Paluma & Hidden Valley Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Paluma & Hidden Valley 57 routes in Area

1 2 5 6 3 7 8 9 10

1 Waterview Creek 2 Crystal Creek 3 Crystal Crag 5 Benham's Rock 6 Running River Falls 7 The Junction 8 Peter's Gate 9 Burden Falls 10 Mount Zero-Taravale

Summary:

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Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -18.944931, 146.129189

description

North of Townsville city, this area is full of adventure crags. The paluma area offers cooler climbing in Summer.

where to stay

Bush camping by permit is allowed within Paluma Range National Park.

1.1. Waterview Creek 5 routes in Area

3 1

1 Escape 3 Massacre Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -18.866971, 146.126069

description

Jourama Falls is a multi-tier waterfall system of Waterview Creek located within Paluma Range National Park in North Queensland.

where to stay

There is one official campground at Jourama Falls and there is bush camping by permit is available. A wide range of accommodation is also available in Ingham nearby.

1.1.1. Escape 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -18.867786, 146.124780

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Escape Ally Awkwardly up the crack diagonally left. FFA: Luen Warneke, 15 Aug 2018	V0+	Boulder 3m

1.1.2. Dapper Frog 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

1.1.3. Massacre Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -18.865633, 146.127370

1.1.4. Crack 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

description

Located approx 100m upstream from the massacre boulder. Obvious crack next to a pool.

1.2. Crystal Creek 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -18.986088, 146.252240

description

So many boulders, not enough time!

approach

Drive north from Townsville along the highway until you see the Paluma turn off on your left then follow signs to the creek.

1.3. Crystal Crag 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -19.008195, 146.266806

description

A short walk uphill from the car park with a perfect place for a freshwater swim down the road afterwards.

approach

Drive towards Paluma on Mount Spec Rd to reach the Little Crystal Creek bridge after 10.5 km. Continue on towards Paluma for a 2 km and park in the small pullout on the R. Walk 200m back down the road to reach a cairn on the uphill side of the road. Take off here and gain the saddle. The crag is visible right in front of you. Follow the rough track directly to the base of the crag past the big burned tree. 5 minute access.

history

The new guidebook, Townsville Climbing 2020 Edition, covers Crystal Crag and is available at Hot Rock Adventure Centre and Climbing Anchors.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Ant Jam On the far left side of the crag. Follow the bolts up to DDB. FFA: Jack Heenan & Andrew Samuel, Jan 2018	21	Sport 12m
2		★ The Peanut Gallery Left diagonal crack. Natural belay. FA: Madoc Sheehan & Andrew Samuel, Apr 2016	16	Trad 14m
3		The Pelican Up slab and R to crack. Natural belay. FA: Madoc Sheehan & Andrew Samuel, Dec 2015	21	Trad 14m
4		Go for it (left variant start) Up the left crack of the detached buttress and continue up "Go for it". Natural belay. FA: Luen Warneke, 12 Nov 2020	15	Trad 14m
5		Go for it Up the middle of the detached block to slab. Up flake to top. Natural belay. FA: Madoc Sheehan & Andrew Samuel, Dec 2015	16	Trad 15m
6		Something to do with Goats Direct L and up the cracked arete. Finish directly up the balancey slab. Natural belay. FA: Madoc Sheehan & Andrew Samuel, Apr 2016	21	Trad 15m
7		Something to do with Goats Up groove and R to wide corner near top. Natural belay. FA: Andrew Samuel & Madoc Sheehan, Apr 2016	15	Trad 15m
8		★ Groovy Black Snake Up the V-groove and crack. Move R under the alcove under the roof. Up L of roof. Natural belay. FA: Madoc Sheehan & Andrew Samuel, Jan 2016	17	Trad 15m
9		★ Snake Bait Jam up crack to alcove and traverse L to go over roof. Natural belay. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 14 Nov 2016	21	Trad 15m
10		★★ Brain Bucket The obvious crack. Jam up crack as per SB to alcove. Through the roof to natural belay. FA: Madoc Sheehan & Andrew Samuel, Mar 2016	20	Trad 15m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
11		Short crack Up the dirty crack past the tree to natural belay. FA: Andrew Samuel & Madoc Sheehan, 13 Nov 2016	17	Trad 8m
12		Chia Meringue Up obvious crack to ledge and flakes. Natural belay. FA: Madoc Sheehan & Andrew Samuel, 13 Nov 2016	18	Trad 8m
13		★★ Mixed Feelings Crimp hard through the slabby arete for six bolts. Follow the winding finger crack just to the right of horizontal break to a top out with DBB. Size 0.4-0.75 and 1 size 3. FFA: Jack Heenan	22	Mixed trad 15m, 6
14		Mixed Emotions Follow the same 6 bolts of MF up sharp arete. At the horizontal crack, break right by a meter to large hands crack. Top out for DBB.		Mixed tradProject 14m, 6

