Routes in Peak Charles for selected grade

From the base of the ramp, climb straight up the face.

Gain base of crack (crux). Up ledges and slightly right up natural line to top.

Follow the left edge of the wall immediately right of Ravishing. Up past 2 fixed hangers and several SLCD placements.

30 metres right of Spartacus.

Not much protection but plenty of loose holds, otherwise pleasant face climbing. The climb is at the right end of the wall right of Love Comes in Hot Spurts just before the Stand Up and Die embayment. It heads up past the short thin crack to loose holds leading to horizontal break, traverse right, up to short crack and face above onto ledge. Rappel off from right end of ledge.

When seen from the south side the North Wall of Central Gully is split horizontally by a large snaking crack system (almost an overlap). This system starts level with Guano Roof and rises to the Summit Terraces. An obvious and in some places exposed rising traverse. Start 2 metres left of Bull Frog Alley, scramble up short wall and into gully proper at base of obvious groove/chimney.

1. 30m (12) Up groove/chimney for approximately 35 metres then exit left to belay on a big ledge with a free standing rock for company.

2. 35m (16) Move left and traverse along crack system(crux) to belay in alcove around corner. Stay low and beware of loose rock.

3. 40m (15) Continue following crack system at base of overlap to belay at base of finishing gully. Scramble up 35 metres to finish.

Start 10 m R of Guano. Up slabs and walls to obvious short corner. Up this to belay level with Guano Roof.

A good direct and sustained route. Starting as for Homeward Bound, but climb straight up the ‘black face’. Medium to small gear, include extra micro friends and slings. This trad route was sadly retro-bolted in early 2000s with fixed abseil anchors (rings) at the ends of its pitches 1-4, which changes the pitch descriptions somewhat as well. Do not attempt to climb to the 5th bolted belay: there is no gear in between 4th and 5th belays and this is not where the original climb goes anyway.

1. 30m (15) Up face to vegetated ledge 7m up. Past fixed hanger half way up to belay 4m above overlap.

2. 25m (15) Rising traverse 3m R from belay to big cam placement in horizontal crack. Directly through two orange overlaps to belay. 10m R of this pitch are two bolts on an unknown route.

3. 25m (16) Directly up face past nose feature (crux).

4. 30m (14) Up past two fixed hangers to belay at the second grassy ledge.

5. 40m (13) Up past lone grey block, 5m above is crack for nuts. Trend left to sitting trad belay on top of huge block. Ignore the ring bolts 6m R of line.

6. 45m (15R) Up past bush to L and trend L to gain R facing corner/crack. Big #3 camelot. Follow this to large ledge.

7. 55m (8) Up R from ledge and easily as far as rope will allow. Belay, then scramble to top.

The first shallow corner 30 metres right of Endless Quest. Up this corner and step left and then the wall above. From the top of the climb escape off to the right.

Start 5m R of the Neanderthal chimney and 20m downhill of a boulder with a cave at the base of the cliff. Follow the right leaning fault/crack to belay in the short corner where crack meets right hand roofs. A few hollow holds and exciting at the grade.

The first pitch initially follows User Frenzy, the climb then shares much ground with Skyliner.

1. 45m (16) Follow the right leaning crack, there is some hollow and loose rock. As the climb gets steep, move first rightwards away from the crack, the leftwards across thin holds to belay at a small overlap 3m left of bushy gully, near scoops in the face.

2. 40m (13) Straight up and slightly leftwards along face, protecting at the blocks. Belay 15m below bushy ledge.

3. 30m (6) Scramble up to left side of bushy ledge and climb to below base of 7m headwall.

4. 45m (15) Climb the headwall using blocky ramp and marginal protection on left side of thick flake. Continue up dimpled face above to large scoop belay. 5. Scramble 100m to summit cairn.

Climbs the centre of the face just right of User Frenzy and directly to the same belay.

The corner system at the left arete of the prow.

A good, enjoyable trad route with one run-out. Start 20m right of Scorched Earth at a small, L-facing corner capped by an overlap. The start is marked by a cairn. The climb follows a direct line up: up corner, then R through overlap to ledge. Up steep wall with flakes, step L and then direct to top.

Note: It is not quite clear if Tsunami Surfer is located left or right of Slab and Tickle. Have a look.