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Babylon Areas Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Jason Lammers Jakob Kapelj Matt Tranter Simon Vaughan Thomas Maxted Grant Stewart

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Babylon Areas 115 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.828504, 150.456825

summary

The 'Wild West' climbing of Nowra. No crowds, all bush.

access issues

These crags are remote from civilisation. Be prepared for NO phone reception in and around the Babylon crag areas!

approach

Head West out of North Nowra along Illaroo Road.

where to stay

Some of the areas allow bush camping (check).

ethic

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

inherited from Nowra

1.1. Babylon 33 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.840485, 150.473056

approach

Navigate to (-34.84705, 150.47955).

There is now a locked gate on the access track due to misuse of the area. Park near the gate and walk, taking the right route past the gate for 1km to arrive at the power line tower.

For the Western cliff line follow the worn track towards the cliff line, West of the power line, follow the cliff line right to find a way to scramble down (not great access!).

For the Eastern clifflines go from the power line tower through the bush to the right of the power line corridor - use theCrag OSM map overlay for a route hint. Do not attempt to cross from the Western to the Eastern areas below the cliff line - only pain and frustration awaits!

history

Brogan Bunt and others from 1993 onwards.

1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.838952, 150.474457

description

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

© (Ashy)

approach

There is a locked gate 900m from the carpark. There is space to park and walk in for an extra 10 minutes. More concerningly, there is a sign that says access prohibited - but it is likely directed at the dirtbag camping area and the dirt bike tracks. It's crown land and as such it's public access.

© (Ashy)
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ningishzida

FA: Mark Baker, 1994

25 Sport 15m
2 Juliet

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1993

24 Sport 15m
3 Project

Rings up arete above four pronged tree.

Sport
4 Ishtar

FA: Brogan Bunt & Robyn Cleland, 1993

23 Sport 20m
5 Unknown sport route Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Freshkigal

FA: Brogan Bunt, Wade Margetts & Brett Miller, 1993

9 Trad 20m
7 Namtaru

FA: Brogan Bunt, 1993

22 Trad 20m
8 Namtaru Variant

FA: Brogan Bunt, Wade Margetts & Brett Miller, 1993

19 Trad 20m
9 Namtaru Direct

Take SLCD's for slab then rings to top. 2RB anchor.

FA: Bogan Bunt, 1994

24 Sport 20m
10 Babylon By Bus

No apparent loweroff anchor, 1 carrot over top?

FA: Tony Barton & Brogan Bunt, 1994

24 Sport 20m
11 Babylon By Bike

2 chain anchor.

FA: Tony Barton & George Fieg, 1994

25 Sport 20m

1.1.2. Western Cliffline 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.840465, 150.472747

approach

There is a locked gate 900m from the carpark. There is space to park and walk in for an extra 10 minutes. More concerningly, there is a sign that says access prohibited - but it is likely directed at the dirtbag camping area and the dirt bike tracks. It's crown land and as such it's public access.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kadimirra / Ka-Dimirra

FA: Brogan Bunt, 1993

19 Sport 15m, 3
2 Bel Merodach

Optional friend through runout.

FA: Brogan Bunt & Richard Watts, 1993

21 Sport 15m, 5
3 Don't Look Back / Marouse de Watt

Direct start to BM

FA: Unknown, 2000

27 Sport 15m, 5
4 Gomorrah

FA: Richard Watts, 1993

26 Sport 18m, 9
5 Sodom

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1993

25 Sport 18m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 To Much Salt

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1994

24 Sport 8m, 2
7 Muielliba
  1. 12m (18)

  2. 8m (23)

FA: Brogan Bunt & Jamie McCready, 1994

23 Mixed trad 20m, 2, 4
8 Waramsin / Naram-Sin

FA: Brogan Bunt & Tony Barton, 1994

22 Sport 15m, 4
9 Dintir

FA: Brogan Bunt & Richard Watts, 1993

20 Sport 15m, 5
10 Balbal

FA: Brogan Bunt & Richard Watts, 1993

22 Sport 20m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Zamama

FA: Brogan Bunt & Tony Barton, 1994

21 Mixed trad 15m, 3
12 Blowing Gumby

7RB to single U anchor.

