Routes in South East

Up the arete, sit start is not yet done.

Up the North side. Don’t touch the tree.

Start 1 m right. Up slab to ledges and top out. Anchor from baluster 8.

Straight up crack

Nick Foulds

Stand start, up on crimps and slopers to top

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

Far left, start in a sit start and move up the arete on the slab.

Two finger hold up high for R and small L sidepull at start. Throw high to L and then large hold, easy top out.

# Important to have long R arm for sit start.

Start in between 'Climb 13' & 'Climb 14', using ledge to balance/throw to the top and mantle out.

Gear is terrible but at least there isn't much of it. Could use a retro. Meanwhile it's possible to top rope by from above with about 20m of static line

Using large holds and good foot hold for throw to the top. Sit start variation with left hand on the crecent hold and righ foot around the arete goes at V1.

Standing start up slab and using cobble.

Start as for Tantrum. Climb up about 8m and step L onto the arete. Follow the line of bolts to the top featuring gut-wrenching exposure, and quite classy arete climbing. Some parties start up Deliverance instead.

Chimney out from under the boulders

Shares the sit start with Down to a Sunless Sea head left into the crack as for Staring at the Water's Edge but instead of following the crack keep heading left to the arete and finish up over the bulge. Needs some pads and good spotters. Boulders below are out.

Fun gymnastic climbing, featuring some unexpected pockets. Consensus seems to be 24, although a little easier than its neighbour.

Cement corner R of 'Ummaguma's Layback'.

Climbs from seperate anchor on the left side of the upper wall. Exquisite moves up to and through the bulge lead to thought provoking balancy climbing on the upper wall. Amazing anchor position in the eyrie with a great view of Brisbane city to the North.

Stand-start on the right side of the small cave- left of The Downfallen. Head up and slightly right on good holds.

Start on R pocket and L sloping crimp. Bump through good edges to a dyno/dead-point for the high-mid left crimp and finish (matched) on the slopey orange triangle. This is Grace's first outdoor set x

Sit start on face. Start up.

Start on Cobb Loaf, traverse L across the wall all the way into Left of Ferns, top this out. Not sure if this was ever actually sent (Simon Moses?). Cracking hard problem.

Sit-start left of shield and straight up into the mantle.

Immediately right of 'Gift of the Gab' on the small face. Straight up on good edges. Avoid the crack further right.

Squat/sit start with left hand on crimp, right hand on sloper on arete. Straight up with slightly technical climbing. Try not to dab on the tree stump to the left and boulder to the right.

Up the slab left of Roarke’s Rift past a couple of bolts, moving right to gain the crack

The next nine routes are on the long and narrow boulder behind the Sphinx proper.

The first route on the left hand end of the boulder. Don’t fall off, there isn’t any gear… Bridge onto the wall then up until a few moves right are necessary to gain a small ledge just below the top. Nut and SLCD belay. FA: Scott Camps (Solo) April 1986

Stand-start up the tall slab (right-side of boulder)

The next three routes are also accessed from the summit. Walk down a northwestfacing gully to a large, sloping platform.

The strenuous layback corner on the right hand side. Rob Staszewski and Shane Chemello early 1980’s

follow the first and second carrots leading right and up

Stand start L hand sidepull/undercling, R hand Sloper around the arete, small block on ledge is ok to use for feet, bring pads. Move up using heels and side-pulls, top-out scary but secure, walk down around the back . next to Riverlife / where the fish problem is. A bit of a highball, v5-v6 but could be quite a bit harder.

Sit start with both hands in big jug under nose arete. Slap out and over. Check out the top before you try.

Left hand variant will also be possible just needs a brush and a bit of belief.

Sit start. Left hand on 4 finger edge. Right hand side pull prominent low feature. Feet smear as required. Up from there.

Sit start diagonal edge (right hand) and sidepull (left hand) at right hand end of face. Traverse the face heading left (the lip and above are out). Top out a slow escape. Note - this may actually be the original start to headsloposion. Needs someone to confirm.

Establish at the corner and then mantle the arete without using any of the other boulders (i.e. feet stay on the main roof boulder).

Sit Start on juggy pinch and pocket. Up and around the arete for the mantle.

Starts at prominent blunt arete

Start on big low jug, then up and right to top out above and right of the faint crack line.

Start: At the dot (marked HA & BE) below the shallow cave – a few metres R of SD.

1. 45m __ - Scramble up to below the cave (with gear), then up thin crack on orange sloping slab, following the FHs.

