Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dead Sheep (Dry) | |||||
V5 | ★ Fencepost Left
Start at underclings 1m left of the green fence post. Up to crimps and slopey topout. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Fencepost Right
Start at big jug 1m right of fence post and dyno up to lip and desperate slopey mantle. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ The Tomb of the Dead Sheep
Start in the right hand side of the cave just to the left of the dead sheep. Climb out through loose and dirty jugs. Needs more cleaning. | 3m | |||
V2 | Lamb Chops
Start at a jug in the middle of the little arch. Up and left to slopey top out. | 3m | |||
V2 | Mutton Dressed as Lamb
Start as for previous, go right to finish as for Mutton | 2m | |||
V4 | V3/4
Start as for previous problem, crank straight up to the lip (rather than move right) and do the slopey top out. | 2m | |||
V1 | Mutton
Stand - One left of very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout | 2m | |||
V1 | V1
Stand - Very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout | 2m | |||
Rumble Cave (Dry) | |||||
V10 | ★★ Jake's Problem
Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same. Originally V10 turned V8 and back up to around V9 after two holds broke. | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Fire in the Hole
Sitstart on pedestal on the left edge of cave and head out right to top out Note: This was originally put up as V7...general community consensus grade seems to settle in at around V5 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Fire Rumble Exit
Start as for Fire in the Hole, through the hueco and drop down into the bottom lip jug of Rumble via big move, finish as for Rumble. FA: Tommy Krauss, 2015 | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Thriller in your Hole
Start as for Thriller in Manilla, climb to jug at lower lip and head left via big move into finish of Fire in the Hole. FA: S. Young, 2012 | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★ Thriller in Manilla
Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof. | 6m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Thriller in Manilla Extended
Start off undercling in back of the cave climb two moves into thriller in Manilla | 8m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Thriller in your Hole Extended
Thriller in Manilla extended, but with the excellent finish as for fire in the hole. FA: Tommy Krauss | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Hole in the Jungle
Start as for Rumble in the Jungle and finish as for Fire in the Hole | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Rumble in the Jungle
Classic. Stand start from jug in cave. Strenuous roof climbing to turn lip, then face to top out. | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Rumble in the Jungle (RHV)
After starting Rumble head right to lip, finishing on right side of capstone. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Rumblathon
Proud line starting as for Bongo in the Congo in the very back of the cave, after a metre or so traverse under the roof section into Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole. FA: T. Krauss, 2014 | 10m | |||
V6 | ★★ Bongo In The Congo
Roof climbing, finishing on the starting hold of Rumble. Sit start of jugs in cave about 5m right of Rumble. Update: The final move linking Bongo in the Congo into Rumble in the Jungle has broken and further deteriorated in around 2013/14? The linking move is now considerably harder and Bongo in the Congo including the last move now goes at around V6. Historical Grade, V4.. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Bongo Rumble Linkup
Another Linkup. Climb all of Bongo in the Congo and finish up Rumble in the Jungle. | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Flat Head on Fire
Start as for Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole FA: T. Krauss, 2012 | 8m | |||
V6 | ★★ Flat Head
Start as for Flounder, link into the end of 'Rumble in the Jungle' where Rumble meets the lip. Finish straight up as for Rumble. | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Flat Head Direct
Start as for Flounder sitstart and traverse the lip leftwards, head up on crimps about 1 metre right of Rumble, finish as for Rumble. | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★ Flounder
SDS under lip 3m right of RITJ (1m left of corner). Same start holds as Flat Head. Up on slopes & crimps. | 3m | |||
V6 | Flounder Left
Start as for Flounder, do the first moves and head left around the bulge into the water runnel via the big sloper. Stay away from the corner and the knee bars. Stand start from big sloper up the water runnel goes at v3. FA: 2006 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Yoga
Sitstart up short hanging corner | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Yoga Traverse
Sit start in corner as for Yoga, head right on slopers into Congaline of Suckholes and finish on top jug of same climb. | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Yoga Tra-Reverse
Sit start as for Congaline of Suckholes and head left via slopers into Yoga. FA: S. Young, 2012 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Congaline of Suckholes
Sit start, up black streak 3m right of Flounder. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Swampy’s Revenge
Sit start as for Congaline Of Suckholes and finish as for Frogger FA: Tommy Krauss, 2013 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★ The Great Quest
