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Granite Belt |
Donnelly's Castle
Fantastic quality boulders all within 200 meters of one another. Densely packed blocs of great quality climbing and excellent BBQ, picnic bench and toilet facilities at the carpark. |
Donnelly's Castle |
The Brain Area
This is the Area of Donnelly's containing the Brain boulder bloc. |
Donnelly's Castle The Brain Area |
Crabbie Boulder |
V6/7
★ Never Really Cool Down
Bouldery sit start proj on good sized holds. Funky. Named after watching a hard warm up flash by a ol timer- “was that your warm up?” The ol timer replied, "I never really cool down" |
V4
★ Crabbie Pants
Straight up front face using sidepulls, slopers and crimps. Top out up high slab, arete. |
V2
★★ Process
Stand start hands on positive edges then straight up with various good edges. |
V2
★★ Tank Of Gas and A Radio Song
Stand or jump start on the left side of the bloc, with choice of jugs LH and RH edge. Punch straight up to a tall top. |
V6
★★★ 8 Months Of Winter
Who doesn’t like dynamic climbing on crimps. Stand start in the vertical crack, with small crimps for hands. Nice rock and sustained moves. |
V8
★★★ 11 Months of Summer
Hope you have been training your crimp strength on 8mm’s. Squat start on the left side of the bloc, matched on low recognizable crimp rail, now traverse leftwards into “8 months of Winter”. Finish as this. |
V1
Lesser of All Evils
Mantle up into scoop on the lowest and easiest looking part of this boulder. |
These Walls Don’t Lie
Tall, bold, high ball slab. Start in a stand to the right of the Graffiti piece, and dance your way up to a delirious top. Bring many pads, these walls don’t lie. |
I Only Eat Plenkton Bloc |
V5
★★★ I Only Eat Plenkton
Stand start on left side of face, up to obvious pocket then head rightwards and up. Left boulder is out. Balancy, reachy and brilliant. |
V3
★★ Backwoods
The Boulder behind “Kamikazi”. Up thin and solid slab face. |
V2
Take A Walk
Right of Backwoods. Start on high Rh jug and Lh rail. Climb up and left onto the blunt arete, to a airy top. |
Kamakazi Boulder |
V6
★★ Kamakazi
Stand start to the right of “The Brain”, with the generous undercling flake above your head. Make a set of burly moves up and into the runnel, to a kamikaze top out. Excellent |
The Brain Bloc |
V10
★★★ The Brain
Start on poor rail then big move up to slot, then to victory jug. |
V1
★ Palm Trees Grow and Rents Are Low
Up featured arete, found on the boulder directly behind “The Brain” stand starting on other small boulder. Watch the fall into the chasm |
Nexus 6 Slab |
Squeeze project
The arete left of Nexus 6. Starts with low left crimp and RH sloper, straight up and left to victory jugs on top. |
V2
★★ Nexus 6
Up slab left of pink streak. Trust your feet ... |
Jabba Bloc |
V3
★★★ Jabba the Hut
Up blunt arete slab. When the blankness hits/ use your feet! |
Blades Of Glory Bloc |
V0
★★ Blades of Glory
Up on good edges and flakes. Great rock. |
V0
★ Introspection
Climb the easy arete behind “Palm Sunday”, to the right of “Blades of glory”. Stand start in the petite chasm with big feet and hands in cracks. |
V2
★★ Palm Angels
Backside of Palm Sunday bloc. Stand start with arete of both blocs. Move right once you hit the horn topping out on the right side. |
V5
★★ Palm Beach
Stand start with high RH flake. Amazing solid ripples lead up the left side of the face. |
V7
★★★ Palm Oil
Stand start in the centre of the slab with contrasting sidepulls. Straight up over the bulge on small holds and powerful foot work. Testpiece for budding slab masters by Shanon the slab Jedi master. |
V6
★★★ Palm Sunday
High and delicate up the left side of the tall arete. Stand start with arete RH and LH sidepull. Great compression and lay-back surfing to a high and committing crux. |
