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Umpakata Iwara

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 6
  • Ascents: 24
  • Aka: Airport
11

Seasonality

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Summary

Prominent outcrops on the southern side of the Pukatja airport. Couple of nice cracks, couple of easy slabs, plenty of loose rock.

Access issues

Permits are required for access to the APY Lands. Respect the community and traditional owners. Get permission before climbing.

Approach

Roughly 5km from Pukatja. Drive out towards Yunyarinyi and take the road towards Umpakata. Stop at the base of the outcrop, short hike to the cliff base.

Ethic

Get permission.

Routes

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Grade Route

The beautiful crack straight up the cliff face. Bridge the start and watch the flakey holds down low. When you get to the number one crack- just jam it!

FA: Oska, 28 Aug 2021

Crimpy slab, tricky balance, trust. Stick to the left of the Number 1 Crack, probably more solid than it seems, but definitely some sketchy holds around so take care and climb selectively. Could protect with gear in the Number 1 Crack.

FA: Oska, 28 Aug 2021

Start as for Utju Kutju, but tend right using the arete and crack to the obvious stand below the roof. This is where the fun begins. Use the off width or lay-back against the roof, thin/no feet, watch for loose rock; traversing to the left. Body Jam for a rest as you round the corner and work up the edge.

FA: Oska, 17 Oct 2021

Commit to the start- Pull up onto the slab 2 meters right of the start for Utju Kutju. Continue up the fine slab to the stance before continuing on body Jam. Trust your feet.. maybe

FA: Peter Hamnett, 30 Jun 2022

Around behind the spear bush to the right of utju kutju and body Jam- at the mouth of the cave, stem up the step side wall and slab until you get to jugs on the steep face. Gain ledge below a precarious looking chock stone roof. Go up through roof and bulge.

FA: Oska, 17 Feb

Steep fractured crack up to the roof. Start 3m right of the Number 1 Crack. Fun moves to get to the top, good variation and exposed finish.

FA: Oska, 29 Aug 2021

Surprisingly more difficult than it first appears. Up the three sectioned face 4m right of Airplane. Thoughtful slabs up to the stance below the overhang. Continue up through the challenging roof and pull up to top out/walk off.

FA: Nathan Stringfellow & Oska, 17 Feb

Start up the 3 slab sections as for Newana to the stance beneath the roof. Skirt around to the right above the spear bush, reaching over to the arête at the top of Little Kenmore. Continue up the arête to the top.

FA: Oska & Nathan Stringfellow, 5 Feb 2023

Up the arete 2m left of Little Kenmore. Continue above the spear-bush to the crack and up.

FA: Oska, 29 Aug 2021

Up the slab, keep right of the crack to the first ledge the left of the crack the rest of the way. Watch out for loose rock.

FA: Oska, 29 Aug 2021

Short and pumpy. Start 5m left of Utju Kutju, around the arete. Lean and lay back up the angled crack. Solid most of the way up.

FA: Oska, 12 Dec 2021

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Wed 24 May
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