Routes as trad in West

The obvious king line 1.5km south of Shadforth Sspring on the north facing wall. The line is on the face next to the right facing corner. Remains in the shade for the entire morning while the rest of the wall is sunlit. The start of the route was originally attempted in 1993 but the party bailed off a nut at 15m.

P1 Starting at the bottom of the slab climb the face using the crack for protection. Great thin climbing on toes with opportunities to climb around “cruxes”, finish at left hand ledge with trees 55m, grade 16. P2 start out trending right from ledge to avoid climbing over belayers. Ascend the ramp with more sustained slab until the route heads right, small high foot and traverse right onto stack before continuing up the route for the full 60m.

Staying to the crack is recommended. Pro is sparse on the face and should be capitalised when they appear. Initially climbed on twin 60m ropes, and paid for in blood, cut ropes and lost pair of TC pros. The climbing is fantastic and in a range to enjoyed by any climber in the future.

Line starts 50m up the wall and is a steep scramble to get to. Follows big obvious ramp trending right to left finishing at the shadforth spring waterfall proper. This route is very straight forward and would make a great access route. A fall off the ramp though could be troublesome as this will leave hanging in space.

P1 start at the obvious belay tree (jutting out 90 from the bottom of the fault). Follow ramp for 50m to ledge on left for belay station. Grade 5.

P2 Ascend ramp for 20m using crack for protection. When it turns to choss traverse out left onto face for 10m (potentially a good place for a second belay station to address drag and rope length) then up and through the remaining face to the top.

Afternoon climb, does not go into the shade until after 2pm.

Easy start, up a short crack then right through the crux to top.

This small crack climb originally free soloed by C.Brodie 1990 is described in the north west climbing guide as unnamed (10). Now with some cleaning and addition of 2 anchors at the top, the route can be safely climbed on trad. Beware still some loose stuff at the top

Much Better line than it looks from the ground with a very fun crux.

Awesome line on great rock however the bottom section is run out after the second piece, possible ground fall zone so exercise caution. great finish through a overhang.

Start up a few meters to the ledge then traverse left through jenga stacks and then straight up following cracks and small corner.

Starts 1m right of black waterfall streak, directly up finger crack. Very loose, overhung, reachy trad on big blocky jugs.

Up to the Ledge then use the 2 obvious cracks to gain access to the corner, route then traverses left to the finish. you could also continue to the right to lengthen about 8meters.

On the west face, just right of the bat cave follows obvious crack line that provides great protection.

King line left above the pond. Blank face with stonking crack up the middle. Start on the ledge directly beneath (requires spicy scramble), unprotectable start but juggy (overhung) once onto first ledge let the crack climbing begin. 10m of the best crack climbing in the NW. From fingers to layback to paddle hands through to mantle then continue over choss onto top out ledge. Rapped off of sketchy tree. Perhaps look for better Decent.

splitter crack at top