FA: Brian Rattenbury

22 Sport 25m, 7
13 Gumby's Dark Side

9RB to Single U anchor.

FA: Brian Rattenbury

25 Sport 25m, 9
14 The Craic

FA: Unknown, 1999

25 Trad 20m
15 Predat-ur

FA: Brogan Bunt (Solo), 1994

7 Trad 10m

1.1.3. Babbling Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.838771, 150.474365

description

30 Degrees overhanging 18m high awesome orange rock!!

approach

There is a locked gate 900m from the carpark. There is space to park and walk in for an extra 10 minutes. More concerningly, there is a sign that says access prohibited - but it is likely directed at the dirtbag camping area and the dirt bike tracks. It's crown land and as such it's public access.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Something Jumpy

Start from the left side of the wall. Move right on good holds to big dyno then tough moves to the top...stay out of the cave!!

26 Sport 15m, 6
2 Daddy Issues

The direct start to Something Jumpy, begin with the first two bolts of Daddy Cool clipped and then tackle some independent climbing to meet SJ at the dyno.

FA: Danny Ewald

27 Sport
3 Daddy Cool

The awesome line to the left of Father Figure, starts under the roof and then climbs the orange wall to the right of the cave.

FA: Martin Grymel, 2022

28 Sport
4 Father Figure

The right hand route. Sweet moves to good rest then bouldery crux... awesome

FA: Graham Fairbairn

28 Sport 18m, 8
5 Babbling

FA: Richard Watts & Vera Wong, 1993

25 Trad 20m

1.1.4. Jumjuma 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

approach

Its apparently further south along the Western Cliffline, past the gully. To be checked and located next visit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Assur-Bani-Pal

FA: Brogan Bunt & Richard Watts, 1993

19 Trad 15m
2 Wallaby

FA: Robyn Cleland, 1993

19 Trad 15m

1.2. The Gaza Strip 30 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.834732, 150.471953

approach

Bugong Road off Illaroo Road out of West Nowra. Navigate to (-34.83297, 150.47324).

The power line access track gate here is now locked, presumably to stop people driving cars off the cliff. You will have to find a spot along Bugong Road to park (limited!) and walk back.

Once along the access track you can either head right to the power lines and the cliff access rungs, or head left for a few hundred meters for the descent scramble gully (reaching 'Dead Cat Wall').

The path along the cliff to the descent gully is not marked, and the way down and through the jungle will be a hassle with a big pack. Be prepared!

Alternatively if you know where you are going you can rappel straight down the route of your choice.

The location of the access rungs has been geolocated on thecrag map for your convenience, and will take you down past the 'Falafel Wall'.

history

Tony Barten, Brogan Bunt, George Fieg, Sarah Fieg - 1990's. Unknown development since then. Remains of carrot bolts and replacement ring bolts.

1.2.1. Dead Cat Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.835105, 150.474421

description

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

© (Ashy)
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wogpumpa

FA: George Fieg, 1994

20 Sport 10m
2 Murray

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1994

18 Sport 10m
3 China Blue

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1994

23 Sport 15m
4 Tig

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1994

19 Sport 10m
5 Au Naturelle

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1994

18 Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Difference Of Opinion

FA: Damian Taylor & David Ashmore, 1996

17 Sport 10m

1.2.2. Little White Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.834617, 150.473303

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Feeling Lucky, Punk?

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1994

24 Sport 20m, 6
2 Shotgun Boogie

FA: Tony Barton, 1994

25 Sport 20m, 6
3 Pale Rider

FA: George Fieg, 1994

27 Sport 15m, 6
4 Unknown sport route 1 SportProject
5 Unknown sport route 2 SportProject 6
6 Unknown sport route 3 SportProject 4

1.2.3. Big White Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.834504, 150.472570

description

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

Caution: All routes are 30m long so be careful when lowering.