V2
Rum Width
The Offwidth to the right of “Palm Sunday”. Feels like drinking a 6pack of rums and sprinting down the street.. |
Donnelly's Castle |
The Lookout
The region you are naturally led to by the path wandering up into the blocs from the carpark. Big bold lines and a great place to start. Central to all the other areas. |
Donnelly's Castle The Lookout |
Nutbush Boulder |
V2
★★ Nutbush City Limits
Sit start this aesthetic, crimpy problem on the lowest rail. |
Dry Docker Boulder |
V2
★★ Fly Docker
Stand start, RH crimp nothing left hand, straight up to top out. |
V5
★★ Dry Docker
Stand start with low crimps, moving across crimpy, technical climbing, to a long, cruxy reach. |
Mantle Magic Boulder |
V4
★★ Dizzie
Stack 2 mats, stand start with high above head RH crimp and waist height LH crimp with ok feet. Some crimpy moves with a blank mantle await you. |
V2
Fries & Mayo
Stand start with high obvious crimps and elevate upwards. |
V3
★★ Mantle Magic
Reach/jump to nice ledge then up. |
V0+
★ BBQ’s and Blundstone’s
Squat start matched on lowest jug, climbing the arching arete left, along to the highest point of the bloc. Trust those smears! Also used as the down climb from “Mantle Magic” - same Bloc. |
Stretch Armstrong Boulder |
V4
★★ Stretch Armstrong
Start on full stretch/jump to the double hand sloper bulge on the face left of the Right arete. Burly move left into the weakness and figure your way up from there. Benefits those with a longer reach but not to be missed by the shorter climber! |
Tush Push Boulder |
V0
★ Static House
One meter or two left of "Car Camping". Fun beginner Crimpy V0. Top out and climb down "Car Camping". |
V0
★ Car Camping
Easy up featured wall left of fig tree. Also used to get down of this giant boulder. |
V3
★★ Tush Push
Stand start just right of tree with low LH and RH in runnel. Punchy, reachy and classic. |
V4
★ Double D
Crimpy and reachy wall a few metres right of fig tree. |
V5
★★★ No More Grade Inflation
Up crimpy face. |
V2
★ Change The Date
Up the left side of the arete. |
V1
★★ Connect To Country
Up the high slab on positive edges. Arete is in. |
Post It Wall |
V7/8
★★ Post it
Strong stand start- up the twin seams, trending left to the vertical slot. Powerful pulls, to an airy mantle out. |
#11 Project
Very possible project. Start 1m right of post it. Up trending rightwards to high crux. |
Happy Apple Boulder |
V5
Rotten Apple
Right of Juicy Apples start. Lh half pad crimp, Rh high on the lowest rail. Straight up on slopes and crimps. |
V6
★★ Juicy Apple
On the same side facing “Post it” (back of the same Boulder as H.A). Sit start the blunt arete trending leftwards. |
V4
★★★ Happy Apple
Sit-start matched to the right on distinct rail, then head up and left to top out. A moderate test piece, and one of the best of the grade in the state. |
V5
★★ Hippy Apple
Left variation of 'Happy Apple'. Sit start then straight up |
V2
★ Moon Patrol
Better than it looks. Great funky moves up the left side of arete. May have crumbly rock around arete but comes good with brushing. |
Palm Cove Slab |
V3
★★ Lookout's lookout
An intricate slab problem starting on a good left foot, finger pad mono for the left and a slap with some dimples in it for you right. Delicate moves right and then ascend trending left to stay on the face as long as you can. Bailing early is tempting but detracts from the length of slab available to you! |
V0
Mimi Arete
Stand start with choices of either crimps of side pulls on the short arete, opposite the Palm Cove chasm- next to Face Palm. |
V2
★ Desert Island Hammock
walk roughly half the way into the crack off the end of the lookout and nestle yourself into your best Egyptian and get chimneying! Good holds abound at the lips on both sides of the top take your time and find them. Care to be taken at the top of this chimney, a fall from the top would not end well. |
