Routes in Peak Charles for selected grade

The corner 3m right of Psycho Surrender. Start up this, move left at the overhang, surmount this and move right to finish.

Technical corner continuing to the right from Terminal Psychosis.

1. 10m (19) Climb lower tier via wall and right trending thin diagonal crack.

2. 10m (22) Jam roof crack, not for the squeamish.

Face, overlap and slab left of New Cleary Action.

Diagonal crack 10 metres north of tourist ridge to summit. Climb diagonal crack and then finish up left cleft.

3 metres left of Meltdown. 3 bolts and friend 1 and 1.5 in break.

Starts on right wall of central gully 15 metres up from rappel station (gain access from Summit Terraces or gully below). Take med.-large cams and wires.

1. 22m (crux) Desperate start on smooth slab, then up face (crux). 4 fixed hangers to belay on ledge on large broken blocks.

2. 50m Step right from belay then up left to fixed hanger, then left past two fixed hangers through right end of gash to easier ground. Belay where buttress is narrowest (you meet Juluka).

3. 35m Wander up slab.

An absolute must do! Start at L end of wall, well L of all other routes. Up past 3 bolts to reach the highest overlap, then strenuously traverse 10 m R, past 4th bolt to belay ledge. Traverse off R or L as 2nd pitch. Gear: 4 bolts, #1 nut + several medium to large cams. No.3 Camalot is useful but not essential.

Up face past two bolts, undercling left and pull through roof at scoop in overhang. Move back right then up.

Climb corner crack on right side of obvious flake in centre of the wall. Trad belay from the lower section on top of the flake. Difficult to safely rap off unless you climb higher to reach the first two hangers on 2nd pitch.

1. The obvious corner in the middle of the wall. Belay and rappel off from the ledge immediately below the top of the flake.

2. Superb second pitch to original climb. Continue up the wall beyond the flake. The face is bolted (4); however, pro is required in places.

Climbs the hanging corner, damaged bolt has been removed and needs replacing. One piton still remains.