Nodes in Morna point

Small zawn near One Mile Beach. Super hard volcanic rock that has loads of friction. Blocks can dislodge at any time. Helmets and careful assessment advised. There has recently been a fridge sized boulder pulled off next to White Pointer. If you are doing any of the routes in this section be aware that the rock might not be very trustworthy. Many of the climbs have trad placements.

Routes are described right to left.

Start left of access point, climb onto large block. Then up past two RB and good 0.5 cam and small wire options to UBB.

Start 3M left from the access bolts. Up and left of the large block, up the slab, then traversing right near the top to 'Neptune's Necklace' anchors

Trad route with top out. Up corner 2m R of Flotsam and Jetsam. Tricky but adequate gear. Pleasant stemming up corner. Reasonable rock and anchor options at top.

Start at L Backbone. Belay in alcove of WASM, continue across to FYL and up and across to anchors on TAS.

Traverse right to left along the horizontal crack past bolts to anchor at top of fish gut ramp. Has been done on trad gear.

Start as for Racing Tide, traverse R to clip first bolt on Lizards Backbone then 2 more RB to DRBB

Follow 4 bolts, sustained climbing up left leaning seam

Follow bolts along the flake

Access is dependent on the tide. Keep an eye on the tide and swell, as the only way out of the main crag is to climb out if the water comes up.

Climb from right to left onto the main ramp, finish on 2 anchor bolts

A couple of metres right of Stinger Missile. Easy untill the end, then it's commiting and hard. Balancy clip then hug the hanging fridge to anchors.

Starts below obvious arete halfway down the North wall. Bouldery start to easy middle then left to follow the arete to a couple of jam moves then back right to anchors.

RIP Trent Lee 3/12/79-20/9/20. . . Trent looked at this line and after several attempts, gifted me (JJ) the line. Trent was a great guy and was always looking to his next adventure as well as being a gear pig. Thank you for the gift Trent, the name came as a thanks to Trent and a rhyming pun. From memory I think I flashed it, so it’s not a benchmark for the grade, enjoy the gift. . . . Bouldery start past a couple of bolts to ledge then more boulderyness to large break. Have a good rest here because it's your last one. The climb finishes at the top of the delicate wall 1.5m past the anchors.

Access is dependent on the tide. Keep an eye on the tide and swell, as the only way out of the main crag is to climb out if the water comes up.

Excellent face climb with good moves the whole way. Starts 3m further into the cave past Rent Free.

Easier variant to Orgasm Donor. Same start, then traverse left, up to break and then right to finish as for Orgasm Donor.

Start as for Flash Your Lips, then clip the third bolt of Organ Donor, traverse right along break and then up to finish on Organ Donor

Start as for Orgasm/Organ Donor, then after third bolt traverse left along break to finish as for Flash Your Lips

Starts in the dirty corner around from Orgasm Donor. Easy start to left traverse and crux mantle. Funky moves to anchors. Commiting and good, can be done trad.

Start at the flake left of FYL start, up to rooflet and traverse right across to join FYL. (Trad gear) - Easy to top rope once you've done FYL.

Start up FYL to the first bolt then head left and traverse via thin flake and hanging block. Continue to join un-named 25, clip 4th bolt of Twitch and Salivate and finish at anchors for Hail to the Thief.

Starts 3m right of Flash Your Lips corner. Up thin wall past 2 bolts then follow even thinner seam with RP's and micro cams to the top of block then up. Around 26

Up the obvious hanging flake, up 5 bolts

Just a link up from the 4 th bolt of T&S left to the anchors of HTTT. Probably a better finish to that route now.

Left-most route on north wall.

Routes are described from left to right.

The left most route on the black slab. Can only be done in very low seas. Easy climbing up the juggy slab. There is also a trad line that exists right of the bolts, straight up to the lower off.

4 U-Bolts, finish as for Scollops, or top out and use Scollops or AP anchors

Follows the line of fixed hangers on the black slab. Sharp and crispy. Possibly harder with a broken hold before the lower off.