© (Ashy)
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scuds In My Duds

Climb the big flake. Put a long draw on the bolt at the top. Traverse right into the 'Garden'. Gather your thoughts, then slither your way up the slippery corner then left slightly. Gain an ok rest and punch up the overhung topwall. Impressive line!

Start: Start at base of big flake.

FA: Tony Barton, 1995

25 Sport 25m
2 Dr Destructo

FA: George Fieg, 1994

27 Sport 30m
3 Unknown sport route 5 Sport
4 Bozo The Trapeze Artist

WARNING.. Bolt got pulled out while working this 16/07/17. The bolt is the crux bolt just after the no hands rest. The bolt after also looks suspect, take care until this gets rebolted.

FA: Tony Barton, 1994

26 Sport 30m
5 Drop Zone

The reason you came here. Half slab, half steep mega jugs.

FA: Tony Barton, 1995

26 Sport 30m
6 Unknown sport route 4 Sport

1.2.4. Falafel Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.834454, 150.472233

description

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

© (Ashy)
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Access Rungs 8 Aid 16m
2 Humous & Tabouleh
  1. 12m (19)

  2. 10m (22) Climb through tree to get established onto the rock.

FA: Brogan Bunt, 1995

22 Sport 22m, 2
3 Swishtawook

Start: Start on ledge with access from rungs. 1st route in from rungs.

FA: Brogan Bunt, 1995

23 Sport 10m
4 Myxomycetes

Start: Start on ledge with access from rungs. 2nd route in from rungs.

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1995

23 Sport 10m
5 Shawarma

Start: Start at H&T pitch 2 belay.

FA: George Fieg, 1995

24 Sport 10m
6 Botulis M

Start: Start at H&T pitch 2 belay.

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1995

23 Sport 10m

1.2.5. Orange Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.834714, 150.470865

description

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

© (Ashy)
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Infidel

FA: Brogan Bunt, 1994

23 Sport 25m

1.2.6. The Green Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.834855, 150.469447

description

Distinctive green coloured very steep (~35°) wall up on a rock shelf.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Untitled Route Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Green Eggs and Ham

FA: Brogan Bunt, 1995

24 Sport 15m, 7
3 Green Eggs and Ham Direct

FA: George Fieg, 1995

27 Sport 15m
4 Unknown sport route 6 SportProject
5 Green Dream

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1995

26 Sport 20m, 7

1.3. The West Bank 12 routes in Area

Fixed Gear: Deteriorating glue at bolts

Since the fires in summer 2019/2020 and probably from age, the glue in and around the ring bolts on the Killer Loop wall is alarmingly absent. Glue in the recesses and around all bolts appears to be totally gone, and inside some of the bolt holes (observed on 'Chemical Warfare') there's a lack of glue, and bolts could be flexed when loaded/unloaded.

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 years ago
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.819496, 150.441734

approach

Lower Bugong Road off Bugong Road off Illaroo Road, West from Nowra. Navigate to (-34.81950, 150.44341)

history

Rod Young and others, 1996 onwards

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cannibals and Missionaries

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1997

23 Sport 10m, 5
2 Unknown Soldier

At the impossible blank section down low climb into W&P and then back on route.

FA: Tim Booth, 2000

25 Sport 20m, 6
3 War and Peace

FA: Colin Berry, 1996

25 Sport 20m, 7
4 Killer Loop

FA: Rod Young, 1996

24 Sport 15m, 7
5 Chemical Warfare

FA: Chris Gregory, 1996

21 Sport 15m, 7
6 Smith & Wesson

FA: Rod Young, 1996

22 Sport 15m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Ode To Katie
  1. 12m (18) 'Access' pitch to half way ledge and upper climbs.