2. 20m __ – Up the crack above the chains. Place gear as high as possible so you don’t damage the beautiful Grass tree if you fall – besides, it’s hard to get the spikes out of your backside.

Left end of bulge.

Sit start as Parallel Universe but venture left across sloping ledge to crimps and up.

2 stars - A great Auburn River line. Very height dependant.

Start as for 7 Short Traverse until before the widest part of the rail, and go up via a high small left hand sloper.

Sit start up face and right side of arête.

Very possible project. Start 1m right of post it. Up trending rightwards to high crux.

Start at 'Hanger Wall', 1m L of usual 'Brisbane Bitter' start.

Climb past first 5 BRs on 'Hanger Wall' clipping 2 or 3, then join the usual 'Brisbane Bitter' line at its 2nd RB.

2 stars - Super classy line that shares the sit of The Chur-nobyl Project

Straight up the middle of this nice wall. Quite good.

L1, R2, L3, R4, R5, M6.

Sit start on good small block and good edge. Head straight back the trend left to finish on dream block. Hard and sustained.

Up the corner, all blocks are in. Awkward trad-style bumbling up the corner. Probably similar to a Ewbank 8 or so.

Fantastic clean overhanging splitter crack found down gully from Space and Energy block. Hands to offwidth. Toprope, trad lead or boulder problem, it's up to you.

Start with left hand on the right hand start hold of "Straight out of Compton". Right hand on jug. From there punch straight up to the prominent pinches of "The V11" and finish on the dream block.

Will be hard! Alex has done all the moves so it goes. Give it a crack!

Standing start with a high foot straight up the corner, obvious jugs all the way.

Sit start variant for a V1 finish.

Originally a sit start problem on a low undercut(V4) (believed to have been ripped off sometime in late 2019/early 2020). This route is still a well worth doing stand start. Hands wide to start for a compression move to gain the bulge and up. Now more like V2/3. Careful of your right arm on the initial moves a fall back and right past the tree would be bad for you!

In old guides this problem was a V6. With a medium sized section of rock removed near the beginning, the problem has changed. Start as for The Seamstress and at roughly 2/5th's height move right across the face for the rail at the top.

Sit start 1m left of Crimp and Stem. Tough start on underclings under the roof before reaching blind up and over. From there a few more tricky moves to the top out.

Tends to seep.

Surprisingly sustained. Climbs through an interesting roof/cave section. Four FH’s and a BR on the headwall to chains. Take a medium hex or big wire (optional).

The beautiful crack corner just to the right of FFTF. Some loose rock on the top out.

On the back side of the Vlad boulder, just left of the wattles. Find a way to use the high slopey horizontal seam

Up thin crack.

Start 3m left of '2,4,5-T'. Hard moves (crux) to the first bolt, then easy to final roof. Climb through roof direct.

Climb 'Rust Off', then traverse the whole wall to your left. with feet 1 metre below the top. Use top as jug holds. Once you reach the far left, traverse in the same manner back to 'Rust Off', and then downclimb. A very easy problem with huge exposure.

8a in guide

Probably not good. The crack downhill from the big tree on the descent ramp and below the boulder. Tree belay well back.

1c in guide

Traverse the lip of the boulder to the high point.

7d in guide. Difficult start off two diagonal small crimps takes you to an easier top out. LINE NEEDS CONFIRMATION

Obvious corner right of overhang. Up corner and then slab.

Sit start on right side of boulder using side pull and dish. Stare into the abyss. Levitate up the arete and top out using glory jugs.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start low on L side on reasonable crimps and sidepull flake. A few cramped moves on crimps then up to obvious dish, then topout. Stand start VE.

Sit start as for Kaleidoscope but move left before the undercling into the crack for Technicolour to top.

Start off the terrace above the previous routes. Short and intense. Heel, toe, gut busting core. Turn the lip to the anchors (double bolts) however back cleaning required.

Ascend the obvious open book corner and crack. Careful with the fern growing out of the crack up high

1 or 2 hard moves on bad edges with wide foot on the low rail, then to decent holds and a slopey top out.

Wouldn't want to fall off the top. Probably will be V3/4?

Up RH side of the shallow pillar.

A little top-rope fun on the arête left of Witches Cauldron. Make your way up the arête making use of crimpers, fridge-hugging skills and/or delicate footwork.

Stand start from the rail in the middle of the cave. Follow the obvious line straight up through the middle of the cave to mantle the top.

Compression Arete, mild spook factor

Left of the bonsai boulder face on nice incuts