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The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 8
4

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Plunkett Conservation Park

As popularity seems to be growing for the area, it should be noted that there is private property right in the middle of the conservation park. Before stumbling around the bush into private property, please look at a map with the property lines. If you can't find/Navigate a map, ask someone who knows. DO NOT, under any circumstances, go into the private property unless you have permission from the landowners. Unfortunately, the fence lines have seen better days and have fallen over in many places, so if you stick to the established areas, you will be fine.

UPDATE 20/8/2023

It’s now no secret that there is some incredible looking boulders in the private land, Corey Batten has been in touch with the landowners to request access to their property, and they have as kindly as possible denied the request, even if it’s just a meter over their property lines. Their reasons for the denial of access are:

Liability Concerns: Granting permission for access could expose the landowners to potential lawsuits if anyone gets injured while on their land.

Safety and Privacy: The Yarrabilba estate development has extended into the conservation parks, leading to an increase in people coming close to their homes. This situation has become unsettling for them, and they believe that allowing climbers might encourage others to think they have a right to access the land as well.

Personal Protection: The area contains wild pigs and dogs, prompting the landowners to have the right to bear arms on their property for protection. Allowing random access to their land could potentially interfere with their licensing for this protection.

the landowners fully recognise that the fences need urgent repair due to the sudden popularity of the area, they are working with park rangers to address this issue.

The land owners are kind people who deserve to live their life in peace, If you want any further information please contact Corey Batten.

Approach

Park at the alternative parking/track (-27.807339, 153.146973) down from the main wickham peak trail. Follow the track until you see a burnt out black stump with some rocks placed around the base about 10m before the track dips down into a creek. Head right into the bush here on a small track that leads uphill. Keep following this track and turn right just before the crest of the hill when it comes to a fork along a ridge line.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Same obvious Start holds as Dawn Caller but head leftish and punch your way through the pockets, spooky top out.

FA: Corey Batten, 2 Aug 2023

Start on the obvious juggy holds, one move straight up before heading out right into mono territory. very committing line with less than perfect landing bring a couple of pads.

Corey Batten

FA: Corey Batten, 2 Aug 2023

start two hands on the sloping jug then bust out left before heading back right through pockets and crimps straight up the middle

FFA: Corey Batten, 24 Nov 2018

Sit start on the pocket and high LH crimp. committing top

FFA: Benji Bartholomew, 24 Nov 2018

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sun 30 Apr
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