Ascents of Beans on Toast

Nice moves though the top half. Take small cams for the middle section as there is a ground fall risk.

Jumped on this without reading the guide because I saw the cool flake. Bottom part before the ledge was covered in lichen and spiderwebs, very appealing. Also, didn’t realise that the middle 10m or so isn’t bolted and didn’t have gear on me. This left everyone asking “why the f wouldn’t you just put one more bolt on it, specify it’s mixed, or not bolt at all and leave it trad”. After much faff and slinging of a chockstone the rest of the route was pretty sick, epic flake with your pick or jugs or jams on a hollow (probably bomber?) flake to a rusty single, large U bolt anchor with 2 loweroffs (yay for redundancy...) Considering the bolting, I’m not surprised it isn’t hugely popular although it somewhat adds to the appeal. Can’t decide if it’s 3 stars or 0

The bottom is covered in lichen and pretty crap. Very run out above a ledge. The flake at the top is nice. Certainly not a good clean 16

Somehow did this with only 2 brackets. Dodgyyyyy.

Super run out but it’s fine just dnt slip just used plates. Watch the flake a peace is really loose and wouldn’t be a good fall.

Climbed it just on bolts. Sweet climbing and rock. Just beware the loose part of the flake on headwall

Fun Climb! Did it as a sport climb... bit run out between the 2nd and 3rd.

There is a huge slab of rock loose around the 4th bolt mark on the route. Very scary - do not pull on the left side of the crack where it is clearly separated from the main crack.

There is roughly an 8 metre gap between the 2nd and 3rd bolt on this route, further than the ground to the 2nd bolt. I would highly advise against climbing this route without additional nuts.

loose flake

super runout

First carrot run. Runout

Super runout...

Need bolt plates and a long sling (missing 3rd bolt)

Good climbing, could possibly do with new anchors at the top. Current u-bolt anchor is getting rusted and worn

Bad start. Gets better on flake, needs loose boulders removed higher up though

Pretty good climbing but a bit sketchy. Long ground-fall run-out in the first half and some seriously loose blocks in the flake. Seconded a trad lead of it (good gear to be had once at the flake).

Slab, then mantles, then flake. What's not to like? As long as you take up a rack of nuts for the middle section, at least...

A bit Runout, up over the slab, then flake to glory, a heap of fun

in boots!

look out for the loose ones near the top

Not hard, but run out between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Good moves in 2nd half.