Ascents of Eddie Misses the Point having Beta

Been ages since I last tried this. Hung a fair bit as I was working the moves. Made the moves clean while bolt to bolting the first 3 bolts. Couldnt fully remember the beta for the finish and tried out the direct. Got it but felt pretty tough.

Holy shit, FINALLY a 25! I have only been trying this grade since 2019, and multiple times thought it was never going to happen. It was my goal early this year to tick a 25 before hitting 40 — didn't happen, but it happened before the end of the year, which still feels like a miracle. The hardest 15m I've ever done.

3rd attempt today. First one I cruised super smoothly through the crux and then faffed in the crux of the grade 24 that this route merges with (Punching...) and came off, but felt super strong. Second attempt fell at the crux and felt defeated. Then in the 3rd attempt I hit the crux a bit wrong and thought it was all over, but managed to adjust and just kept bloody going. I must clip the third bolt on these 2 routes with the right hand, so that I smash my left forearm but "rest" the right (while clipping) arm in preparation for the next few moves. Before the 4th bolt I felt my left hand slipping two or three times, don't know how I managed to stay on. The ascent had the drama it deserved (and some screams)

For potential critics and skeptics — I used the kneebar on the right at the end, and had Andrew's kneepad for that too, so feel free to call this an aid ascent Stoked to try the direct version now, that's for sure.

Of course now I think the route is classic Thanks Andrew Dolan, Akira and Caleb Skirrow for so much stoke and advice on this wall this year. But only Andrew was my witness today — I must have got some extra motivation while watching him cruise up Tim just before.

Now I can go to Europe eat cheese and get fat

great little sesh on a rainy Saturday — learned with Andrew today: keep feet lower to clip second bolt (has been an on and off issue) and then add a higher foot + dropknee for the right foot at the crux. With these adjustments I got to the top with 2 short sits. Maybe this goes!??!

Another dog to the top of this — getting to know all moves pretty well. Hopeful it could go before next year, but I need to try hard and often...

Was ensure on doing this. Not too bad really once I found the good part to hold at the second horizontal break. Some moves into Punching then as for that will be just that bit more pumpy.

Psyched this one came together pretty quick over a few sessions

Pertty happy to dog this all the way to the top, but needed long rests on each draw. Trundle feels more hopeful for me... better footwork and perfect beta could do it though. Excited to get back on it. Nice sustained route. I just wish I was strong like everyone else at the summit!!

Fell looking for holds just before the chains, pretty frustrating to drop the on-site. Need to get into some route climbing condition again 🤙🏽

Very nice, deceptively pumpy

Alzheimer's repeat, 1st go. Somewhat fun for a summit route and very soft for the grade

My 4th 25

Was sandbagged by someone telling me it’s 23, never been so pumped in my life!

Down to two sits, probably should be one but still not solid thorough the crux. needs more time

some improvement

sitting most of the way up

First Attempt

Finally starting to sport climb

Finally starting to sport climb

Session 4 , first go of the day

gonna go soon!

Went for the send but pumped out clipping the 4th. Really cool climb

Great route. Pretty sustained

Dogged it, then sent next go.

Feels worlds away from possibility

more enjoyable than pussy, a great route

hadn't done it in the new millennium. Still nice.

My first 25!

New project. First decent go since trying it on top rope some months ago.

Horray!!!

rest at last bolt.

1lap

First time from bottom to top.

2nd go.

3 shots. Fell off last move on 2nd shot. 3rd was to get my draws back. Hot ,tired and broken!!

i am a sex machine ready to reload!

good body positions

same as pussy

Finally.....after months of working this sucker, and an embarrassing number of tries, it has fallen. So long Eddie....

the Ed is cool!