  2. 12m (22)

FA: Rod Young, 1997

22 Sport 24m, 2
8 Flesh Mechanic

FA: brian rattenbury

22 Sport 24m
9 Duke Nukem

FA: Rod Young, 1996

25 Sport 24m
10 Calci Virus

An old Rabbit project.Start 6m right of Duke Nukem on the ledge left of Rodent. From ringbolt belay on ledge follow bolts up sustained wall to anchors under last little roof.

Set: Rabbit, 1997

FA: Matt Adams, 2003

27 Sport 20m, 11
11 Rodent

FA: brian rattenbury

23 Sport 24m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 The Shining Path

FA: Tyler Smith, 2000

23 Sport 25m, 9

1.4. Occupied Territories 40 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.812054, 150.449263

description

The climbing at OT is varied, from grade 12 slabs to grade 25 pumpers. It is located in a great out of the way place so the usually annoyances that you asscociate with nowra do not exist. Location: From the roundabout at the North Nowra shops head right (instead of left to go to the grotto and camping areas) and follow Illaroo road out of Nowra. At 10.5km there is an intersection (Illaroo road goes left to Babylon) continue on straight ahead and shortly the road will turn to dirt (11.1km from roundabout). You will then pass under some high voltage power lines (13.1Km) and Lower Bugong road (13.9Km) off to the left (Goes to West Bank). Continue straight ahead for another kilometre of so until Abernethy�s Road appears on the left (15.1km from roundabout). Take this road for 1.5km until the road weaves down and left underneath a cliff line. Park at the bottom of the hill off the road and walk 15m to the first climb. Do NOT park in the obvious clearing on the right side of the road opposite the crag in a 2wd as the ground is soft and you will likely get bogged. The road gets a little rough near the crag so take care in a low clearance car.

access issues

Now in Bugong National Park. No dogs.

approach

From the roundabout at the North 'Nowra' shops head right (instead of left to go to the grotto and camping areas) and follow Illaroo road out of 'Nowra'. At 10.5km there is an intersection (Illaroo road goes left to Babylon) continue on straight ahead and shortly the road will turn to dirt (11.1km from roundabout). You will then pass under some high voltage power lines (13.1Km) and Lower Bugong road (13.9Km) off to the left (Goes to West Bank). Continue straight ahead for another kilometre of so until Abernethy�s Road appears on the left (15.1km from roundabout). Take this road for 1.5km until the road weaves down and left underneath a cliff line. Park at the bottom of the hill off the road and walk 15m to the first climb. Do NOT park in the obvious clearing on the right side of the road opposite the crag in a 2wd as the ground is soft and you will likely get bogged. The road gets a little rough near the crag so take care in a low clearance car.

© (hawkman)

history

2003, 2005 ?

1.4.1. Scoop Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.811583, 150.451554

description

The first section of cliff visible from the carpark. climbing varies from steepness to easy slabbing

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Infiltrator / Infiltrator Part 11

Start up first two bolts of Beit Hadassah and then trend left onto arete. More engaging than it's neighbour

For infiltrator Part 11 get up Infiltrator then move up the headwall to the DRB LO. You can Bivy on the ledges for 3 days leading up to the slightly punchy headwall

Set: 12 Sep 2018

FFA: 12 Sep 2018

FA: Simon Vaughan, 12 Sep 2018

FA: Simon Vaughan, 24 Apr

15/16 Sport 12m, 5
2 Beit Hadassah

The second climb at the crag. Climb up slab left of crack.

Start: 10m from your car under camo bolt

FA: J Lammers, 2000

14 Sport 18m, 6
3 Bearded Lady

the crack right of Beit Haddash to lower off as for BH

Start: 2m right of BH under crack

FA: C Fox, 2000

11 Trad 18m
4 Bunkered Down

An old Chris Fox project that stood bolted for many many years until the first ascent. Up through jugs under the roof, at the third bolt punch way out right to gain a way through the blank section up to the break above (possible alt-method going left?), from there a stiff overhung boulder problem on small sharp crimps to reach the anchor.