V4
★★ The Cowboy Cha Cha
Great thin slab, first problem of the slab wall down the chasm. Get those feet working. |
V4
★★ Palm Cove
Excellent low angled thin slab through shallow scoop- starts 3m’s right of “The Cowboy Cha Cha”. More and more footers appear on close inspection |
V2
★ Free The Flag
Nice slab on solid edges. |
V2
★ Ferntastico
Low angled slab on solid rock on the right side of the corridor - just left of the stars up to the look out. |
Om Boulder |
V2
Shantifax
Jump start to crimps, and then up the jugs. |
V5
★★ Elemental
Stand start in seam, then trend up and leftwards. |
V4
★★★ Om
Classic line up beautiful boulder. Start as for 'Elemental' and head up and rightwards. |
Roman Nose Boulder |
V5
★★★ The Roman Nose
Bouldery start in corner using both boulders to gain comfortable stance on arete, then head up rightside of arete with excellent handholds. A crag classic and a great initiation to highballs. |
V7
You Snooze You Lose
Jump to good edge, then powerful moves put you standing on the first hold, From here commit to high edge and climb up slab. Very much a highball. |
V1
★★ High Times at Donnelly's High
Jump to jug or scramble up tree to get up onto the wall. Head up the extremely high and easy slab on very solid rock. Maybe dirty when out of season. More like soloing a grade 12 climb. |
V2
Trad Nuts
start on arete, mantle on to the slab, then gradually make your way right to the jugs near the top. |
Donnelly's Castle |
Dirty Action Area
The Dirty action area contains some great routes and is just past the lookout region to the right side (from carpark). |
Donnelly's Castle Dirty Action Area |
Cuddle Pie Boulder |
V5
★★ Cuddle Pie
10m directly behind you if you're looking at Naughts & Crosses. Sit start right side of the boulder on the lowest sidepull, up the short arete. Very cool. |
V1
★ Snuggle Pot
Up slab in middle of boulder. Quite nice and short. Arrrd with a tricky sit slap move. |
Sandcastle Boulder |
V4
★ Sandcastle
Sit start and head out and up on pinches and slopers. Good climbing on average rock. Stick to the established holds to avoid rock breakage. |
V2
★★ Runnel
Up the nice looking runnel. Fun side pull, good feet, then reach up. |
V2
★★ Naughts and Crosses
Crag classic of the easier problems. Stand start on crimps, then head up and left to arete to topout. |
V5
★★ The Anticrimp
Start just right of Naughts and crosses. Stick to the scoop and right side of arete. Excellent technical and powerful moves. |
Best Day Ever Boulder |
V0+
★ Best Day Ever
Start 2m left of “Another Best Day Ever”. Watch the tree on the top out….also use the tree to get down |
V2
★ Another Best Day Ever
Nice rail sidepull start to the slab. Be careful using the tree to get down. |
Mr Snappy Boulder |
V2
★ Mr Snappy
Gym problem with the added bonus of possible exploding holds. Start on the lowest sloper jugs, right next to the dead tree, and traverse left up the lip to mantle at the high point. Located on the back side of the Naughts & Crosses boulders. |
Dirty Action Boulder |
V5
★★ The Orchard
Sit start with fingery holds and power up to a jug, before a quest from left to right on an array of classy holds. Top out the same as “Dirty Action” on the tallest part of the Boulder. This is a classic for the grade, on the Granite Belt. |
V8
★★★ The Big Zee
Sit start on poor left rail, up on crimps, sidepulls and jugs to the left. One of the best hard lines on the Granite Belt. |
V10
★★★ Dirty Action
Start as for 'The Big Zee', then head right and up on crimps and slopers. It's excellent. Fingery and powerful. Beta video https://vimeo.com/42103468 |
★★ #52 Project
Ultra hard crimp project starting at right end, finishing up 'Dirty Action'. |