Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bill and Ted's | |||||
P7
Highball pinnacle. V4/5ish. | |||||
P6
The face. Various lines. Very high. Maybe 9m. | |||||
P5
The groove. Highball. | |||||
V2 | ★★ Wild Stallions
Stand start and follow the jugs straight up until the top, trav left a bit to top it out. Spotter on boulder under recommended. FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Mar 2016 | 5m | |||
P3
Steep wall. Highball. Filled with holds. Various lines. | |||||
P2.5
Crimpy, dyno-y, hard, bad landing. Highball. V10+ | 5m | ||||
P2
Slightly overhanging face. Highball. V10+. | 5m | ||||
P1
Overhanging arete. Highball. V6ish. | |||||
Big Red | |||||
V3 | ★ Bread Knife
S2. Right of the roof. Up the brown wall to top out the same as Precarious S.L.A.B. Not hard but committing as there is a ledge under the landing (starting ledge). Big push off required if you start to fall. FA: Jack Folkes, 15 Nov 2014 | 6m | |||
V4 | ★ Precarious S.L.A.B. | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Famous Last Words
S1. Climb through crimps to break below roof, traverse left along the break, then move out along side of roof to big move on nose. Later fuckers! Spoken by Doug on a send attempt falling off the last move. FA: Jake Noblett, 2011 | 8m | |||
Slab Left
S0. Left side of the golden slab, via a nice deep mono to the top. | 5m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Kenny on Block
From cave head out right Traverse along the lip of the block and keep going to the no hand rest start of LF just above the tide line. Works the same in reverse good fun dry climbing. FA: Jake Noblett & Steve Barker, 2011 | 10m | |||
P1
S0. 4-5m right of cave is a large jug. Looks great to dyno from, actually crimp your way straight up and over. | 4m | ||||
Dyno Project 3
S0. Just right of the cave. Double dyno from slopers to slopers. Not big but a hard catch. | 4m | ||||
V4 | ★★ Pillow Talk
S0. On the lower wall under the rope swing. Starting in the cave, climb out right through some tough moves, again follow the cave mouth back left to top out the same as Cave Left. Might not be climbable at the moment as birds are nesting in the cave and every hold is covered in shit. FA: Jake Noblett, 2012 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Terry Tough Nut
S0. On the lower wall under the rope swing. Starting in the cave, climb out the left hand side following the cave mouth, topping out over the centre of the cave mouth. Might not be climbable at the moment as birds are nesting in the cave and every hold is covered in shit. FA: Jake Noblett & Lewy Joseph, 2013 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Capture The Moment
S0. Link from the crack into Cave Left. Follow the crack up (not eliminate) then dyno out right, joining in to Cave Left. FA: Steve Barker, 2010 | 4m | |||
The Crack
S0. Eliminate using only the crack... Get your finger locks going... | 4m | ||||
Dyno Project 2
S0. On the lower wall under the rope swing. 3-4m right of previous dyno and much bigger. Another sloping ramp to an even bigger 7+ foot dyno for worse jugs.... Good luck. | 4m | ||||
Dyno Project 1
S0. On the lower wall under the rope swing. Traverse in via No Heroics or climb straight out of the water into a sloping ramp with 2 plants. Big 6+ footdyno from the slightly positive ramp to big jugs on top of wall. | 4m | ||||
V5 | ★★ Spread Your Wings
S0. Start up Testicular Fortitude and after the first mantle, move right for a lip traverse with a hard sideways dyno. Top out a couple of moves later. Full high lip traverse still a project. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 7m | |||
V3 | ★ Testicular Fortitude
S0. Traverse in or straight out of the water. Follow the jugs straight up to the slopey ledges, involves 2 precarious mantles... FA: Duncan Brown, 2013 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Nice and Sleazy
S0. Start along No Heroics, after the undercut moves at the start, head straight up around the bulge with a weird mantle with monster side pull jugs. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 3m | |||
23 | ★ No Heroics | 50m | |||
V0 | ★★ Back Stage Pass
Follow any line of jugs on right side of main corner starting from water to top out. FA: Jake Noblett, 1998 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Moonlander Arette
S0. Either out of the water or walk in on ledge (dry at lowest tide). Up the arete and over the wedged boulder. FA: Jake Noblett & Lewyy, 2012 | 5m | |||
S3 Project
S3. Spotter 100% needed. Start on the ledge, out and up over the nose. Will definitely go, spotter needed to shove you away from the ledge if you fall. Also ledge at water level. | 6m | ||||
V1 | Mighty Mullet
Start from bottom of cliff and climb the corner to top out. Falling is no option here. FA: Jake Noblett, 1998 | 10m | |||
V3 | ★ Diamond Tooth Arete
Start in water on right hand face of arette after 1m climb up arette to triangle ledge. FA: Jake, 2010 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Splash Zone
