paul Deacon, 2012

2
19 ★ Fandanglement Sport 18m, 4

Unnamed - the left most line of bolts. Steep bulging technical face.

FA: Richard Johnson & Paul Deacon, 2012

3
20 ★ Delactify Sport 17m, 4

Up steep bulging seam/crack - four bolts with (optional) 1.5 cam at base of headwall.

FA: Richard Johnson & Paul Deacon, 2012

4
23 ★ Super Grover Mixed trad 20m, 4

Start just right of D and traverse R into line. Very strenuous boulder problem down low leads into easier climbing to finish at D chains. Four bolts with #1 cam at bush.

FA: Paul Deacon & Rich Binstead, 2012

5
24 ★ Oscar the Grouch Mixed trad 20m, 5

Sustained climbing with a powerful crux. Five bolts with some small cams between the 1st and 2nd.

FA: Paul Deacon & Rich Binstead, 2013

6
22 ★★ Flaming Elmo Sport 15m, 6

Climbs to high cave with fun, reachy moves through the roof. DBB ring at top.

FA: Paul Deacon & Rich Binstead, 2013

7
22 ★ Pumplestiltskin Trad 20m

Two bolts and some natural protection. Climb on slopers into the pumpy corner, step right and up easily.

FFA: Rich Johnson & Paul Deacon, 14 Jun 2014

8
15 The Honeymoon is Over Trad 25m

The better line, which is steep in places but has lots of small wire placements. The rock is generally pretty good but is still loose in places despite plenty of ascents - very 'Centralian'. Climb the left hand crack in the west facing wall. At the top there are a couple of old pegs indicating an earlier ascent, don't use these as there are two solid ring bolts five or so meters further up.

FA: Kieran Culhane & Eryne Hali, 1986

9
15 ★ The Honeymoon is over RHV Trad 25m

More of the same - climb the R crack where they split. Really there is very little difference between the two climbs.

FA: Kieran Culhane & Eryne Hali, 1997

10
5 Sunstroke Gully Unknown 43m

Look for the most prominent corner, just east of this is an easy looking chimney and corner that is climbed.

FA: John Griffiths & Helen Griffiths, 1972

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22 ★★ Flaming Elmo

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Ryan Gaskon at Honeymoon Gap - 45302320_877003805757222_6721072181230436352_o.jpg

Ryan Gaskon at Honeymoon Gap - Flaming Elmo

Fri 28 Apr
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