Routes in Passchendaele State Forest

Right arete on the same bloc as “When The Wind Changes”. Always seems to be raining each weekend of 2021 @ Passchendale. Stand start the prominent arete with side pulls & make a tough move, gradually getting easier but committing. Nice movement, average granite.

Sit start the left side of the brown vertical face, on side pull and gaston. Technical climbing, to an airy mantle. Take care using the tree to get down.

Get technical and some wind up there, on the predominant Arete. Cleaned and scrubbed on one of the windiest days. Start on the left side of the arete with the big sidepull feature and move across right to the arete and up.

Front face of BOTB

Overhanging Bulge provides a good mantling challenge. Found facing away from the access road on the backside of “Bitter” bloc.

1. Start to the left under the bulge standing on rock.

2. Use left side and under the bulge.

3. Ledge on top of bulge.

4. Mantle to win.

5. Top out is easy from there.

Descent: Exit to your right hand side, downclimb steps/ledges.

Video: https://www.instagram.com/p/Btpuq1ABt6o/

First route done at Passchendaele.

A delicate yet strong, slab test piece at the grade. Stand start matched on the crimp rail. When in doubt, use your feet.

Left of TSN

Sit start the right arete with a high LH side pull and low undercling. Straight up!

Sit start with the jug as for “Sarajevo 84” and traverse high and right across some crimpy moves. The contrived low version is still possible but the rock quality isn’t great.

Same boulder as the ANAAN - 6m to the left of it. Starts with a palm down to the far right of lowest ledge, and goes nearly straight up over a interesting bulgy face.

Stand start on distinct sidepull, executing a powerful set of moves to a show-stopping long move. How it ends was anybody's guess ... until visiting Canadian Simon Parton showed everyone how it's done in 2016 in the inaugural Passchendaele V1 Bouldering Festival.

Give yourself a run up for this incredible french start. Then find a way to reach the good jug using the slanted sloper rail

Was first sent by topping it out as a highball but it’s a truely a one move wonder so it adds nothing at all to the grade. Feel free to take the send once you hit the jug from the first move if highballs really aren’t your thing. It is really satisfying to top out though!

A contrived mega dyno for those who want an extra challenge, For this one it’s the same as The Warped Wall but this time considerably harder as the side pull is out for the start. Go straight to the jug.

Feel free to use the sloper to top out once you’ve sent the epic first move. Once again top out if you want. Adds nothing but is really really satisfying

Around the back of “A Name and A Number” boulder. Climb the inconspicuous slab on small crimps & edges to the large flake and an exciting top out.

Stand start left side pull right two pad sloper to crimpy jug then slab to glory. FFA Issy Jukes.

Stand start either left hand side pull and right hand crimp or left hand crimp and right hand mono on terrible feet.

Avoids the hard start of “Slab Life Project”- by starting on the right leaning feature - climbing the arete. Once the arete finishes moves left and finish straight up.

Stand start Lh small pizza crimp, Rh on slopey arete crimp.

Start left hand in seam, right on small side pull. Climb directly over bulge

Right side of pink bits slab, staying off arete. Nice moves.

Stand-start this ‘must do’ semi-high ball, with small holds and crystals for feet in the centre on the rippled, mossy slab facing the road, close to Blue Moon.

To the left of Pink Bits. Stand start with LH fang and RH sidepull. A very long move up and leftwards! Very reach dependant. * Has not been repeated since two large flakes have been removed*

Stand start with horizontal crack and improbable feet. A very reachy move straight up

Backside of Pink Bits Boulder. Stand start with high right foot and holds, moving right up up the low angle slab.

Stand start on juggy flake on the left side of the dish, straight up.

Stand-start this classic ‘one move wonder’ problem reaching for the large pocket, figuring out a way to mantle it.

Sit start with the use of the undercling, crimp or Gaston and escape the roof. Grade needs confirmation now that a crimp broke off.

Sit start left of D.A with crimps and a right heel on. Traverse left along the low ball arete until you reach the juggy rail on the peak and mantle out.

Oliver Rickford

Stand start. Right foot on low wobbly flake. Left hand reaches high. Head up and right on tiny holds for top. Beware falling at the top and shaving your back down the boulder to the right (home to Michael the Magician). Beware, there is no easy way off this boulder. Prepare to either downclimb or jump.

