Nodes in Occupied Territories

The climbing at OT is varied, from grade 12 slabs to grade 25 pumpers. It is located in a great out of the way place so the usually annoyances that you asscociate with nowra do not exist. Location: From the roundabout at the North Nowra shops head right (instead of left to go to the grotto and camping areas) and follow Illaroo road out of Nowra. At 10.5km there is an intersection (Illaroo road goes left to Babylon) continue on straight ahead and shortly the road will turn to dirt (11.1km from roundabout). You will then pass under some high voltage power lines (13.1Km) and Lower Bugong road (13.9Km) off to the left (Goes to West Bank). Continue straight ahead for another kilometre of so until Abernethy�s Road appears on the left (15.1km from roundabout). Take this road for 1.5km until the road weaves down and left underneath a cliff line. Park at the bottom of the hill off the road and walk 15m to the first climb. Do NOT park in the obvious clearing on the right side of the road opposite the crag in a 2wd as the ground is soft and you will likely get bogged. The road gets a little rough near the crag so take care in a low clearance car.

The first section of cliff visible from the carpark. climbing varies from steepness to easy slabbing

Start up first two bolts of Beit Hadassah and then trend left onto arete. More engaging than it's neighbour

For infiltrator Part 11 get up Infiltrator then move up the headwall to the DRB LO. You can Bivy on the ledges for 3 days leading up to the slightly punchy headwall

The second climb at the crag. Climb up slab left of crack.

Start: 10m from your car under camo bolt

the crack right of Beit Haddash to lower off as for BH

Start: 2m right of BH under crack

An old Chris Fox project that stood bolted for many many years until the first ascent. Up through jugs under the roof, at the third bolt punch way out right to gain a way through the blank section up to the break above (possible alt-method going left?), from there a stiff overhung boulder problem on small sharp crimps to reach the anchor.

Up steeply to lip of roof then over this to rest. continue up wall to anchors

Start: Under roof on ledge in cave 5m right of BH.

Start 5 metres to the right of Occupied Force. Punchy start thru some suspect rock, then keep on paddling past plenty of big holds on good rock to airy finish. A bit run-out, make sure you fall in the right places.

Up scoop nazi then past two bolts then traverse left and up short flake to easier ground

Start: as for scoop nazi

easy if you can crimp. Up beautiful wall past thin moves to gain scooped orange wall. lower off under roof.

Start: Under middle of scooped orange face

Now in Bugong National Park. No dogs.

A later day extention to Six Day War (18) which makes it all but obsolete. Up burly start and cruise to top of cliff. nice position up high. 3m right of SN off boulder

por favor. stick clip first ring and climb short steep wall on jugs. would be great if it were longer.

Start: 2m right of Six day war

Climb the steep crack and headwall.

Start: Just left of crack 2m right of gazpacho

The slabs offer great easier climbing on (predominantly) awesome orange sandstone. Location: Located about 50m up the hill from Scoop wall

Left most route on the slabs. Balancy start to an interesting pull over the small bulge at mid height

Start on left side of orange section of slab 3 metres right of 'TV Girl'. Up slab past bulge to lower off. Keep straight on between the 3rd & 4th bolts crux to earn the 16 - going a metre or two left off-route makes it more like a 14.

Up the groove feature past three bolts to DBB under roof.

4 metres right of hibernate under flake in roof. Up slab to steeper section of slab and tend left to anchors as for 'Just Right'.

Bolted by Steve, stolen by Dod. Climb 'Crunchy Nut', then up to the right and through the roof.

Start under orange flake, Up slab to flake and up to anchors under roof

2 metres right of Cereal Killer, up through gold towards the honeycomb roof.

The leftward slanting crack, starting at The Bridge and ending at the anchors of Cereal Killer. Clip the first (and second if you like you ankles to remain undamaged) bolts on The Bridge and then trad it up to the convenient anchors at the top of the crack.

Last bolted route on the right facing the cliff, nice start moves and tricky finish, worth doing

20m to the right of Cereal after all the chossy black wall. Start finger crack at the right end of the black, up the finger crack to gain flake and up to tree.

About 30m right of the slab wall is a grotto feature that has some great steeper walls. It features one of the crag classics Axis of Evil which tackles the impressively overhung buttress in the back of the grotto.

Start on front of boulder just right of large tree. Up steeply through the slopeyness to the head wall and final arête to anchors. Contains some funky moves as the rock is tilted so none of the breaks are horizontal.

First route you will find as you enter the canyon. A tree is currently almost touching the black wall which marks the start.

A nice sequency start up the short punchy wall to the slab. Tend up and right to final pumpy moves of desert storm and shared anchor.

Start on the left of orange wall.

Up scooped rock to big flake then climb the steep

orange wall to lower off below cave.

2m right of Desert Storm below orange arête. A bouldery start leads to a bongo drum bolt and rest. Belayer beware as the leader climbs past the loose, crumbly rock. Finish up the steep orange wall and arête.

Just right of 'Intifada'. Mantel up to scoops then up to cave. Head out via steep scoop and tend right to anchors.

In middle of black wall under big white horn. 'Steep' slopey start past 3 bolts to comfortable rest then continue up the committing crimpy headwall past three more bolts to lower off.

On left side of the narrow steep scooped wall. Up the scoop on jugs and fantastically solid rock to crimpy face, then continue to rest and launch through final bulge to anchor. Take care when cleaning in order to avoid swinging into boulder behind the belayer. Overhangs 5m in 18m! Crag Classic, a test piece for the grade in 'Nowra'.

A link up but worthwhile as its so long. Head up Axis past the first five bolts (don't clip the sixth or you will get killer rope drag). Hand traverse right and finish up the last five bolts of the Final Solution.

Start: just right of AoE. Solo up corner to ledge with care as you reach the top. Head up wall to 2nd bolt then do some unlikely thin moves (just right of Axis) to reach break. Tend right through scoops to jugs and launch up steep wall to cave. Sneak Mcdougall rest at cave and continue up final wall to anchors.

Start: on right side of pyramid shaped block Climb right side of block to ledge then up hand crack to off width and up to cliff top. TRAD

Up awkward looking crack

Start in back of the canyon. Best for belayer to be down below the start. Up and around blunt prowl thingo. Up and over small rooflet and onto jugs to top of cliff. Maybe take a small cam for the run out section under the roof.

Now in Bugong National Park. No dogs.

Now in Bugong National Park. No dogs.

Just around the corner from the Card Deck is the second canyon. This wall has some nice long routes.

Short steep wall up on a rock ledge, between Canyon 1 and 2.

On left side of ledge under corner, layback up steep pumpy corner past 5 bolts to final slab top out.

Up steep scoop past 3 bolts, then use a long sling on 4th bolt before traversing left to clip the last bolt of 'Subterfuge' and finish as for that route.

The guidebook states "despite appearances the rock is very solid", but the rock scars suggest otherwise.

Now in Bugong National Park. No dogs.

A little past The Card Deck is a long grey wall with a small rock ledge above the ground

In the middle of long grey face

A burly start past three bolts leads to a break

where the route heads right and up to flake.

Continue up wall to finish with hands on top of

cliff.

Start at short flake under obvious arête

Up flake and right to 2nd bolt then tricky move to

rest. Reachy move through bulge and up the nice

technical arête to slopey top. Only single lower off

at this stage as continuation up top arête may

eventuate.