Routes in Marmabup Rock

See "The Guide" 2nd ed

See "The Guide" 2nd ed

See "The Guide" 2nd ed

See "The Guide" 2nd ed

See "The Guide" 2nd ed

Starts 10m right of Riddy Wuzere below a bolt and shallow grooves. Brilliant, varied slab climbing with lots of memorable cruxes and well protected by bolts (no hangers required). It provides a fine juxtaposition to it’s neighbour, Riddy Wuzere, which is a climb from another era and worthy of repeating in its own right. Albeit, it can be rather frightening depending on how much moss is about ! No such moss issues on Loofah Groove however, and adequate bolts means a fun day out for all. Finishes just below the summit on the same ledge as Riddy Wuzere (far south end of ledge) and Gemini (~4m to the south of DBB). Gemini looks rather runout and probably has not seen a 2nd ascent. Aspiring punters should beware !

1. 30m, 18 10bolts. Very enjoyable, well featured slab climbing. Up easy slab to first bolt. Pleasantly up past bolts, flakes, grooves and jugs before a delicate sequence (crux) takes you to the base of a right leading ramp. Step right a little before climbing up onto ramp and following it right. Cross the deep groove (easier higher up) and find DBB on slab right of groove.

2. 20m, 22 7 bolts. Classic delicate slab climbing with a trio of subtle cruxes. High step and smear your way nervously past the 2nd bolt and grab the crimper rail gleefully at the 3rd. Wobbly you your way over the awkward step before overcoming the final steepening with some very classy climbing. Pad up the easy slab to DBB on the headwall. The belay at the top of Gemini pitch 2 is down and slightly left in the nasty gulch.

3. 28m, 22 10bolts. Traverse right 3m from belay into grooves. First bolt is mildly awkward to get to. Stem, pinch and layback your way up the groove past bolts (crux). Swing onto the nose and launch yourself up on to the detached perch in a fantastic position. Gloriously stem up the big groove to the right and then romp up the plaisir slab to DBB on ledge. Superb, varied climbing.

4. 25m, 10 Scramble out right up blocks to top. No bolts on this pitch but you can place some med to large wires if you have them or thread blocks with long slings. If you got this far, running it out is not a problem. Friction belay on the summit or use one or two med to large wires. Descend north eastish towards tourist summit of Marmabup Rock. Picking up your packs where you left them; summit, saddle or base of route. You could easily rap down the route if required using the DBBs and a 60 m rope but you will need leaver biners, shackles or prussic as the anchors are hangers.

Start: 30m Left of Rubber Nails at a pile of blocks and flakes (a classic). The direct line collects moisture and moss. Dry conditions preferable. (i) 25m Up for 7m then right into groove. Up it then onto left rib to peg belay on the vegetated ledge. (ii) 26m Up wall, then flake on right corner. Step down left to turn bulge then up vegetated groove, Passing chockstone to belay in lower alcove. (iii) 26m Into upper alcove then in short crack in left rib. Up and left to layback flake until it turns right. (iv) 13m Up wall, belay, scramble to top.

Rap down 3 pitches from belay hangers at the top of Marmabup Rock, or climb it as a variant of Rehearsing the Fate of Absalom (after pitch 2).

It’s amazing what you can accomplish living on stolen condiments. Rap in, climb out, plaisir slab sport climbing consumer combo. Leave your hexes at home. Find your way to the top of Marmabup Rock and locate a double hanger belay on the southish side towards the top of RTFOA. Abseil 50m down past the hanger brail trail to a double bolt belay at the top of pitch 2. Rap 30m down from here past more bolts with your eyes closed to preserve the onsight. Stop at the double bolt belay at the top of Pitch 1 and then rap the final 25m to a bolt belay on some big blocks and a sort of cleft thing. This is nowhere near the ground. RTFOA classic corner pitch is just to the climbers left. You could climb that route from the ground if you want, then join up with this one. Fun times. A fun, modern bolted, sport slab climb.

1. Scamper up past 8 fixed hangers (FH) to DBB. Grade 17. Nut-craft not required, unless you’re a squirrel.

2. Grade 17. 11FH and 30m of crunchy 1200million year old precambrian granite slab (no, that’s not a type of cheese). Clip smear clip clip smear smear. Cleans up better than Barrington quarry and no bogans.

3. Make sure you are on the pointy end for the glory summit pitch. The crux is not tripping on the bolts as you romp home. 7FH, grade 15.

Bolted for standard Porongurup conditions. i.e light drizzle, considerable apathy and a niggling southerly. Can’t believe the Boya Boys missed this one.

See "The Guide" 2nd ed

A classic route for the budding Western Australian low grade crack climber. See the Porongurups Guide (on the CAWA site) for access info etc. Deserves more traffic.

Best access tip is to follow the walk trail to devil's slide then onward to the top of Marmabup Rock. From their descend anticlockise to the base of the route. The route starts at the western toe of the slabs at an obvious curving layback crack.

1. 55m (15) Layback up the pleasant crack. Doubles of #2 and #3 camalot are handy. There is plenty of bomber small gear after the first 15-20m as the angle eases. Belay on the ;eft in a reed filled dish.

2. 55m (<14) Head up and left to the hanging flake and out under this. Brilliant climbing at the grade and follow the crack line up to belay on a low angled slab with some flakes.

3. Walk up 55m to belay beneath a capstone

4. Walk left and then back right on top of the capstone. Continue up the line of least resistance above the capstone to the top.

OR ALTERNATIVELY

From the base of the capstone, walk left and continue left across a slab and then gulley and up onto a bushy ledge. Go left another 20m or so to below two bolted routes: Custardly and Excess Grip. Finish up one of these for a fun day.

Left hand line of weakness through the slab. 10 bolts. Pleasant climbing up grooves and scoops to a delicate, slabby crux up high. Well protected. Really worthwhile.

Right hand line of weakness through the slab and then up the arete. Easy climbing on grooves takes you to a delightful, delicate and sustained rising traverse to a sloping arete. Up this and then easily to the top. Great climbing and a memorable position. Very grippy smearing !

A fun route with two varied pitches, Pick the Flora and then Eat the Fauna. Surprisingly different slab climbing on each pitch, easy access and an expansive mid way ledge make it a worthwhile route. Pitch 1 starts left of the slabby dike that leads to Fairy Steps. Pitch 2 starts left of the main steeper dike line climbed by Fairy Steps. The dike line is easy to spot, just down from the saddle between Marmabup Rock and Devil’s slide.

1. 25m (17) Grade 17, one tricky move. Look for the hangers on a smooth light grey slab. Start off some blocks and climb the slab. Crux gaining the diagonal groove. Requires slab technique 101 to reach the groove. DBB higher up where the angle lessens.

2. 30m (18) Scramble up to belay on the ledge below the far left end of the head wall. Climb up past hangers and traverse right on ramp then up (crux) with bigger holds appearing soon. DBB and an awesome view.