Set: chris fox

FFA: Matt Hoschke, 18 Jul 2020

25 Sport 10m, 4
5 The Occupied Force

Up steeply to lip of roof then over this to rest. continue up wall to anchors

Start: Under roof on ledge in cave 5m right of BH.

FA: The great bear

23 Sport 14m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Attention Seeker

Start 5 metres to the right of Occupied Force. Punchy start thru some suspect rock, then keep on paddling past plenty of big holds on good rock to airy finish. A bit run-out, make sure you fall in the right places.

FA: C Fox, 2006

20 R Sport 20m, 6
7 No Scoop For You

Up scoop nazi then past two bolts then traverse left and up short flake to easier ground

Start: as for scoop nazi

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2000

24 Sport 15m, 5
8 Scoop Party

easy if you can crimp. Up beautiful wall past thin moves to gain scooped orange wall. lower off under roof.

Start: Under middle of scooped orange face

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2000

24 Sport 15m, 5
9 Six Day War 18 Sport 15m, 5
10 Seven Day War

A later day extention to Six Day War (18) which makes it all but obsolete. Up burly start and cruise to top of cliff. nice position up high. 3m right of SN off boulder

FA: J Lammers

19 Sport 18m, 7
11 Gazpacho

por favor. stick clip first ring and climb short steep wall on jugs. would be great if it were longer.

Start: 2m right of Six day war

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2000

17 Sport 8m, 2
12 Failed Diplomacy

Climb the steep crack and headwall.

Start: Just left of crack 2m right of gazpacho

FA: S Martin, 2000

20 Sport 18m, 5

1.4.2. Slabs 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.811990, 150.451099

description

The slabs offer great easier climbing on (predominantly) awesome orange sandstone. Location: Located about 50m up the hill from Scoop wall

approach

Located about 50m up the hill from 'Scoop' wall

© (hawkman)
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 TV Girl

Left most route on the slabs. Balancy start to an interesting pull over the small bulge at mid height

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 19 Apr

15 Sport 10m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 GMA

Start on left side of orange section of slab 3 metres right of 'TV Girl'. Up slab past bulge to lower off. Keep straight on between the 3rd & 4th bolts crux to earn the 16 - going a metre or two left off-route makes it more like a 14.

FA: Chris Fox, 2000

16 Sport 10m
3 Just Right

Up the groove feature past three bolts to DBB under roof.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

13 Sport 10m
4 Crunchy Nut

4 metres right of hibernate under flake in roof. Up slab to steeper section of slab and tend left to anchors as for 'Just Right'.

16 Sport 10m
5 Cereal Offender

Bolted by Steve, stolen by Dod. Climb 'Crunchy Nut', then up to the right and through the roof.

FA: Mr David O'Donnell

22 Sport 16m
6 Cereal Killer

Start under orange flake, Up slab to flake and up to anchors under roof

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

12 Sport 10m
7 The Golan Heights

2 metres right of Cereal Killer, up through gold towards the honeycomb roof.

FFA: Matt Tranter

Set: Matt Tranter

FA: Matt Tranter, 12 Sep 2018

17 Sport 10m, 6
8 Checkpoint Charlie

The leftward slanting crack, starting at The Bridge and ending at the anchors of Cereal Killer. Clip the first (and second if you like you ankles to remain undamaged) bolts on The Bridge and then trad it up to the convenient anchors at the top of the crack.

FFA: Matt Tranter & Simon Vaughan, 16 Sep 2018

12 Mixed trad 12m, 1
9 The Bridge

Last bolted route on the right facing the cliff, nice start moves and tricky finish, worth doing

FA: Simon Vaughan, 12 Sep 2018

15 Sport 10m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Sweet Goodness

20m to the right of Cereal after all the chossy black wall. Start finger crack at the right end of the black, up the finger crack to gain flake and up to tree.