Start of the block past 3 U's. A cam in the break can supplement the run out.

Thin slab climbing just right of #4 'NJAPF'. Take some small cams for the break.

traverse across the slab above the high water mark.Up and down a little clipping bolts as required.

Start just right of the main slab. The corner crack past 2 ring bolts to lower off.

From the start of #7 'Crustaceans'. Climb up from corner to anchors of #9 'MOAR'.

Block 2M right of #7 'Crustaceans'. Drift right up the break, then left to wedge-shaped block at top under lower off.

Line to the right of #9 'MOAR'. Up the arete past 3 bolts to lower off. Take a locking carabiner for the horizontal U bolt.

Corner left of hammerhead. Same anchors

Access is dependent on the tide. Keep an eye on the tide and swell, as the only way out of the main crag is to climb out if the water comes up.

Start 3M right of #10 'SW', up loose looking wall using cracks to lower offs. Piece of trad can be used between second bolt and anchors to avoid long fall.

Right side of the prominent arete to third ring, then hard committing moves to anchors.

Shares the anchors for White pointer, heading right from the offwidth

2m L of lobster trap up to horizontal then crack system to top. Has own lower offs.

Great beginners route. Vague line on slab starting 3.5M right of #14 'WP'. 2 bolts.

The diagonal seam up the slab facing into the zawn. Bouldery start. TOp out into bitou bush

This route appears to have fallen down

Start up diagonal left of CS then trend up and right to finish on CS anchors

Start left of a groove feature at a 6 cm size pocket. Needs a couple of pieces of gear before single bolt and anchors

Up groove in centre of wall and trend right to anchors of BC

Line of rings on the elevated platform. Best to stick clip first bolt.

Access is dependent on the tide. Keep an eye on the tide and swell, as the only way out of the main crag is to climb out if the water comes up.

Interesting climbing up the crack line, moving out right from #23 'BC".

Slab with a lot of options for holds, 3 bolts into anchors.

Top rope- straight up thin seam and crack to anchors. Dirty.

Slight overhang to the 3rd bolt where the crux is and easier finish.

Bouldery start up the first 2 bolts, into good underclings for 3rd bolt and finishes a bit easier and more slabby for the last 3 bolts.

The line straight up to the anchors of Toadfish. Travels up via finger locks, a small sentry box and crack to shared anchors.

Balancy start, up 4 bolts into anchors.

Starts on the small arete on the South side towards the back of the cave. Easy start then follow finger cracks to hard bouldery finish.

Avoid the arete. Thin at the bottom.

Access is dependent on the tide. Keep an eye on the tide and swell, as the only way out of the main crag is to climb out if the water comes up.

Deepest line on the South Wall. Up the arete and finish on the same anchors as #33 'Eye Moss You'

All bouldering, with overhung problems, an uncommon feature along most of the coast. Routes described right to left.

The most ocean ward sector. Routes described R to L

Arete that starts at the platform where there are many barnacles, up to walk down ramp which comes down to its right ( ocean ward)

Closed book corner 1m left

The leaning out arete with a knob for the right hand

Corner 1 m left of arete

Overhanging wall with fine crack starting above a small pool with purple algae

An offwidth/ fist crack feature just below overhang depending on hand size

Overhanging right facing corner

Sit start at block and up face 1m R of sharp column

Sharp column that ends at head height. Sit start, up column without feet straying until higher to top out

Stemming box left of column, 3m right of nose

Routes centred around the overhanging nose, described R to L

R facing corner R of nose

The arete right of nose

The corner right of the fin feature of the nose

Sit start under right side of nose and up to fin, climbing up the left side of this

Sit start under left side of nose feature and up wall of nose avoiding wall to left of corner

Diagonals 2m left of nose

The arete with a horn on the first break. May be easier if you can reach the horn from the ground

The right end of the slabs to jagged corner

Left of the broken ledge descent area, closest to the bush. 6 m high corners and aretes

Straight up the arete on the fins and duo pocket - no using the right corner!

Left of the finned arete

The corner crack and stemming

Up right of the block and jump out right

Left of the block