Start as for Frogger and finish as for Congaline by climbing all the way into Congaline and doing its finishing move FA: Tommy Krauss, 2014 | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★ Frogger
Starts in the back left corner of the constant gardener cave, gains the slopey lip to the left of the cave, traverses the lip to the left for about a metre and heads straight up via crimps and flat juggy holds. FA: T. Krauss, 2013 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Frogger Direct
Starts in the left back of the constant gardener cave, makes three or so moves towards the lip of the cave and links into the Constant Gardener. FA: T. Krauss, 2013 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Constant Gardener
A few metres right of Congaline of Suckholes there is a bit of a cave, with a flat hold at the lip. Straight out through the cave to the flat hold, then up the slab. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ V4 Knobs
SDS up over lip on knobs and up knobby slab, needs a lot of cleaning! | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Smelly French Bulldog
SDS up black groove on slopers FA: C. Hampton, Oct 2014 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Yeah Daddy Go Daddy
Start as for V2 out to lip sloper, then big move left to left hand crimp and sketchy mantle FA: Chris Lang, Oct 2014 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ V2
SDS with hands matched in little cave, right hand out to sloper on lip, heel hook and difficult mantle to top | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ V1
Up corner steeply on big jugs | 4m | |||
V2 | Into The Jungle
Full traverse of the top lip of the cave. Many traverses from different starting points have been done over the years, all at roughly the same grade. Make your own adventure, crux is the lichen and dirt. Pumpy coming across the exposed lip. Mantle at pillar to finish or walk off in the corner depending on direction of traverse. Watch out for rusty fence at left the end. | 20m | |||
The Devil's Kitchenette | |||||
V5 | ★★★ The Cheeky Little Devil
Big moves between big jugs. SDS from low hold. Move up then right, then back left out roof to top out. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Kitchen Bitch
SDS 2m right of TCLD. Up and out through improbable big roof. | 3m | |||
V2 | V2
Start about 1.5m left of the fallen block on the far left of the Devil's Kitchenette at a finger slot under the roof. Move left to lip and up over bulge. | 3m | |||
V3 | 1st V3
Start as for previous problem but go right to lip, then up and right on jugs. | 3m | |||
V3 | 2nd V3
Start about 2m left of The Cheeky Little Devil. Straight up then top out as for Cheeky Little Devil so as to avoid the hollow block. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ 1844
Traverse right to left, keep going around left as far as the rock is dry | 3m | |||
V5 | 1844 Traverse
Do the 1844 traverse then finish up The Cheeky Little Devil | 6m | |||
V6 | ★ Gremlin
Start basically under the big tree, topout to the right of the tree. | 3m | |||
The Devil's Kitchen Left Side | |||||
V2 | ★ Sorted
Traverse juggy rail left to right then top out up right hand groove. | ||||
V0 | 1st V0
Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this. | ||||
V0 | ★ 2nd V0
Go upward from part way along the rail. | ||||
V2 | ★ 1st V2
Start about 4m right of Sorted at good hold in roof. Campus up to rail and finish straight up left hand groove. | ||||
V2 | ★ 2nd V2
Start on the huge flat hold of the start of Antichrist. Go left to more jugs and finish as for Sorted. | ||||
The Devil's Kitchen The Antichrist Area | |||||
V7 | ★★ V7
Stand Start - Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof. | 5m | |||
V10 | ★★ The Antichrist
Stand Start - Start on the large flat jug and traverse right for about 7m and then out to the lip. FA: Sam Edwards | 8m | |||
Project
Project - Stand Start - traverse right to left using the footholds of The Antichrist. | |||||
V7 - 9 | ★★ Anti-Problems
Stand Start - The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9. | ||||
V12 | ★ The Gambler
Start as for Trident, and instead of throwing to the large slope slap to the crimp 1 foot left instead. Finish out left on lip FA: Kim Robinson | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Trident
Start in the slot at the back of the cave, climb out to the large slope and jump out right to the lip. FA: Kim Robinson | ||||
V9 | ★★ Scab Robinson
Stand Start - Big jump out to lip from two crimps. FA: Sam Edwards | ||||
V3 | V3
Stand Start - Top out from the left hand end of the big ledge. Provides a finish for Trident or Scab Robinson. | ||||
V9 | The Devil's Tongue
Stand Start FA: Kim Robinson | ||||
V7 | ★ The Punisher
Start on the back wall below the finish of Antichrist. Climb into Antichrist, do the dyno to the ledge, then top out up the water streak on the right side of the ledge. | ||||
The Devil's Kitchen Vanishing Point Area | |||||
Project One
Project - Mega hard project - starts as for the V6 and finishes in the Antichrist scoop following the obvious edges along the brake. | |||||
V6 | V6
Sit start in back of the cave, head right. FA: Campbell Godfrey | ||||
V3 | V3
Jump up to the lip and top out up water groove. | ||||
Project Two
Project - Kim's Project | |||||
V13 | ★★★ The Vanishing Point
Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. Originally given V14 but downgraded after a quick repeat. FA: Tyson Atwell | ||||
The Devil's Kitchen Darkside Area | |||||
V?
Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip | |||||
V1 | 1st V1
Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip, to the right of previous problem. | ||||
V1 | 2nd V1
Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip, to the right of previous problem. | ||||
V7 | Marathon
Hang Start - Start as for 1st V1 then traverse the lip to the right, then head up and right ending to the right of the tree. | ||||
V13 | Healing Hands
Stand Start - Classic FA: Sam Edwards | ||||
V1 | ★★ 3rd V1
Stand Start - Traverse right to left along rail | ||||
V11 | ★★ Darkside
Stand Start - Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left. FA: Sam Edwards | ||||
V12 | Presence of Mind
Stand Start - Start about 3m right of Darkside on the obvious jug at head height, pull out into roof then move left and finish as for Darkside. | ||||
The Devil's Kitchen Right Side | |||||
V2 | ★ V2
Stand Start - Start a few metres left of the campus problem, and follow the diagonal line right. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ V3 Campus
Stand Start - Up from good hold at lip | 3m | |||
V6 | ★ Jacket
Stand Start - Up from lip 1.5m right of V3 campus broblem FA: E. Robson, 2013 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★ Goodbye Fingerprint
Start one meter right of Six V6, hang start the crimpy jug, move up and left, and mantle the short headwall via some sharp crimps. FA: T. Krauss, 14 Sep 2014 | 5m | |||
Project Two
Project - Sam's project through roof | 7m | ||||
V9 | ★★ unknown
| 6m | |||
V8 | ★ unkown eliminate
Starts on same sloper as V9 and V7. Pull on move towards the lip via small crimps to the right of jug of V7. This variation elimiates the jug used in the v7 and tops out via the headwall as V9. | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ unknown 2
SDS under roof at far right of crag. Hard moves out to lip, then up. SDS from under lip is V3. Downgrading has been suggested to V5. | 6m | |||
The Fallen Block | |||||
V2 | ★ Short and Sweet
SDS on slopey pockets, then up to big left jug and mantle. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Cripple
Sit start under steep arete closest to the island. Use two pockets left of arete, and much body tension to move up and rightish. | 3m | |||
V7 | Unkown
Hard crimp problem between Cripple and Fallen Angel | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Fallen Angel
Sloper on lip 2m left of Lucifer | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Lucifer
Good start pocket, left up to ledge then up | 3m | |||
V3 | Slopers
2m right up Lucifer, up big slopers | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Flat Out
SDS on right side of the face 'facing' the main ckiffline | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Bird Turd
Starts on same starting hold as V5 Flat Out, move up and head right to 'nose' of boulder and mantle over right around the lip | 3m | |||
Warm Up Blocks (Dry) | |||||
V0- | 1. V0- (stand)
Easy slabs. There are 3 different slab lines on the left end of the boulder. | 4m | |||
V3 | 2. V3 (sds)
Sitstart from flake. | 4m | |||
V3 | 3. Wedgie V3 (sds)
Sit start about 3m left of arete on horizontal break. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ 4. V4 (sds)
Start left of arete under roof. Up on good holds about 1m left of arete without using arete after start. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ 5. Getting Warmer V2 (sds)
Left to arete then up it. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ 6. Snappy Direct V3 (sds)
Start as for Getting Warmer and go up the face to the R of the arete and top out. | 4m | |||
V2 | 7. Snappy V2 (sds)
Start as for Getting Warmer, go up and right to finish as for Comedy Value. | 4m |