FA: Chris Bentham, 2005

18 Trad 10m

1.4.3. First Canyon 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.812290, 150.450328

description

About 30m right of the slab wall is a grotto feature that has some great steeper walls. It features one of the crag classics Axis of Evil which tackles the impressively overhung buttress in the back of the grotto.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Every Holds A Spinner

Start on front of boulder just right of large tree. Up steeply through the slopeyness to the head wall and final arête to anchors. Contains some funky moves as the rock is tilted so none of the breaks are horizontal.

FA: Mike Law, 2000

23 Sport 15m, 5
2 Arc de l'Ecce Homo

First route you will find as you enter the canyon. A tree is currently almost touching the black wall which marks the start.

A nice sequency start up the short punchy wall to the slab. Tend up and right to final pumpy moves of desert storm and shared anchor.

FA: Bundy, 2006

22 Sport 16m, 8
3 Desert Storm

Start on the left of orange wall.

Up scooped rock to big flake then climb the steep

orange wall to lower off below cave.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

21 Sport 15m, 6
4 Intifada

2m right of Desert Storm below orange arête. A bouldery start leads to a bongo drum bolt and rest. Belayer beware as the leader climbs past the loose, crumbly rock. Finish up the steep orange wall and arête.

FA: Chris "Lincoln" Fox, 2005

19 Sport 12m, 5
5 Escape Artist

Just right of 'Intifada'. Mantel up to scoops then up to cave. Head out via steep scoop and tend right to anchors.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

19 Sport 10m, 5
6 War Of Aggression

In middle of black wall under big white horn. 'Steep' slopey start past 3 bolts to comfortable rest then continue up the committing crimpy headwall past three more bolts to lower off.

FA: Neil Monteith

23 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Axis of Evil

On left side of the narrow steep scooped wall. Up the scoop on jugs and fantastically solid rock to crimpy face, then continue to rest and launch through final bulge to anchor. Take care when cleaning in order to avoid swinging into boulder behind the belayer. Overhangs 5m in 18m! Crag Classic, a test piece for the grade in 'Nowra'.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

24 Sport 18m, 8
8 Evil Line

A link up but worthwhile as its so long. Head up Axis past the first five bolts (don't clip the sixth or you will get killer rope drag). Hand traverse right and finish up the last five bolts of the Final Solution.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

25 Sport 25m, 11
9 The Final Line

Start: just right of AoE. Solo up corner to ledge with care as you reach the top. Head up wall to 2nd bolt then do some unlikely thin moves (just right of Axis) to reach break. Tend right through scoops to jugs and launch up steep wall to cave. Sneak Mcdougall rest at cave and continue up final wall to anchors.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

25 Sport 20m, 8
10 Trench Warfare

Start: on right side of pyramid shaped block Climb right side of block to ledge then up hand crack to off width and up to cliff top. TRAD

FA: Howie McGhie & Chris Fox, 2000

17 Trad 22m
11 Open Project

Up awkward looking crack

Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Easter Bunny

Start in back of the canyon. Best for belayer to be down below the start. Up and around blunt prowl thingo. Up and over small rooflet and onto jugs to top of cliff. Maybe take a small cam for the run out section under the roof.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

21 Sport 20m

1.4.4. Holy Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.812330, 150.449878

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Clip or Whip

FA: Chris Fox

21 Sport 18m, 7

1.4.5. Second Canyon 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.812303, 150.449078

description

Just around the corner from the Card Deck is the second canyon. This wall has some nice long routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Card Deck

Short steep wall up on a rock ledge, between Canyon 1 and 2.

2 Subterfuge

On left side of ledge under corner, layback up steep pumpy corner past 5 bolts to final slab top out.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2000

22 Sport 15m, 5
3 The Ace of Spades

Up steep scoop past 3 bolts, then use a long sling on 4th bolt before traversing left to clip the last bolt of 'Subterfuge' and finish as for that route.