1.4. Ollie's Place 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Top roping

description

An adventure crag with a lot of potential for trad routes. Careful of the open mine shafts and tunnels on the walk in.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Bits & Pieces / Eye FA: Madoc Sheehan & Andrew Samuel, Jun 2017	14	Trad 60m, 3
2		Little Drummer Boys FA: Madoc Sheehan & Quinn, Jul 2017	16	Trad 40m, 2
3		The Right Nostril FA: Andrew Samuel & Jack, Jun 2017	17	Trad 12m
4		★★ The Left Nostril FA: Andrew Samuel & Jack Heenan, Jul 2017	20	Trad 12m
5		Project arete to eye		UnknownProject
6		Project slab		UnknownProject
7		★ Chimney Sweep FA: Madoc Sheehan, Quinn & Jack Heenan, Jun 2017		Trad 10m
8		Proj... not bolted FA: Jun 2017	20	Top ropeProject
9		★ Dirt Games FA: Madoc Sheehan, Andrew Samuel & Quinn, Jul 2017	17	Trad 15m
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1.5. Benham's Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Running River Falls 0 routes in Cliff

description

Running River is located in Far North Queensland. The rock around these main falls offers plenty potential. More information about this area is available on Wanderstories.

1.7. The Junction 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -19.008451, 145.997626

description

The Junction is the point where Puzzle Creek flows into Running River. This blade offer's a massive double-sided wall with plenty of potential. More information about this area is available on Wanderstories.

approach

Access via private property (Hidden Valley Station).

1.8. Peter's Gate 0 routes in Cliff

description

Just upstream from The Junction, St Peter's Gate offers some deep water soloing opportunities.

approach

Access via private property (Hidden Valley Station).

1.9. Burden Falls 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -19.012400, 146.016121

1.10. Mount Zero-Taravale 15 routes in Area

5 4 3

3 Return Creek 4 Narke Creek 5 Upper Puzzle Creek

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -19.138722, 146.063968

description

Home to many beautiful creeks, gorges, and waterfalls. Deep gorges penetrate the valley rim and hills of granite and massive boulders. There's plenty to be discovered out here, lot's of cliffs and boulders. - https://wanderstories.space/tag/mt-zero-taravale/ Much like Running River.

access issues

Privately owned nature sanctuary by AWC (Australian Wildlife Conservancy). Access permission is required from the property manager.

approach

Access to the area is very sensitive and you are unlikely to gain access. A 4WD is necessary and may be declined access for several reasons, including burn offs, researchers in the area, or rain. Please do not wreck these tracks, go slow, use four wheel drive, and lower your tyre pressure. Stick to the existing tracks.

where to stay

Camping with permission from the property manager.

ethic

Do not bolt unless having permission (unlikely). If using chalk, wash off the rock afterwards.

1.10.1. Puzzle Creek Bouldering 0 routes in Field

description

Is located within private property.

history

Madoc discovered this area in 2018.

1.10.2. Wayward Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Near Puzzle Creek

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Project	22	TradProject

1.10.3. Return Creek 9 routes in Area

1 2

1 Bouldering Wall 2 Traverse Wall

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -19.185895, 146.123544

1.10.3.1. Bouldering Wall 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.183751, 146.124484

approach

From the car park, walk down the walking track to Return Creek. Cross the creek and just 10m upstream is the wall.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Traversed		Boulder 2m
2		Flaked	V0	Boulder 3m
3		Cracked Sit start	V2	Boulder 3m
4		Laidbacked	V0+	Boulder 3m
5		Laidbacked Sit Start Sit start	V1	Boulder 3m
6		Edged Sit start for a V1.	V0+	Boulder 3m
7		Edged Alt Crimps all the way baby	V3	Boulder 3m

1.10.3.2. Traverse Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.183759, 146.124287

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Traverse Traverse from upstream to downstream.		Boulder
2		Sit Start Sit start FFA: Luen Warneke, 28 Jul 2018	V0-	Boulder 2m

1.10.4. Narke Creek 5 routes in Area

2 1

1 Bouldery Goodness 2 Traversey Goodness

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -19.175547, 146.132505

1.10.4.1. Bouldery Goodness 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.172124, 146.133289

approach

Walking downstream in Narke Creek from the car park

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Beauty and the boulder Sit start on the arete. Move feet up and Dyno up. FFA: Luen Warneke, 27 May 2018 Set: Luen Warneke, 27 May 2018	V2	Boulder 2m
2		Perched Sit start going up and over the ledge. Mantle and leg up. FFA: Luen Warneke, 27 May 2018 Set: Sean Sullivan, 27 May 2018	V0	Boulder 2m
3		★★ Santa Claws Sit start. Working your way up diagonally left. For an easier alternative, you can start standing. Set: Luen Warneke, 27 May 2018	V3	Boulder 2m
4		Courtesy Corner Starting at the arete and end just to the left. Sit start to increase difficulty. FFA: Luen Warneke, 27 May 2018 Set: Luen Warneke, 27 May 2018	V0-	Boulder 2m

