Routes in Peak Charles for selected grade

Climb thin crack first from arete. Traverse horizontal break and progress up arete to finish on left face.

Slab with crack at right hand end.

Route up inside of boulders.

On the terrace below and right of cave. 5m right of Bogger Wobble.

1. 25m Up crack and belay to the left at the top.

2. 30m Trend left and up corner to belay on large block.

3. 45m Straight up slab to finish.

The open corner 15 metres right of Girls Can’t Spit.

1. 40m (14) Small crack below and right of small cave, exit from top crack (crux) up face to left of small gully, belay at top of gully.

2. 40m. Up easy wall, large groove to right.

3. 20m (6) Short scramble to finish in bushes near descent track.

The climb is located on the left corner of the Central Gully behind the Block and follows the gently sloping corner to emerge on the wall above to the right. The wall provides the crux.

1. 40m Same first pitch as Wodewick - Up crack to belay in small cave.

2. 50m (10) Rightwards to the end of the sickle crack and into small corner formed by blocks.

3. 15m (14) Up corner, past blocks over the small overhang to belay on ledge.

Climb starts from the sloping edge above and to the left of the start of Badile.

1. 50m Traverse right for a couple of moves onto the buttress. Climb straight up to the ledge.

2. 40m (14 - crux). Climb face right of corner to meet at its top. Traverse left along horizontal break until it is easy to move up to the right leaning overlap. Up this to belay after 15m.

3. 35m (13) Up the overlap for 5 metres and then step left to the wall. Climb up to thin vegetated crack that widens and is followed to blocks. A nice pitch.

4. 25m Continue up crack.

5. Easy climbing right of Last Tango in Widgiemooltha.

After a huge drought, it rained the day after this route was first climbed.

1. 50m Cross Central Gully and traverse R along the bushy ledge for 50m. A better alternative is to simply climb P1 of OWRTW.

2. 45m Start up the R trending track of OWRTW. At the top of it OWRTW trends L along a horizontal break but this climb trends R along a rising traverse to the tree ledge. Belay in crack behind.

3. 15m (14R) Move on R wall and then L across the crack under nose to gain slab beneath slightly overhung wall. Aim for the middle of the red wall. There is a blocky, slightly overhanging and slightly L trending line of weakness in it (crux, brittle rock, poor protection). Up to good platform with small crack at the back.

4. 40m Move R to corner of platform. Climb orange crack until it peters out just below a platform with belay.

5. 50m Continue easily up.

Starts in the centre of the main cliffs, belay on gently sloping slabs under overlap.

1. 30m (14) Move right from start onto flake and thence follow line of bolts up easier ground, belay at left of large ampitheatre where Homeward Bound joins same line.

2. 30m (10) Two variations are possible, either join bolts by climbing directly left to first bolt and then follow bolts and natural line to belay ledge. Alternatively climb straight above belay and then along crack to join bolt line and then to ledge.

3. Same as Homeward Bound.

4. Same as Homeward Bound.

At the lowest point of the cliffs 20 metres right of Trout Dentures there is a large block 20 metres up.

1. 36m (Crux) Straight up the black slab above ledge then rising traverse left to belay on top of block. Note the melted tape from the 1991 fire.

2. Walk left to belay stance where rout joins Trout Dentures.

3. 36m Up slab on left then back right to good nut belay in scoop.

4. 36m Traverse back left until below corner. Up this for 2 metres then rising traverse left to belay in scoop with corner on right.

5. 38m Rising traverse past ledge with small tree(?) at 30m to belay on ledge.

6. 44m Walk right along ledge into pockmarked scoop. Climb out on its left and climb straight up to belay on two horizontal flakes.

7. 42m Straight up to finish.

Pitch 1, 60m, 14R Starts on the toe of Karakoram Wall approx 60 m left of Endless Quest. Take the easiest line up the golden rock aiming for the right end of the recess. From the right of the recess, exit right onto the slab and a good number 3 camalot is your last gear for a while ~ 15m or so of slab climbing straight up with good feet but no gear. Belay at 60m. This pitch does not take the steeper golden rock just prior to where it becomes overhanging as part of Endless Quest's overlap. That is much harder than grade 14 and has nil gear.

Pitch 2, 60m, 10R 60m of slabbing awaits. Off you go, wherever you want following holds and whatever gear you find. Belay at 60m in shallow cracks adjacent to the large ledge system (Top of Fat Guy Goes Nutzoid and Endless Quest Pitch 3).

From here.... abseil down the abseil route.... Or climb Endless Quest Pitch 4 (grade 17 and very nice)....or do a new route. Rock climbing is an adventure. Have fun !

Push the Bush (14) 23m D. Shaw, S. McKie 4/94 The right trending crack immediately right of Two Moves. Gain the overlap from the right at the base and climb overlap on right using crack. Cross right and then left to gain holds on the wall, then belay on ledge with small trees.

Starts from the beginning of the fourth pitch of Conquistadors of the Useless.

1. 50m (14) Climb out of the gully diagonally up and right into the bottom of the corner which is followed to a good belay.

2. 30m (13) Continue on the same line crossing the 5th pitch of Conquistador to scramble to the top.

Starts 25 metres right of Scorched Earth, from the right end of a 5 metre wide block, below a conspicuous diagonal flake and fixed hanger.

1. 45m Up to flake, step right and up diagonal flake. Step left, up past fixed hanger then up right trending ramp and on to belay at a flake.

2. 15m Up left through flake and beyond.