The guidebook states "despite appearances the rock is very solid", but the rock scars suggest otherwise.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

22 Sport 15m, 4
4 Open Project SportProject 13m, 4

A little past The Card Deck is a long grey wall with a small rock ledge above the ground

6 Township Rebellion

In the middle of long grey face

A burly start past three bolts leads to a break

where the route heads right and up to flake.

Continue up wall to finish with hands on top of

cliff.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

21 Sport 23m, 8
7 Mr Donut Head Man

Start at short flake under obvious arête

Up flake and right to 2nd bolt then tricky move to

rest. Reachy move through bulge and up the nice

technical arête to slopey top. Only single lower off

at this stage as continuation up top arête may

eventuate.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

23 Sport 13m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
7 Predat-ur Trad 10m 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
8 Access Rungs Aid 16m 1.2.4. Falafel Wall
9 Freshkigal Trad 20m 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
11 Bearded Lady Trad 18m 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
12 Cereal Killer Sport 10m 1.4.2. Slabs
Checkpoint Charlie Mixed trad 12m, 1 1.4.2. Slabs
13 Just Right Sport 10m 1.4.2. Slabs
14 Beit Hadassah Sport 18m, 6 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
15 TV Girl Sport 10m, 4 1.4.2. Slabs
The Bridge Sport 10m, 5 1.4.2. Slabs
15/16 Infiltrator Sport 12m, 5 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
16 Crunchy Nut Sport 10m 1.4.2. Slabs
GMA Sport 10m 1.4.2. Slabs
17 Difference Of Opinion Sport 10m 1.2.1. Dead Cat Wall
Gazpacho Sport 8m, 2 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
The Golan Heights Sport 10m, 6 1.4.2. Slabs
Trench Warfare Trad 22m 1.4.3. First Canyon
18 Au Naturelle Sport 10m 1.2.1. Dead Cat Wall
Murray Sport 10m 1.2.1. Dead Cat Wall
Six Day War Sport 15m, 5 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
Sweet Goodness Trad 10m 1.4.2. Slabs
19 Namtaru Variant Trad 20m 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
Kadimirra Sport 15m, 3 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Assur-Bani-Pal Trad 15m 1.1.4. Jumjuma
Wallaby Trad 15m 1.1.4. Jumjuma
Tig Sport 10m 1.2.1. Dead Cat Wall
Seven Day War Sport 18m, 7 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
Escape Artist Sport 10m, 5 1.4.3. First Canyon
Intifada Sport 12m, 5 1.4.3. First Canyon
20 Dintir Sport 15m, 5 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Wogpumpa Sport 10m 1.2.1. Dead Cat Wall
Failed Diplomacy Sport 18m, 5 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
20 R Attention Seeker Sport 20m, 6 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
21 Bel Merodach Sport 15m, 5 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Zamama Mixed trad 15m, 3 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Chemical Warfare Sport 15m, 7 1.3. The West Bank
Desert Storm Sport 15m, 6 1.4.3. First Canyon
Easter Bunny Sport 20m 1.4.3. First Canyon
Clip or Whip Sport 18m, 7 1.4.4. Holy Wall
Township Rebellion Sport 23m, 8 1.4.5. Second Canyon
22 Namtaru Trad 20m 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
Balbal Sport 20m, 6 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Blowing Gumby Sport 25m, 7 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Waramsin Sport 15m, 4 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Humous & Tabouleh Sport 22m, 2 1.2.4. Falafel Wall
Flesh Mechanic Sport 24m 1.3. The West Bank
Ode To Katie Sport 24m, 2 1.3. The West Bank
Smith & Wesson Sport 15m, 7 1.3. The West Bank
Cereal Offender Sport 16m 1.4.2. Slabs