Start from water up pockety overhang to triangle ledge. FA: Steve Barker, 2010 | 5m | |||
26 - 28 | ★★★ Look To The West
S1. Start on the triangular ledge, move up and left through roof to top just right of arete/nose. FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Mar 2016 | 12m | |||
V4 | ★★ Crack Up
Start from water into layoff foot jam crack over bulge and into LTTW finishing at deep 2 finger pockets after last rooflet before the crux on LTTW then backflip into water from dead arm hang. FA: Jake Noblett, 2010 | 8m | |||
22 | Guano You Didn't
Right to left traverse from the triangle start ledge. Staying in the break as much as possible. Top out under the next roof. S0. FA: Nick Stubbs, 2 Apr 2015 | 20m | |||
Project
S0. Either traverse left from triangle ledge or start from left. Out through honeycomb and up left nose. | 10m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Steve's Traverse
Traverse left from triangle ledge to edge of platform then climb up one meter to the next break and traverse right for 5m and then down climb back to triangle ledge. FA: Steve Barker, 2010 | 10m | |||
V1 | ★ Lazy Lizard
From shallow ledge up pockets to triangle ledge. FA: Steve Barker, 2010 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Sniff My Fingers
Start on the block, traversing left to the big platform and climb the corner crack to top out. FA: Jake Noblett, 2010 | 17m, 2 | |||
Right Proj
S2. Steep bottom section to slopey top half. Visible underwater rocks at low tide along with the ledge to the right. Take care when attempting. | 10m | ||||
Left Proj
S1. Steep bottom section to slopey top half. Underwater rock close to wall, be careful on bottom section. | 10m | ||||
Tree Project
S1. Just right of 'SOTD' on the steeper (just overhanging) wall. | 9m | ||||
V3 | ★ Scoop Of The Day
S1. Out of the water and dry off on the small ledge right of the small tree. Up and left into the weird scoop. Top out to left. FA: Jack Folkes, 13 Nov 2014 | 8m | |||
Flat Rock Pow Wall | |||||
The Tree
Bulging wall where the tree is. Very highball and very bad landing because of the close proximity to the tree. Looks fun... | 8m | ||||
★ Prow Project
Start on the fallen block. Up the broken arete and onto the face with some bad slopers up high. Very highball. Bad landing. | 8m | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Pow
Straight up the middle of the slightly overhanging face. Physical crux at the bottom but mental crux at 6m. FA: Jack Folkes, 25 Dec 2015 | 8m | |||
Offwidth Project
Death landing if you fall out of it but doesn't look that hard. Highball. Open project. | 6m | ||||
V0 | Rain Dance
Sit start and climb the feature to the right of the offwidth. FA while in a downpour while trying to clean the highballs. FA: Jack Folkes, 21 Aug 2014 | 2m | |||
Flat Rock D&B | |||||
V2 | ★ Whoo! Alright-Yeah uh huh
up the fun stuff. although tempting stay straight big holds on the left at top not in. FA: daryl jones | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Hugeh balls
Up the slightly crispy options. Good hold for top out. FA: Hugh Harrison | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ propane nightmares
Straight up the darker section of rock. Top out amongst the ashes. FA: Nick urine, 4 Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V0+ | ★ Trouble maker
up the nice looking boulder on the not so nice rock. FFA: Hugh Harrison FA: daryl jones | 3m | |||
Flat Rock Feather Cave | |||||
Mantlemainia...
Mantles abound. Clean and press out what you can... | |||||
Flat Rock Wasp Wall | |||||
Trad project 3
open project. Trad project 3. | 10m | ||||
Trad project 2
open project. Trad project 2. | 10m | ||||
Trad project 1
open project. Trad project 1. | 10m | ||||
Psychedelic Adventure
Climb left hand edge of orange streak. Bolts drilled but never placed. | 10m, 5 | ||||
G spot massage
Climb middle of orange streak and up the grey bulge. Bolts drilled but never placed. | 10m, 5 | ||||
Flat Rock Lime Wall | |||||
Project 6
Tops out onto the ledge for Lime Wall. | 4m | ||||
V3 | ★ Endless Summer II
Sit start around the corner to the right. Traverse left and into either straight up problem. FA: Holger Weichart, 2014 | 5m | |||
V1 | Endless Summer
Sit start on good holds. Move up and right to escape off right after 4m or quest on for another 4 for the full top out. FA done escaping. Full highball yet to be cleaned. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Dog Days
Sit start on good holds. Move up and left over a bad landing to escape left after 4m or quest on for another 4 for the full top out. FA was done escaping. Full highball yet to be cleaned. FA: Holger Weichart, 2014 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Lime and Coconut
Right end of Lime Wall. Sit start low in hole on undercut. Top out into cave. FA: Holger Weichart, 2014 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ If You Like...