1.10.4.2. Traversey Goodness 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.171461, 146.133668

approach

Walking downstream in Narke Creek from the car park.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Travercery Wet part is slick. FFA: Luen Warneke, 27 May 2018	V0+	Boulder 2m

1.10.5. Upper Puzzle Creek 0 routes in Crag

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
V0-			Sit Start	Boulder 2m		1.10.3.2. Traverse Wall
			Courtesy Corner	Boulder 2m		1.10.4.1. Bouldery Goodness
14			Bits & Pieces	Trad 60m, 3		1.4. Ollie's Place
			Badlands	Trad 15m		1.9. Burden Falls
15			Go for it (left variant start)	Trad 14m		1.3. Crystal Crag
			Something to do with Goats	Trad 15m		1.3. Crystal Crag
			Puzzle Me	Trad 15m		1.9. Burden Falls
V0		★	Anemone	Boulder 3m		1.1.4. Crack
			Flaked	Boulder 3m		1.10.3.1. Bouldering Wall
			Perched	Boulder 2m		1.10.4.1. Bouldery Goodness
16			Go for it	Trad 15m		1.3. Crystal Crag
		★	The Peanut Gallery	Trad 14m		1.3. Crystal Crag
			Little Drummer Boys	Trad 40m, 2		1.4. Ollie's Place
			Running Scared Variant Finish	Trad 23m		1.7. The Junction
17		★	Groovy Black Snake	Trad 15m		1.3. Crystal Crag
			Short crack	Trad 8m		1.3. Crystal Crag
		★	Dirt Games	Trad 15m		1.4. Ollie's Place
			The Right Nostril	Trad 12m		1.4. Ollie's Place
V0+		★	Escape Ally	Boulder 3m		1.1.1. Escape
			Edged	Boulder 3m		1.10.3.1. Bouldering Wall
			Laidbacked	Boulder 3m		1.10.3.1. Bouldering Wall
			Travercery	Boulder 2m		1.10.4.2. Traversey Goodness
18			Chia Meringue	Trad 8m		1.3. Crystal Crag
			Spurious Span	Deep water solo 10m		1.9. Burden Falls
19			Running Scared	Trad 22m		1.7. The Junction
			Catatonia	Trad 15m		1.9. Burden Falls
V1			Methodrone	Boulder		1.1.3. Massacre Boulder
			Miss June '75	Boulder		1.1.3. Massacre Boulder
		★	Crystal Meth	Boulder		1.2. Crystal Creek
			Laidbacked Sit Start	Boulder 3m		1.10.3.1. Bouldering Wall
20		★★	Brain Bucket	Trad 15m		1.3. Crystal Crag
			Proj... not bolted	Top ropeProject		1.4. Ollie's Place
		★★	The Left Nostril	Trad 12m		1.4. Ollie's Place
V2		★★	Spider Pig	Boulder		1.2. Crystal Creek
			Cracked	Boulder 3m		1.10.3.1. Bouldering Wall
		★	Beauty and the boulder	Boulder 2m		1.10.4.1. Bouldery Goodness
21			Ant Jam	Sport 12m		1.3. Crystal Crag
		★	Snake Bait	Trad 15m		1.3. Crystal Crag
			Something to do with Goats Direct	Trad 15m		1.3. Crystal Crag
			The Pelican	Trad 14m		1.3. Crystal Crag
22		★★	Mixed Feelings	Mixed trad 15m, 6		1.3. Crystal Crag
			Project	TradProject		1.10.2. Wayward Boulder
V3		★	Click Beatle	Boulder		1.2. Crystal Creek
			Edged Alt	Boulder 3m		1.10.3.1. Bouldering Wall
		★★	Santa Claws	Boulder 2m		1.10.4.1. Bouldery Goodness
V4		★	Gremlins	Boulder		1.2. Crystal Creek
V5		★★	Broken Crystal	Boulder		1.2. Crystal Creek
		★★★	Enchanted	Boulder		1.2. Crystal Creek
		★★★	Hay Zuse	Boulder		1.2. Crystal Creek
V7		★★★	Dark Crystal	Boulder		1.2. Crystal Creek
?			Dapper Frog	Boulder		1.1.2. Dapper Frog
			Mixed Emotions	Mixed tradProject 14m, 6		1.3. Crystal Crag
		★	Chimney Sweep	Trad 10m		1.4. Ollie's Place
			Project arete to eye	UnknownProject		1.4. Ollie's Place
			Project slab	UnknownProject		1.4. Ollie's Place
			Traversed	Boulder 2m		1.10.3.1. Bouldering Wall
			Traverse	Boulder		1.10.3.2. Traverse Wall