Arc de l'Ecce Homo Sport 16m, 8 1.4.3. First Canyon
Subterfuge Sport 15m, 5 1.4.5. Second Canyon
The Ace of Spades Sport 15m, 4 1.4.5. Second Canyon
23 Ishtar Sport 20m 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
Muielliba Mixed trad 20m, 2, 4 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
China Blue Sport 15m 1.2.1. Dead Cat Wall
Botulis M Sport 10m 1.2.4. Falafel Wall
Myxomycetes Sport 10m 1.2.4. Falafel Wall
Swishtawook Sport 10m 1.2.4. Falafel Wall
Infidel Sport 25m 1.2.5. Orange Wall
Cannibals and Missionaries Sport 10m, 5 1.3. The West Bank
Rodent Sport 24m, 8 1.3. The West Bank
The Shining Path Sport 25m, 9 1.3. The West Bank
The Occupied Force Sport 14m, 5 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
Every Holds A Spinner Sport 15m, 5 1.4.3. First Canyon
War Of Aggression Sport 15m 1.4.3. First Canyon
Mr Donut Head Man Sport 13m 1.4.5. Second Canyon
24 Babylon By Bus Sport 20m 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
Juliet Sport 15m 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
Namtaru Direct Sport 20m 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
To Much Salt Sport 8m, 2 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Feeling Lucky, Punk? Sport 20m, 6 1.2.2. Little White Wall
Shawarma Sport 10m 1.2.4. Falafel Wall
Green Eggs and Ham Sport 15m, 7 1.2.6. The Green Wall
Killer Loop Sport 15m, 7 1.3. The West Bank
No Scoop For You Sport 15m, 5 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
Scoop Party Sport 15m, 5 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
Axis of Evil Sport 18m, 8 1.4.3. First Canyon
25 Babylon By Bike Sport 20m 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
Ningishzida Sport 15m 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
Gumby's Dark Side Sport 25m, 9 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Sodom Sport 18m, 9 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
The Craic Trad 20m 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Babbling Trad 20m 1.1.3. Babbling Wall
Shotgun Boogie Sport 20m, 6 1.2.2. Little White Wall
Scuds In My Duds Sport 25m 1.2.3. Big White Wall
Duke Nukem Sport 24m 1.3. The West Bank
Unknown Soldier Sport 20m, 6 1.3. The West Bank
War and Peace Sport 20m, 7 1.3. The West Bank
Bunkered Down Sport 10m, 4 1.4.1. Scoop Wall
Evil Line Sport 25m, 11 1.4.3. First Canyon
The Final Line Sport 20m, 8 1.4.3. First Canyon
26 Gomorrah Sport 18m, 9 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Something Jumpy Sport 15m, 6 1.1.3. Babbling Wall
Bozo The Trapeze Artist Sport 30m 1.2.3. Big White Wall
Drop Zone Sport 30m 1.2.3. Big White Wall
Green Dream Sport 20m, 7 1.2.6. The Green Wall
27 Don't Look Back Sport 15m, 5 1.1.2. Western Cliffline
Daddy Issues Sport 1.1.3. Babbling Wall
Pale Rider Sport 15m, 6 1.2.2. Little White Wall
Dr Destructo Sport 30m 1.2.3. Big White Wall
Green Eggs and Ham Direct Sport 15m 1.2.6. The Green Wall
Calci Virus Sport 20m, 11 1.3. The West Bank
28 Daddy Cool Sport 1.1.3. Babbling Wall
Father Figure Sport 18m, 8 1.1.3. Babbling Wall
? Project Sport 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
Unknown sport route Sport 20m 1.1.1. Eastern Cliffline
Unknown sport route 1 SportProject 1.2.2. Little White Wall
Unknown sport route 2 SportProject 6 1.2.2. Little White Wall
Unknown sport route 3 SportProject 4 1.2.2. Little White Wall
Unknown sport route 4 Sport 1.2.3. Big White Wall
Unknown sport route 5 Sport 1.2.3. Big White Wall
Unknown sport route 6 SportProject 1.2.6. The Green Wall
Untitled Route Trad 1.2.6. The Green Wall
Open Project Sport 20m 1.4.3. First Canyon
Open Project SportProject 13m, 4 1.4.5. Second Canyon
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