Sit start on jugs. Pull straight up into undercling and then traverse right to join Lime and Coconut, finishing leftwards (see that heuco? yes that one) to top out in cave. The sus block jug is eliminated. | ||||
★★ Project 2
Right end of Lime Wall. Sit start in hole. V8ish. Small crimps. | 3m | ||||
★★ Project 1
Left end of highest ledge of wall. V8/9ish. | 4m | ||||
Flat Rock The Colosseum | |||||
V3 | ★ Gluteus Maximus
Sit/laying start on sloper rail. Move straight up via slopers and slopey pockets. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ AD 72
And so it begins... The very first problem of the new crag... Sit start in the round hole on a LH sloper and RH crimp on the lip. Move right along the lip to the blunt nose, then move up through the break to top out. Abit eliminate, the jug directly above the good pebble is out, you can only use the break to the right in the small scoop. FA: Yianni Barthelmess, 2014 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Are You Not Entertained?!
Sit start in the round hole on a LH sloper and RH crimp on the lip. Move straight up following the vague crack. FA: Yianni Barthelmess, 2014 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Fed To The Lions
Sit start and climb the arete to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 3m | |||
V0+ | ★ Augustus
Sit start on arete. Climb straight up to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 22 Sep 2014 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ Et Tu Sit
Sit start on the slimpy rail. Big press into Et Tu Brute. FA: Brett H, 22 Aug 2015 | 3m | |||
V0 | Et Tu Brute
Stand start to easy top out. FA: Inga Weichart, 2014 | 2m | |||
V6 | ★★ The Circus
Wide sit start. Up the arete and top. Burly compression. FA: Jack Folkes, 13 Jun 2015 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ The Senate
Sit start on crimp. Big move right to sloper then keep moving up and right to top out. FA: Liam Sansour, 23 Sep 2014 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ The Forum
Sit start on crimp. Move out left to sloper then up and top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 22 Sep 2014 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ The Velodrome
Sit start on sloper. Traverse right around the boulder and then top out before you reach the arete of The Circus. The top of boulder is not in. 6m traverse. FA: Liam Sansour, 24 Sep 2014 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Vjun
Large bloc opposite the 'Black Heart' boulder. Sit start on the far left of the boulder, some big moves rightward to gain the slopey shelf, before traversing the whole way round to walk off right. FA: Brett H, 22 Aug 2015 | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ The Hypogeum
Sit start on the rail. Big moves up the steep wall to top out the hole. FA: Jack Folkes, 30 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★ The Spoliarium
Titus into Liam finish. FA: Jack Folkes, 25 Jul 2018 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Titus
Sit start on the crimp rail. Head left out of the cave and traverse left into Vespasian. FA: Liam Sansour, 23 Sep 2014 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Vespasian
Wide stand start on big side pulls, move straight up the scoop to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Liam
Start as for Gout, traverse right to top out right of Vespasian. FA: Liam Sansour, 7 Oct 2014 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Gout
Start as for Black Heart. Press out right and up to top out. FA: Will Watkins, 2014 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Black Heart
Sit start on two diagonal holds. Move out left and then powerfully up to top out. FA: Will Watkins, 2014 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ All Roads
Start as for Black Heart. Traverse left and up via crimps and a RH sloper to top out. V6 if you don't use the sloper. Much crimpier without. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★ Via Appia
Start as for Black Heart. Traverse left and up via crimps to top out. V5 if you use the sloper. V6 if you don't. Much crimpier without. FA: Holger Weichart, 2014 | 4m | |||
Project 4
V8ish. | 4m | ||||
Project 3
V11ish. | 4m | ||||
Project 2
V9ish. | 4m | ||||
V2 | ★ Furtivus
Sit start on the hueco. Move straight up to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 3m | |||
Project 1
V5ish. | |||||
V1 | ★ Hero Holger
Sit start on nose, traverse right before mantle. FA: Holger, 2014 | 1m | |||
V4 | ★★ Resting on Caesar's Laurels
Stand/hanging start on the slopey shelf. Traverse left and in to the hanging start of Caesar's Laurels. Both blocks on the ground are NOT in! FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Caesar's Laurels
Stand/hanging start on the horn/jug. Campus (or foot on) straight up to top out. Both blocks on the ground are NOT in! FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Maenianum Secundum
Lowball. Laying start on shelf. Move around the nose to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 1m | |||
Flat Rock Uppers | |||||
V4 | ★★ Revolver Ocelot Direct
Sit start on slopers. Head straight up to top out around the steepest part of the bulge. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Revolver Ocelot
Sit start on slopers. Head up and diagonally left to top out. | ||||
V1 | Turbo
Sit start on the right side of the seam/crack. FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Jul 2023 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Ozone
Sit start on left side of seam/crack. FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Jul 2023 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Walked On By
Sit start under the roof matched on gaston. Head up to the peak, don't mantle early. Watch out for loose block. FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Jul 2023 | 4m |