Boulder is located just to the left (when facing Magic Mike) of boulder 5 in the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports Guides.

The arcing offwidth to the left of Magic Mike. Say hello to funkiness when it starts arching.

The obvious crack

Inside the cave. Make your way up the left side of the slab Slightly harder if you avoid the giant boulder to the left.

Squat start the rail in the middle of the wall and figure out the techno puzzle. Most excellent. Daniel Razzino

Stand start the LH sharp arete. Big move to a good hold and straight up to a positive finish

In the cave, right side of the slab

Sit start. Sharp, right leaning layback feature in the lowest of the stacked boulders opposite the torpedo area. Great hands, delicate footholds.

Right of 'Match Fit' - start on generous undercling, throw for good holds and continue up.

Right of “Short Leash”. Sit start with good holds and drive upwards.

Jump start to the high crimp. campus your way up to the pocket and from there get your feet back on and top out. Short and powerful! Crazy idea by Zach Tesiram which worked nicely

Tap into your inner zen on this beautiful slab, fondling the small nipple-like features on your way through to an exciting topout!

The thin, off-balance, slabby seam opposite Frosty Nips.

Mantle problem left of Awkward Silence. Pull up on decent holds, high step and rock your way up to glory. Take care traversing off the top.

Stand start at low bulge in rock. Straight up the slab.

On boulder 42 of the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports guides.

Stand start a little bit left of the tree. Up the small holds on the slab. Trends slightly right to the jug at the topout.

On boulder 42 of the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports Guides

Sit start. Match on jug. Up and slightly left via good hold. Also doubles as a decent downclimb off this boulder.

Cheeky little one-move wonder. Start on the two nice crimps to the right of Twas once the way down and zahoot your way up to the slopey ledge above. Cruisy top out for your efforts.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CyN8MfuLR7q/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Start as for 'Hellbows' but head up with some sneaky beta and then left across some chossy crimps before getting reach solid rock again. Easy top out from there.

Start on good holds. Traverse right along the lip then mantle the ledge and climb to the top of the boulder.

Sit start on jug and follow natural line to the right to reach juggy pocket and easy top out.

Peter Crane's boulder that starts at the jug for "Ride the Saddle, Extended" but goes to the right, along the seam.

To NE of Hidden In Plain View, between slopey rocks and face with cracks. Up obvious crack and up lodged, juggy rock slices.

Up obvious crack to R of the convenient bail-tree into engaging climbing with good hands and fists. Good intro to jamming.

Climb the perfect finger crack using locks and lie back technique. Located uphill of boulder #19 as listed in the Peter Crane topo.

Stand start with obvious side pull, compressing the arete. When the blankness hits, think “light” thoughts.

Sit start this unique looking problem, unlocking a way upwards.

Kieran Pates

Needs a re-grade as most of the problem is on the ground now- if there is even a problem here anymore

The high slab on the boulder directly facing All or Nothing. Start up vertical seam then up and left to a high topout. One of the best problems anywhere.

In the words of the genre-bending Canadian indie rock band Arcade Fire, ‘wake up.’ Stand start as for “Pucker up”. After the vertical crack, gaining the jug half way- move straight up to thin edges (instead of going left) - topping out directly upwards.

Climb the sharp arete with tricky mantle and awkward footholds.

This problem is located on the Boulder behind and to the right of “All or Nothing” boulders. Stand start with high, blob crimp LH, and high obvious RH sidepull feature- with nonexistent feet. Big pulls creeping up over the bulge defines this problem on solid stone. Named after the recent fire that engulfed Passchendaele and also the feeling of working too much.

Ascend the obvious open book corner and crack. Careful with the fern growing out of the crack up high

In the “alley” directly behind “Burn Out” Boulder. Stand start at the start of the crack, and up and over the bulge.

Stand start with use of the detached rock, with high crimps and figure out the puzzle up the cool cracked, bulgy face to a committing, intense mantle. Thoughtful stacking of pads are needed for the tilted landing.

Left of “All Gas, No Brakes”. Stand start with your choice of crimps and get schwifty.

Slow down, chill out and pump the brakes. Stand start with crimps and move up to an engaging mantle.