Ascents in Sunshine Coast as Onsight by Peatey

Climbing this in late November was a mistake. The entire route cops full sun, all day. We got thoroughly cooked and dehydrated.

Climbing was reasonably good, except pitch 3 and 4 which was low angle and scrubby but par for the course on S Beerwah.

Hadn't done this one. Great long jugging like the rest of this wall.

Fun through the rooflet, there's holds if you find them in time.

Finish up over the sandy bulge was very average. Would link into the nice headwall finish to the chains of the 20 next time.

Climbs much better than the lichen makes it look.

Not bad. South Beerwah-esque

Fun

Backlog now it's listed here.

Climbed circa 2016 because it was there...

Rapped off a number of small trees.

Not hard, but a bit runout and some pretty average rock.

Found it awkward and hard in the sun, could just have been me..

Stiff.

Some genuine slab moves. Really fun.

Probably soft depending on how much you indulge in the arete. Fun fighting the barn door either way.

+3 to R.

Agree with Peter Martland , it can't possibly be a 12 as that grade is exclusively for chimneys.

A bit rude at 13, but a grand outing with better rock and pro than expected. Ryan linked 1-2 gifting me P3, which is classic for Tibro. Great rock and wild position pulling into the bottomless corner with plenty of air. 4-5 were pretty loose and garbage, but it was nice to finish on the summit.

Some new terrain. Started lower and further left than this topo shows for a longer pitch.

The flakes are big, sharp and fragile. Fun movement at the top though.

Definitely worthwhile. Protected the runout in the middle with the single random booty nut I found in the bottom of my pack. Soft 20.

Not as adventurous or continuous as I was expecting but fun nonetheless.

Linked 2/3/4 and the chimney pitch. The steep move off the belay on P7 was cool. In general we stayed mostly out of the gullies in favour of the clean rock. Not loads of gear but rock quality was good enough that it is never a worry. Finished up via shell rock.

P1 - Protectable but hard and awkward. Renee did well to climb it super direct in good style. P2/3 - Enjoyable, not often you get so much gear on Tibro. Somewhere in the middle my enjoyable pitches were disrupted by a big brown nope-rope. I chose life and hooked hard left onto Phoenix to bail.

One day I'll get this thing done bottom to top

Cool boulder start to the juggy finish. V2.

Enjoyed this on a bone dry day. Cool crack moves around the 2nd then mostly jugs.

Managed to turn this fun scramble into a decent adventure

We opted for a classic alpine start, beginning with 0930 coffees in Brisbane. Pulled onto the route after midday joking about not having head torches...

We climbed on twin 50m ropes, which came up painfully short of being able to link pitches nicely. Managed to link 2-3 and 4-5 with a bit of simul climbing. Twin 60's would have been ideal for linking pitches on lead and rap.

Very sporty for a mixed route in this part of the world. Bolts provided adequate pro, just supplemented a few pitches with the odd nut or hex and slung a few trees. Really impressed with the rock quality and variety through pitches 1-5 especially.

Final pitch took cams, nuts and hex's, much more so than the rest of the route. Fun, 3D finish up the final overhangs.

A stuck rope during the rap turned into a pleasant two pitch rope solo session in the dying light and a walk out in the dark.

Surprisingly good

So this was an adventure. A mega classic line marred by the rampant retrobolting that has cut across it at several points

P1 - Ramble up to the base of the chimney behind the big old pillar. A couple of moves till you can get inside the chimney proper then gorgeous squirming and kneebarring up the back. No gear but no need. Good fun and surprisingly clean.

P2 - Effectively pull onto the wall and hook up and R to the crack/gully feature of Blabbermouth's P3. Attempt to follow the best rock and pro. My partner was short changed in both regards. Light misting rain added to the ambience (for me on belay).

P3 - Up the white marbley crack system R of Blabbermouth's bolts. Apparently some people climb Blabbermouth this way, but was new terrain for me. I ran into a microbat and fornicating locusts. Rain started properly in the second half of this pitch. Made things a little unpleasant, but gear and rock quality were pretty reasonable (Thanks for gifting me both nice pitches Ryan).

P4 - It's now properly raining, water running down the wall and leaking out of my helmet. Arctic alpine conditions for SEQ.. But my well traveled and long suffering alpinist partner assures me things will dry up. They didn't. The first half of P4 puts the 'garden' in 'Rock Garden'. Loose, steep and vegetated. Found a few treasures that must have fallen from Blabber/SB over the years. Second half of the pitch was a disintegrating blunt arete with no gear. A bold and composed piece of climbing by Comrade Siacci on terrible lichen covered rock. In the rain.

P5 - Cursing the weather bureau (a waste of taxpayer money in the view of the one of us who pays taxes) we were a little amazed to check the topo and realise we were still bang on route. Only 40m of sopping wet slabbing on the lichenous equivalent of lubricated teflon to go. Despite a nearby quarry detonation inducing traumatic avalanche flashbacks to his recent Patagonian adventures Ryan was ready to go and he somehow ice skated up the pitch.

All in all a solid contender for the once and never again pile, but still a fun, wet day out. Route was much as we expected for something which gets 0 traffic.

Not a bad warmup option, good holds when you find them. Everything stayed attached despite appearances.

Really consistent climbing moves at the grade on solid rock. Very uncharacteristic for Tibro slabbing. Then a well protected step up and around the rooflet. Thoroughly pleasant

Great route, wild position on huge jugs, lots of bolts and quality rock for Ninderry.

This was pretty nice, gently slabby on great holds in a sweet position. Would get loads of traffic at ground level, shame about the traverse over to the start.

My partner broke off a hold, the ensuing rockfall landed on our stickclip, writing it off. Is this the mountain trying to send us a message?

Came down this end because every route once. Second to clean.

Not bad. Couple of committing slabby high steps up top.

Climbed in 4 pitches on a 65m rope, about 20 draws, half extenders. Good easy, clean and well protected climbing that will achieve trade route status pretty quickly.

Thanks Matt and Jay for the effort and hardware.

A lot more sporty than I was expecting, only needed 1 piece of pro and a few slings. Loads of bolts on all the harder pitches and better rock quality than some of the more trafficked routes, last pitch aside. Linked pitches 2/3 and 5/6 pretty comfortably. Ripper day on the mountain, thanks to John for gifting me the stellar 4th pitch arete. Deserves more traffic.

Took the opportunity to wander up here with Sir Alex Moogie himself. Pitches 1-5 are generic Tibro slab with the occasional move to make you think. Bolts are adequate and in good condition. The crux crack is deceptively steep, airy and a calf burner. Alex linked P7 to the final anchor of SB/BB.

Rapped down what we later discovered was El Scorcho on a doubled 70m. Non AMGA certified shenanigans ensued.