Ascents in Butterfly Wall as Tick or First ascent

hard crux

Flash

8thish try over 3 days. Hard.

Once I worked out the sequence, not too bad.

Note: there was tape on the bottom bolt with "do not climb" written on it. Whoever put it there should clarify why - because if it's some bumbly's idea of a "dangerous" route then it can be ignored. On the other hand, if it's a sacred site or some other legitimate reason then people should stay off it.

The undercling is a lie.

Felt like a dream pulling the moves as the sun went down and the wall glowing orange. Probably the hardest of the four 'classic 28s' but boy what a climb! Powerful and sustained climbing on slopey crimps. Rad.

So stoked to have ticked this route! First got on it 2011, dislocated my shoulder as it branches right, took 2 years off climbing, couldn't do it last year, broke my ankle this year and finally ticked it today in primo conditions. Finally, the 4 nowra 28's are done!

I distinctly remember walking under this route on my first visit to Thompsons and thinking "one day...". Stoked to finally tick it!

3rd try. Doesn't get more classic than this. Didn't get close to undercling move and dogged past on first two tries. Went up 3rd try to get my draws back, miraculously stuck move (with subtle beta change) and zoned my way to the anchors. Amazing experience.

1 rest

2nd thin bit no prob, 1st thin bit need to get.

harsh and nice