Nodes in The Farside Wall

On the western side of Peak Charles is the aptly named Farside Wall. The wall is a major feature 100 metres long and 40 metres high with a cave at either end.

Current access is sensitive. Please clean all tick marks, stay to established trails and leave no trace.

steep start with series of v7/8 moves with a delicate finish on the slab Pre-clip the first 2 bolts (the first one mainly to offset the belayer)

At the left end of the wall there is an open corner system above the cave. Rappel down to the ledge above the lip of the roof. Follow cracks to the top. An excellent route marred by the approach.

Climb corner crack on right side of obvious flake in centre of the wall. Trad belay from the lower section on top of the flake. Difficult to safely rap off unless you climb higher to reach the first two hangers on 2nd pitch.

1. The obvious corner in the middle of the wall. Belay and rappel off from the ledge immediately below the top of the flake.

2. Superb second pitch to original climb. Continue up the wall beyond the flake. The face is bolted (4); however, pro is required in places.

Climb straight up slab to first First bolt and then stay right of bolts until delicate traverse at 6th bolt that leads to a powerful finish. Ends on a victory jug at the first Anchors. The extension is an open project. It gets the name from a stream of water that came down on Henry at subset when the wall is in golden light.

Mick describes this as one of his best routes ever. Located 10 metres to the right of Santa Claus this line heads directly up the centre of the wall. Several pieces of pro are required, the remainder being painstakingly bolted over several weekends. A must do.

Starting on the left side of the dominant scoop feature in the middle of the wall. Follow the ledge/flake system with series of laybacks, mid-sized jugs and crimps to the top of the flake. Use the brake to traverse back left to the 5th bolt where your can rest to get ready for the final 10m delicate crimp fest (crux), finishing on a couple of grades easier, but still spicey, slab.

From the base of the large scoop feature in the middle of the wall flow through a series of laybacking and stemming. Continue up the obvious feature through a technical boulder problem immediately followed by some powerful moves and big throws. Mantle to a good rest before the thought provoking sequence to the anchors.

Superb climbing through the small 3D scoops at the beginning, past a good rest in the men-sized scoop and then over (1st crux) and via the ledge system to a mental finish (2nd crux) at the massive scoop below the anchor.

Open Project, climb golden shower and continue to second anchors.