Routes in Middle Ground

Left arete of alcove, directly below Sunset Boulevard. Fine overhung slapping that is clearly visible from the ledge above. Worth the extra 2 minute walk.

Face between Enlaecmnt arete and Karate Chops roof crack. Climb small banksia to cavelet on lip of cave. Wave up the techy nice face above. Top-rope only at the moment.

Choosy roof crack then splitter hand crack up wall 10m left of Enlacement. This has only been top-roped. Needs more hammering of choss before I dare to lead it!

Starts just right of the crack on the steep orange wall then traverses around the arete, not as nice as "Spinner" and a touch harder.

Same start as Two Up then just blast up thru the orange squeeze out onto the arete where it meets the roof. Finishes at Two Up anchors.

The corner crack through offwidth roof 3m right of Sunset Boulevard.

"Write it up as something along the lines of if you're feeling weak and want to cheat the direct start the easy crack option is 1 or 2 grades easier...

But the start pockets are a fun sequence..." Rick Phillips & everyone else who has climbed this route.

30 meters from the rungs at the first orange wall, has two pockets to start the climb than on the wall until you push out onto the arete.

Starts in middle of black wall just around from Sunset Boulevard, then goes out to the right hand arete

Climbs the right side of the the Establishment wall. Nice big jugs the whole way.

Your arms will feel like they got thumped by five bouncers in a basement. Start up ramp as for 'The Establishment', then take left line of rings up middle of immaculate orange face, joining back into 'The Establishment' at the fifth bolt with a wild lunge right to the arête.

Up the centre of the wall L of Ivy Bouncers joining this just before the crux.

The steep, overhanging corner crack sporting stainless steel. Stem, jam and layback - just like a trad route.

Just after steep white pocketed wall on undercut orange arete. Bouldery start best to extend 4th draw

Start: In undercut steep blank roof with super bouldery moves to get the obvious pocket. Power through roof with balance to chains.

Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. Start 3m R of Dixie Normous, Steep and powerful start leads to bouldery climbing leading righwards to arete. Power endurance test piece.

Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. The rightward trending flake feature. Start as for 'Long Dong Silver'. After tackling the initial roof head right along the flake and on to jugs and anchors.

Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. Punchy right facing flake in the center of the pocketed wall. Stick clip first bolt, steep start through roof then follow the line of bolts left and up.

Just a slap right of Lap Dance, punchy start leads to a bouldery rightward traverse before heading up to the anchors for glory.

Classic of the genre! The most popular route in the cave, and very powerful! 4th line of rings from the left hand arete. 'Steep' start to large square pebble then straight up.

Same start as Lap Dance then head left at second draw. Bring some power and a good belayer for this one. Route name changed at request of first ascentionist

The incredibly short and incredibly intense flake line 2m right from the left edge of the cave. Probably the hardest 22 on the planet. Take care clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

Very left hand end of steep pocketed wall. The last few moves are fun if you put the blinkers on and don't stem off the choss to the left. Not a good warm up.

Big orange arete with tough move at the end.

Starts in the middle of an orange wall, with funky looking features near the top. The track stops five mtrs on. Climb on the right side till second bolt then head back across onto the left wall before swapping back again, makes for a fun climb.

At the curving flake Fun climb well protected for first lead at the grade, some techo moves for the grade....Just think outside the square..

The last route in the area, easily up the striking black arête to around half way where balance and movement is required to get your way to the DBB up high.